2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Stabilizer Bar Frame Bushing Broke Bolt

[KBrennan]

I was installing my new BD Stearing Box Stabilizer and snapped the heads off the two lower bolts that hold the satibilizer bushings against the frame. Has anyone ran into this and how did you fix it?

 

[dknoch]

I had this happen to me just a couple weeks ago so it is still fresh in my mind. I attempted to drill the bolts out and re tap the thread but i didn't drill very straight. So from there, I opened the hole up to 3/8 or 7/16, I can't remember. Now came the tricky part, using a old metal coat hanger, I bent a 'U' shape in the end to hold the a new grade 8 bolt and washer tight enough so it would not fall, but loose enough that it would come off with some force once in the hole. I accessed the bolt hole by using the square hole just forward of the incident that the bumper support attaches to. I was actually able to get a socket with a crows foot on the bolt head from there with the bumper bracket and bolt insert removed. Pain in the butt but it worked. You may consider wrapping the bolt and tools with a small piece of string incase it gets away. I also recommend safety glasses since I spent that night in the ER getting metal parts removed from my eye. Good Luck!

Dan Knoch

 

[DSeamans]

Bolts

There is a fairly easy fix. Hold a nut were it broke and weld it to the bolt. The nut doesn't actually have to touch the nut and a cheap mig works great. The heat from welding expands the bolt and when it cools it comes out easy. An old welding shop teacher showed me that trick when I broke some exhaust manifold bolts off a aluminum head. I have done it many times. If you don't have a mig, maybe a fellow TDR member has on nearby. Otherwise rental places usually have them.



Dave

 

[KBrennan]

Both are good ideas. I have drilled out one bolt to the point I can just see the threads. It is a straight drill so i am now going to try and use a tap and work out the rest of the bolt remains and hopefuly save the threads of the nut that is welded to the frame.

 

[Arctic Taco]

If you can find some Kano Labs penetrating oil- Aero-Kroil in a spray can, and spary it on the threads and let it set for awhile- may help after you use either idea to remove the bolts- that stuff is amazing

 

[KBrennan]

Quick update: I drilled it out and was almoste perfectly straight. I ran a tap in it and bolted the bad oy back down. it torqued ok with no proble. have put about 200 miles on it since and is still good.



Thanks everyone.

 

[DIESELWRKS]

Quick update: I drilled it out and was almoste perfectly straight. I ran a tap in it and bolted the bad oy back down. it torqued ok with no proble. have put about 200 miles on it since and is still good.



Thanks everyone.

good to hear your back on the road.

 

[dknoch]

Well, You drill straighter than I do! Glad to hear you are up and running!

 

[KBrennan]

Thanks everyone. The front end is almost complete with the new coil springs, tie rods, BD Track Bar, and BD steering box stabilizer. Next year new control arms, steering box, steering shaft, hubs, ball joints, rotors, calipers and flex brake lines and that should be it for the front end. Will also be replacing the Turbo, VP44 intercooler inlet and out let boots and intake elbow. Of course if I win the lottery it will get done sooner. 

 

[MChrist]

I second the welding trick, I've used that in the past with 100% success!!! The welding action also heats the bolt cherry red, which makes it expand into the old threads. Then, as it cools, the bolt shrinks a little which makes it even easier to remove. Everybody here should try it at least once to see how slick this actually works. Last week, I had to do this to a bolt that was snapped off 1/2 inch into the hole, so I kept tacking small dabs of weld onto the bolt until the metal stuck out a little, then welded a nut to that, waited for it to cool and it backed out with a hand wrench!! Very slick!