Smarty, the new CaTCHER tool.

[Bob Wagner]

Rodney, You need to install the driver manually and override the win install help.



Like we spoke about, make sure the driver and updated software versions aer unzipped into new folders.



you have my number if needed

 

[BHight]

Got back on the fourth from a trip to cascade, id. with a big detour to Tendoy, Id. to resque my dad in his VW Jetta gasser.

Ran 400 miles empty (luggage for three) running SW#8 stacked with EZ from home to Cascade,Id. Ranged from 5500 elevation to 4500 elev.

Real twisty roads out of boise traveling hwy 55. Average mileage: 18. 2 mpg.



Flying "detour" to resque dad with a 25' deck-over dovetail tandum single wheel trailer south from Cascade to Banks cutting east from Banks through Stanly to Salmon; south to Tendoy pushing as fast as wildlife(deer) and winding road would let me:

14. 7 mpg.

Long story short: TIG welded oil pan (rock damage from nearby pass), Better relationship building time with my dad, and acts of kindness from Cascade mechanic (Dave) at the local Dodge dealership (nice surprise) on borrowed 1/4" drive 10mm swivel socket for two bolts on oilpan bolts (on the flywheel side. Couldn't get anything else in there!).

The local blacksmith helped out as well, (even on the 3rd. of July!) with the tig job on the pan.

Forgive me for the thread detour. I just realize how off topic I had gotten.

The ending is good though so here it is: Dad made it home safe and everything "fell-into-place" as it were.

Still highly impressed with this smarty and the driveability it delivers.

 

[Fishin Guide]

Today Bob met me at the local dyno for some testing. I have been having low power issues forever and we were doing some diagnostic work.



While the truck is still not making power, or what it should be making, things went okay.



Bob brought a copy of the old "surge" software and I had my updated Smarty.



The runs with both sets of software were virtually identical. The same overall HP and it looked like the graphs had been laid, one on top of the other.



So, WOT is uneffected and the surge I got was only a part throttle thing. No HP change at all.



I will make a few changes and try to find those missing ponies.



Thanks again Bob for taking the time to hang out and watch a truck stand still. I really appreciate it!



Dave

 

[ddunk]

Bob / Marco on smarty switch 1 what do you consider towing to heavy

 

[Mad Bomber]

Today Bob met me at the local dyno for some testing. I have been having low power issues forever and we were doing some diagnostic work.



While the truck is still not making power, or what it should be making, things went okay.



Bob brought a copy of the old "surge" software and I had my updated Smarty.



The runs with both sets of software were virtually identical. The same overall HP and it looked like the graphs had been laid, one on top of the other.



So, WOT is uneffected and the surge I got was only a part throttle thing. No HP change at all.



I will make a few changes and try to find those missing ponies.



Thanks again Bob for taking the time to hang out and watch a truck stand still. I really appreciate it!



Dave

Where did you dyno?

 

[Fishin Guide]

Where did you dyno?

That's a secret.....





Austin Promax

 

[DLBurns]

Turbo huffing

Well the test that Blair and I did towing my fiver seemed to eliminate the turbo huffing when the Smarty was on #3. After the test runs I changed out my 16 cm exhaust housing to a wastegated 14 and was able to build boost to about 32 PSI.

Made the pull over the Siskyou's and the passes at Grants Pass and never got below 51 mph at about 1200 degrees. Water temps got up to about 210 degrees but outside temps were in the mid 40's.

I was thrilled with the way the truck pulled. . only 1 problem, the turbo huffing is back! #@$%!

It is not as bad as it was but still enough that I notice it.

Apparently I am the only Smarty owner having this problem as I have not heard of a solution yet. Is this something I am just going to have to live with?

 

[Nate]

I've never heard of turbo "huffing" Can you explain?

 

[Fishin Guide]

Well the test that Blair and I did towing my fiver seemed to eliminate the turbo huffing when the Smarty was on #3. After the test runs I changed out my 16 cm exhaust housing to a wastegated 14 and was able to build boost to about 32 PSI.

Made the pull over the Siskyou's and the passes at Grants Pass and never got below 51 mph at about 1200 degrees. Water temps got up to about 210 degrees but outside temps were in the mid 40's.

I was thrilled with the way the truck pulled. . only 1 problem, the turbo huffing is back! #@$%!

It is not as bad as it was but still enough that I notice it.

Apparently I am the only Smarty owner having this problem as I have not heard of a solution yet. Is this something I am just going to have to live with?

To me, after all your explanations, it sounds fuel related.



I haven't gone back and reread your posts. But, have you checked the overflow valve?



Dave

 

[DLBurns]

???

To me, after all your explanations, it sounds fuel related.



I haven't gone back and reread your posts. But, have you checked the overflow valve?



Dave

Overflow valve?? on the fuel tank?

Nothing is amiss there.

I also am inclined to believe that it is fuel related... when I get on the loud pedal is when I get the huffing.



Can't believe no ones had this issue but me!

 

[Fishin Guide]

Overflow valve?? on the fuel tank?

Nothing is amiss there.

