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Stock Turbo W/16cm2 Housing

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Well, egt's are out of control #ad

Looking to go to the 16cm2 #ad

You can check my sig. for the Bombs.
I got on a dynojet and found that my hp is at 358hp.
I was curious what you guys that are in my hp range(and rising)are seeing with the 16cm2???
Whats the lag like?
How much did the egt's go down?

P. S. Does anyone have one that they don't need anymore?

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95' 2500 standard trans. 2wd reg cab 125,000 miles.
TST #4 plate kit, 370 Diamond B injectors, Afc spring kit, Gov. spring kit,TST's fuel pressure adapter and 2 guage pillar mount, SPA EGT/Boost guage. Joe D's Sachs clutch is in.
 
MDW:

You and I have followed a "parallel path"
on our bombing. I have been interested
in the same answers to your question
for my automatic. It is my understanding
that the manual transmissions respond
better to the housing than the automatics.
I was also told that the housing will
cause more smoke, something I DEFINITELY
don't need.

Guess we will have to see what the
responses are.

Thanks!

--------
John_P.

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Red '96 4x4 2500 Auto 3. 54, TST #5, Major Pump Mods(By "Scheid Diesel") 370 Diamond B Injectors, Gov. Spring kit, AFC Spring kit, Banks Exhaust, Prime Loc, Cummins Chrome Kit, Pro-Torque Converter, BD Valve Body, BD Pressure Loc, Isspro Gauges, Sendel 16" Alum Wheels w/ 33" BFGs
 
MDW
I trying to work something out with Majestic Turbo to bring "show and tell" to the LSTDR meeting. I'll see if they have a 16cm2 laying on one of the shelves. As far as lag goes, they could clip and balance your rotating assembly to just about eliminate it.
 
I've been told by some knowledgeable folks in the R&D world that the 16cm exhaust housing will help lower EGTs about 200 degrees. I've also been told by other development companies that NOTHING is effective in lowering EGTs in the 24-valve to any appreciable level. What's Up? Any real-world testimonials out there for the 24V? Evidently, it seems to be a good EGT-reducing modification for the 12-valvers.

I'm definitely searching for answers here. Has anyone done this "poor boy's" HX-40 to their 24V? The cost is very attractive, if it works. I know the HX-40 will lower EGTs, but I'm not really a racer, I mainly just tow heavy, and happen to enjoy elevated hp levels #ad
In my truck's current trim, it's capable of around 350-375hp (estimated).

For those who have replaced their 12cm housing for the free-er breathing 16cm, does performance suffer much? I expect to loose a bit of bottom end, but I can live with that. I just don't want to loose mid- and upper-range towing capactity/passing power.
 
If you are making that much power,you are beyond the limits of a HX-35 comp. You need a HX-40 to keep up with that kind of air flow. You would pick up at least 25hp with a HX-40.
 
MDW
Try it- You'll like it!! #ad


------------------
Paul A. Schmidt
95, 4X4, SLT 2500, 5 spd. , 4. 10, 270 hp. ,675ft. lb. TST, AFC spring kit,215hp. injectors,16cm2 turbo housing, Pacbrake, Walker muffler,
GearVendor O. D. , CenterForce Dual Friction clutch.
Eastern PA.
 
sport bike what is the limitation HP of the HX35?

Would it be worth sending an HX35 to Majestic Turbo to work their magic?

Ryan
 
Ryan,

A ballpark figure is 350 HP max for the HX-35. But, Ted Jennaty runs 450+ HP with his HX-35. Ted has tired all the turbos & exhaust housings. He likes the HX-35 best.

Would I sent an HX-35 to Majestic? I wouldn't bother. They will balance & lighten the turbine wheel for quicker spool up. The HX-35 spools up quick stock.

Here is a chart from Holset. Its a low rpm Diesel, million mile between overhauls chart. VERY conservative at that. I'm not sure if(kw)means HP #ad




[This message has been edited by HEMI®Dart (edited 01-16-2001). ]
 
A HX-35 was designed for 275hp and under trucks. It still works pretty good up to 325hp. After that the turbo is holding you back. I would go with a HX-40 and have it modified to give you quicker spool ups. That way you have a great daily drive that can make good power. If you wanted more power go with a H2E. After that it is hard to get a turbo that can flow enough air to support high hp #,s and still be a good every day driver. All the high tech turbos that I have found so far are no bigger than a H2E. But I haven,t given up yet.

