Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Sticking Gov Arm?

[JGrover]

Its happened last year. Lost some boost. Usually hit 32 psi at 1800/2000 pulling big hills at maybe 1/2 throttle.

Then one day, I have to scream the motor 2500 rpm to get the same boost. Or at 1800 rpm pulling heavy, Was only getting like 24psi boost. Used to get 32 psi. Then truck fixed itself, Thought I had a stuck throttle when the fuel plate started working properly. (That was with the banks plate)Noticed the Banks big head wastegate is set for 42 psi. (Stamped on it)

Now I have the #10 plate. First installed was hitting over 42 psi way to easy. Started cranking down the star wheel, readjusted the wastegate, and opened up the tst boost elbow to get the boost down. It worked, 36 psi maybe 38psi at 3/4 throttle pulling big hills. 36 psi@1800 rpm 1100egts pulling 9k boat up big hills. Was very happy.

Now im back to screaming the motor 3000 rpm empty to get only 34psi. Cranked in the boost elbow, and two turns out on the wastegate arm. No change. Pulling my 9k boat up big hills@ 1800 rpm only getting 26 psi boost 1200egt. Does not mater if im at 1/4 throttle or Full throttle. Boost will not go up. It takes mostly RPM to get boost up. At 2000rpm getting 30psi 1300egt 70mph big hills with boat.

This sound like stuck gov arm not moving on fuel plate ramp? Or maybe the starwheel is cranked in to tight? Pushing the airline going into the afc houseing to far, Can that cutoff air flow? Causeing the Gov arm/fuel plate not to work properly? For a mechanical truck, these things can be a pain in the rear Got that Banks Twin Ram Manifold. Makes it impossible to work on the afc houseing without removing the manifold#@$%!

 

[Missouri Mule]

JGrover,the star wheel only helps out low rpm fueling.

You can check for boost leak to rule that out, fuel pressure test to rule out bad fuel pump, bad/stuck overflow valve (return fuel valve).

Could be something wrong with injection pump.

 

[Howard Durand]

Sounds more like a leaking boost system. As far as the twin ram setup goes, it is a royal pain but you can work without removing it. Remove the two nuts holding the brake master cylinder in place and it can be moved out of the way far enough to get to the AFC fairly easy.

Replace the screws that hold the AFC in place with Allen head screws. Then get a long, T handled allen wrench with a ball tip so you can remove and replace them more easily.

I have seriously considered gettilng rid of the twin ram. I don't think it lives up to the claims that were made to sell it.

 

[JGrover]

Sounds more like a leaking boost system. As far as the twin ram setup goes, it is a royal pain but you can work without removing it. Remove the two nuts holding the brake master cylinder in place and it can be moved out of the way far enough to get to the AFC fairly easy.

Replace the screws that hold the AFC in place with Allen head screws. Then get a long, T handled allen wrench with a ball tip so you can remove and replace them more easily.

I have seriously considered gettilng rid of the twin ram. I don't think it lives up to the claims that were made to sell it.

Talked to Gale Banks in person for 30 mins when I picked up my parts. He showed me around his shop. At that time he was testing the yr 2000 cummins. He had it up to 800 hp. Motor looked like it was going through surgery. All kinds of wires and stuff going into some very fancy testing equip.

The Twin Ram is more for getting air to the #6 cyl. Gale Banks says,#6 cyl runs hotter then the other 5 cyls. Rummer has it, Twin Ram flows good enough to increase boost 2psi? Gale Banks told me his kits are for reliable power. Reading some post on TDR. A few people have cooked the #6 cyl. Was able to get a elbow extension on the cover bolts. wiggled/moved it around a bit. To free up the Gov arm if it was sticking. Found two loose ex manifold bolts. touched 36psi boost.

 

[JGrover]

JGrover,the star wheel only helps out low rpm fueling.

You can check for boost leak to rule that out, fuel pressure test to rule out bad fuel pump, bad/stuck overflow valve (return fuel valve).

Could be something wrong with injection pump.

Fuel pressure was 20psi@idle and 26psi@2000 if my memory serves me correctly. If it is a boost leak, May be the bolt/nut for the intake/heater grid.

The stud started turning when I tryed snugging down the heater cable. May have developed a small air leak. Was getting due for new ceramic washers/ stud,etc. Had a little corrosion in there. That was last year

 

[Missouri Mule]

JGrover, which side of the fuel filter did you take the fuel pressure test from.

If taken from the outlet(line going to injector pump) your at minimum. If it was taken at supply line(line going into fuel filter) your under minimum.

Minimum fuel pressure at supply line is 25 psi. The difference between both sides cannot exceed a 5 psi difference.

 

[JGrover]

JGrover, which side of the fuel filter did you take the fuel pressure test from.

If taken from the outlet(line going to injector pump) your at minimum. If it was taken at supply line(line going into fuel filter) your under minimum.

Minimum fuel pressure at supply line is 25 psi. The difference between both sides cannot exceed a 5 psi difference.

Fuel pressure was at 16@idle/26@2500rpm (At the pump)

Stretched out the overflow spring. Now at 27@idle/fuel gauge over 30psi@2500rpm. Turbo Boost only 30psi@3000rpm.

Have one loose intake preheater stud. May lose boost there. But getting 30psi boost, #10 fuel plate should be working. 30psi@3000rpm 1200egts and no smoke. I think a fully operating #10 plate would smoke at 30psi:confused

 

[JGrover]

Shes fixed. Pulled everthing apart, Checked everything, Moved the #10 plate just shy of full forward. Put her back together.

Test run, 2/3 throttle@2600rpm 48psi boost@1200egts

Time to hook up to the boat again

 

[DerekW]

awsome i love these old 12 valve stories since i was never got to fart around with old school stuff. only newer electronic stuff. I wouldnt even know what to do with those one of them with a problem except load it up on the rollback and haul it 3 hours to NGM Diesel.