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Sport Headlight Conversion (lots of photos)

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Wanting to possible sell 98, 12 valve

53 block

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Since Gary brought it up, one of my pet peeves. Why did Dodge tint the reverse lights? Stuuuuuuupid! :rolleyes:



In my case,since we RV quite a bit using our 5er, the need for best possible backup lights was even more critical, for backing into narrow and curved RV spaces after dark. In addition to the better backup lights I installed, I also added a set of below-the-bumper Halogen bulbed lights that are relay operated along with the regular backup bulbs in the new lights - they work great, lots of bright backup lighting now:



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Gary, I plow my mother's and my own driveways and added lights to my '95 gasser and '97 CTD so I could see backing up. Sucks without them, that's for sure!
 
In my case,since we RV quite a bit using our 5er, the need for best possible backup lights was even more critical, for backing into narrow and curved RV spaces after dark. In addition to the better backup lights I installed, I also added a set of below-the-bumper Halogen bulbed lights that are relay operated along with the regular backup bulbs in the new lights - they work great, lots of bright backup lighting now



To solve the backing issues with my fifth wheel, I bought some offroad lights at walmart and mounted them on the front of the trailer facing to the rear. I use a relay triggered by the backup wire in the 7pin plug to activate them. I also have a switch on the trailer to turn them on once disconnected from the truck in case we need light while setting up. Just another way to solve the same issue.
 
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To solve the backing issues with my fifth wheel, I bought some offroad lights at walmart and mounted them on the front of the trailer facing to the rear. I use a relay triggered by the backup wire in the 7pin plug to activate them. I also have a switch on the trailer to turn them on once disconnected from the truck in case we need light while setting up. Just another way to solve the same issue.

Great idea!
 
So, getting ready to do the upgrade on my '01 2500. Craig (Firefighter_2000) is building the wiring harness for me, so I need to get busy and order the lights. Has anybody found there to be an appreciable difference between the lights from Genos, those from Ebay, or the OEMs? There are obviously price differences, but without seeing them side-by-side, it's hard to tell what, if anything, is different. Have to rely on the extensive knowledge/experience of you guys!
 
So, getting ready to do the upgrade on my '01 2500. Craig (Firefighter_2000) is building the wiring harness for me, so I need to get busy and order the lights. Has anybody found there to be an appreciable difference between the lights from Genos, those from Ebay, or the OEMs? There are obviously price differences, but without seeing them side-by-side, it's hard to tell what, if anything, is different. Have to rely on the extensive knowledge/experience of you guys!

I have the same concern ... ... . OEM are probably the best but would like to save a little bit of money if I can without having to replace them again in six months.
 
Oem are better for sure however they were more than dobule the price and more like triple at least when I was looking. I ended up using the depos and so far so good after a few years.
 
buy the depo's ... but buy the better bulbs Daniel suggests, I tossed in the new depo's they came with bulbs and thought wow sure are great and bought the bulbs Daniel suggests after reading his post on them... . well due to them being a pita to change in the truck I put it off installing the bulbs an drove 2 yrs like that, I finally changed the bulbs this fall and was shocked how much better the lights are with quality bulbs, highly suggest doing the bulbs right out of the gate.
 
Hello All,



I bought the cable harness from firefighter_2000 and Sport lights from eBay, with bulbs. Loosened the 8 bolts on the bumper and released the plastic holding devices on the plastic part of the bumper. Installed both lights and routed wires and install the jumper for the fog lights. All went easy.



Early this morning (while dark), I parked the truck about 15 feet from the garage door, turned on the low beams and put duct tape on the garage at the top of the light pattern. Installed the lights and harness and in the evening adjusted the low beam light pattern to the duct tape on the garage door, without moving the truck all day.



My only question is - the glass on these new lights gets really hot. Will see how this play out over time.



Here is my concern - I polished the fog lights with 500 then 800 them 3000 grit and then a rubbing compound. Lens are crystal clear. Next had some "XPEL" - 30mm clear film applied the surface for protection. What happens if the XPEL is applied the new Sport lights?!?!?!?!?



18mm deep well was perfect for loosening the bumper.



The Fog light jumper has a simple explanation. 3 to 5 is a normally close circuit, so just remove the relay and install the jumper to close the circuit.



Firefighter_2000 is a genius and I truly appreciate his expertise in building a very nice cable set.



Oo.
 