John/SP
 
Hemi,

Do you know what kind of rpms that poor turbo is spinning at to make 450hp. All it is doing is making heat and getting ready to blow up. Ted needs to go back to a HX-40 and get it modified,or live with a little turbo lag.

John/sp
 
Sportbike:

I realize the hx-40 will do a couple of good things: Increase hp and lower EGTs while not hurting driveability. These are great benefits, however, at this point lower EGTs is my main goal, as I can't use the power I'm currently making due to clutch issues (currently using a "mid-level" clutch good for 850 ft lbs [advertised]). To overcome my clutch issues, I'll need to spend $$$$$ for a dual disk or brass puck type clutch, and $$$$$ for an HX-40.

Because the truck is more for family towing purposes than a personal play thing, I can't justify the expense of these two items, and as you have already experienced, they're pricey!! I would LOVE to plop down the cash to get a Superclutch and a Superturbo and start enjoying all the power the Red Sled has to offer, but right now, it's not in my future.

So, with only EGTs in mind, is the 16cm non-wastegated housing a mistake? It's about 1/5 the cost of an HX-40.
 
Anybody have any first hand info on Dave Mitchel's new M11 Turbo? How does it compare to the HX40?

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1998 2500 Quad Cab, 12V, 5spd, 4x4, HD Transfer Case, 370HP Diamond B Injectors, #4 TST, 16cm2 Housing, AFC Spring Kit, BD Governor Spring Kit and other governor modifications, Walker Muffler, 285/75-16 BFG AT's, Stainless Steel Tube Steps, Reese Fifth Wheel Hitch, Leather, CD, LSD Dana 80 Rear, 60 Front, Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch, Rancho RS9000 Shocks, Rancho Steering Stabilizer, ATS Exhaust Manifold, Psychotty Air Induction, BD Exhaust Brake
 
Ross,

Definately install the bigger exhaust housing. The 16cm2 housing should drop your EGT's about 200 degrees. Maybe more.

See the thread in the 2nd post.



[This message has been edited by HEMI®Dart (edited 01-16-2001). ]
 
As far as Kw and Hp. 1 Horsepower is equivenent to just under 3/4 Kw (Kilowatt)
I do beleive it is 746 watts/hp to be exact.

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2001 3500 QC 4X4 Cummins H. O. & 6 Speed, Powermax 2 and needing more power!!!!
 
HemiDart:

Thanks. I think I'll get one ordered. When I tow, I tow a lot: Cabover camper plus 24ft horse trailer. Combined, I tip the scales at over 23,000 lbs, fully loaded, plus the cabover acts like a sail and really catches the wind. I can run as fast as I want, but that takes lots of fuel & boost, and the high drive pressure of my 12cm turbo is causing 1100 degree EGTs to top small hills. I can top even the large hills at high speeds (80+), but my temps get out of hand (1400+). So at this time, I just slow down. #ad
I don't like slowing down! Especially when I have the power available! #ad
#ad
I love passing lightly loaded PSDs going up hills when my rig is twice as long and twice as heavy! You should see the looks on their faces. It's very, very fun!

[This message has been edited by Ross (edited 01-16-2001). ]
 
Ross,

I didn,t care for the 16cm housing. I think the HX-40 was more drivable. If you have to chose,the clutch is more important.


The M11 turbo is a HX-55 22cm housing. It flows 100 more cfm than a H2E. HX-55W#3592778 would be a better choice because it uses a 19cm housing.
 
Thanks to all for the lesson on turbos, especially Hemi and Sport Bike.

It looks like I might be able to stay with the HX35 after the mods. I just don't want to shell out the coin on a HX40. I think I seen around 7 bills for one. That kind of money buys lots of other BOMBing goodies.

Thanks Again,
Ryan
 
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