I also am inclined to believe that it is fuel related... when I get on the loud pedal is when I get the huffing.



Can't believe no ones had this issue but me!

The overflow valve is on the front of the VP and is what holds some pressure in the VP. I had one go bad and it caused all kinds of driveability issues. I would pull it out and check it with regulated air. I believe the manual has a test procedure.



Dave

 

[RCenters]

Iv been having some issues with defueling from the Smarty , even with the new update it still shuts off the fuel under hard acceleration , take example 4th gear floor it and fuels hard change to 5th and it almost dies no fuel at all go down to 4th floor it no fuel cut the switch off and back on then get into and it starts fueling . . another example 4th gear 40lbs i hit the NOS boots climbs to 50 then defuels , basicaly no fuel at all it may see 20lbs when in this mode once its in this mode only way to clear it is to cut off the engine ,



At first we though the pump so i took the smarty out and it ran find no issues , but i went ahead and put a new pump on and it still done this



any ideas ???



my fuel system is 160 GPH pump 1/2 line to the VP and i run 22 psi

 

[JR2]

I think it sounds like you are running out fuel, maybe a weak VP44??

 

[DLBurns]

The overflow valve is on the front of the VP and is what holds some pressure in the VP. I had one go bad and it caused all kinds of driveability issues. I would pull it out and check it with regulated air. I believe the manual has a test procedure.



Dave

First I have heard of that. I have not had any driveability issues at all. The FASS maintains a rock steady 15psi under hard acceleration. I can hear the turbo huff when the truck shifts from 3rd to 4th? The low end response that the Smarty gives is awesome, just don't know if it's worth grenading a turbo.

 

[Fishin Guide]

First I have heard of that. I have not had any driveability issues at all. The FASS maintains a rock steady 15psi under hard acceleration. I can hear the turbo huff when the truck shifts from 3rd to 4th? The low end response that the Smarty gives is awesome, just don't know if it's worth grenading a turbo.

I can maintain 20 psi with the overflow valve out and vented to atmosphere. So, if the valve is in constant bypass, the VP is not retaining any fuel internally. The fuel pressure that we all see is resistance to flow at the snout of the pump.



So again, I would do the FREE check of the overflow valve. I have 20 PSI showing all the time and whent he overflow went bad, the driveability sucked.



Do what you will with the information. if it checks out, then fine. At leasst you have ruled it out.



Dave

 

[IC Smoke]

*question*

How well will the smarty work with a TWIN TURBO setup? Im thinking of the smarty then twins for the rig. Any pros/cons to SMARTY/TWIN setup?



BTW Bob, I was able to borrow the SMARTY from DieselMinded at IRP... WOW!!!!



Ian

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

On another issue, since swapping in a new VP-44 a month or so back, I've been treading lightly upon the new pump until it's internals all get better acquainted.



Consequently, tho' I did pierce the pump wire for use with my Comp while I had the new pump still on the bench for easy access, it's never yet been connected - just running in "EZ" mode.



With the Comp set on 1x3, and Smarty on program #2, the truck runs GREAT, plenty of power under all road and grade situations empty or towing out 5th wheel - and hardly any visible smoke. Going on up to 3x3 on the Comp gets noticeably better power, throttle response and as much smoke as my conscience allows.



With the excellent performance available under current conditions, I'm not very motivated to hook up that VP-44 wire... :-laf :-laf

 

[Boondocker]

So Gary, if the pump wire is not connected, how can there be a difference between 1x3 and 3x3 on the Comp? It's a trick question The way to set up your Comp with no wire tap is to set the main and sub levels the same (1x1, 2x2, 3x3, 4x4, 5x5). That gives you easy adjustability between sub levels, which is all an un-tapped Comp allows.



Neil

 

[Fishin Guide]

*question*

How well will the smarty work with a TWIN TURBO setup? Im thinking of the smarty then twins for the rig. Any pros/cons to SMARTY/TWIN setup?



BTW Bob, I was able to borrow the SMARTY from DieselMinded at IRP... WOW!!!!



Ian

it works just as well or better than in a single setup. SW#9 (Catcher) was a little twitchy to me with a small single. A bigger single may not be as bad. I love it with the twins!



I drive 95% of the time on sticks and the Smarty.





Dave

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

So Gary, if the pump wire is not connected, how can there be a difference between 1x3 and 3x3 on the Comp? It's a trick question The way to set up your Comp with no wire tap is to set the main and sub levels the same (1x1, 2x2, 3x3, 4x4, 5x5). That gives you easy adjustability between sub levels, which is all an un-tapped Comp allows.



Neil

Neil, I'm no expert on the Comp in EZ mode - and keep hearing conflicting info on use of sub-levels when using one that way. I haven't fully experimented with each of the settings and sub-levels - just tried a few, and then stuck with the ones mentioned, since those settings when combined with the Smarty, seem to cover all my own various truck uses quite well.



Even without use of the VP-44 wire, I'm fully sold on the use of the Comp and Smarty as a fully compatible "team" - together, they deliver all the in-cab, on-the-run flexibility and adjustability I could ever ask for.