Well it is time for me to eat a little crow on this issue. I defended the headlights conversion I bought on craigslist that came with a conversion harness. All in I was at $160 for both sides. I started having trouble with my headlight switch and realized the factory switch connector melted at the harness and almost started a fire. This was running only low beams and not hi and low together. I fixed the harness and got with Daniel Stern who was very helpful and bought a harness. the connectors and relays are all top quality but the harness looks like it is made out of residential Romex and not nearly as clean as Fireman 2000 (which I didn't see until just now. I now recant my statement that the harness that converts the single light to the dual sport light is sufficient and highly recommend the relay style harnesses.

I apologize to anyone who took advice from my original posts.
 
The issue with the headlamp switch is not new or isolated to just the headlight conversion. The trucks with the trailer tow package don't typically have this issue but once a trailer was added and trailer lights were tapped off of the rear taillights on the truck, then the draw on the factory headlamp switch was too much and this would also result in a melted or failed switch. This is not even talking about headlights, just trailer lights. My point is to illustrate the fact that the switch is not great.
With that said, your harness would have needed to have a relay added to draw from the battery and only use the factory headlight switch as a signal wire to the relay to prevent the switch failure.
I got lazy when I did mine and just bought the lamps and brite box from Geno's and I am glad I did, the lights on my 18 yr old truck are brighter than my new Challenger's.
 
Well it is time for me to eat a little crow on this issue. I defended the headlights conversion I bought on craigslist that came with a conversion harness. All in I was at $160 for both sides. I started having trouble with my headlight switch and realized the factory switch connector melted at the harness and almost started a fire. This was running only low beams and not hi and low together. I fixed the harness and got with Daniel Stern who was very helpful and bought a harness. the connectors and relays are all top quality but the harness looks like it is made out of residential Romex and not nearly as clean as Fireman 2000 (which I didn't see until just now. I now recant my statement that the harness that converts the single light to the dual sport light is sufficient and highly recommend the relay style harnesses.

I apologize to anyone who took advice from my original posts.
Lol rookie mistake
 
I've had the Depo Sport lights and SUVLights harness for a couple of years now, and here's my experience, in rough chronological order:

One parking/signal light started filling with water very soon after installation. Drilled drain holes in the bottom.

Crap Chinese bulbs (every one of them) failed quickly.

Crap Chinese relays failed periodically (eventually all of them) not long after.

Crap Chinese relay holders (some of them) corroded into uselessness or melted.

One headlight gets condensation inside.

Crap Chinese fuses failed (2 of 4), one melted (didn't blow) and one's plastic body came off the metal conductor (also didn't blow).

Crap Chinese fuse holder (one) melted along with fuse.



In researching my next steps, I contacted Daniel Stern. He said as far as lighting goes, the factory sport lights are definitely better than standard, although far from the greatest headlights in the world. But all the aftermarket ones he's seen do a crap job of illuminating, not to mention the other issues they may have (water intrusion, etc).

Several years ago I saw a website documenting the home-build of housings to support Hella projector assemblies in a Taurus SHO, iirc. I'll add the link here soon. I think I'm going to gut my sport lights and try to build in a set of quality projectors, then build (or have an expert build) a harness to feed them. I'll post all the details in a new thread when (if) I get it going.

later
kevin
 
I too had the SUV Lights harness. It was poorly built, with less than adequate parts. The harnesses I build use much better quality parts. Mine are designed heavier duty and much better quality.
 
I really need to do this conversion soon, as I have moved out to the country and drive some very winding roads at night. I greatly respect all of you mechanically/electrically inclined folks out there who are doing this yourselves. I am so lost on all of this talk of relays and amps and testing and wiring harness hookups. I wish I could take a class to learn this stuff or apprentice with someone in order to become a little more handy/educated.

As it stands now, I'll just have to hire this job out like everything else on this truck (except oil changes! I can do these!)
Cheers gentlemen.
 
I really need to do this conversion soon, as I have moved out to the country and drive some very winding roads at night. I greatly respect all of you mechanically/electrically inclined folks out there who are doing this yourselves. I am so lost on all of this talk of relays and amps and testing and wiring harness hookups. I wish I could take a class to learn this stuff or apprentice with someone in order to become a little more handy/educated.

As it stands now, I'll just have to hire this job out like everything else on this truck (except oil changes! I can do these!)
Cheers gentlemen.

If you order the brite box and the sport lights from Geno's garage, other than cutting the fender behind the light if your year needs it, the rest is plug and play. I love it.
 
Thanks for the info Surfbeetle. I'm feeling a little more confident about this one after doing more research. I'm gonna go the Geno's route.
 
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