Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Stripped Oil Pan ... I think

[Forrest]

I can't seem to tighten it all the way. At least I'm nervous about tightening it any more.



I've tried to find a 1st oversize, self tapping oil drain bolt, but no luck locally.



Any ideas?





Thanks

 

[rjones]

MIGHT WANT TO HIT THE GENOS GARAGE WEB SIGHT AND GET A NEW PLUG... HE HAS MANY TO CHOOSE FROM... .

 

[HEMI®Dart]

How about a good high quality rubber expansion plug?

 

[Forrest]

rjones - Great idea. I ordered a drain plug from Genos, that doesn't have to be removed. They suggested JB Weld. I called the JB Weld folks & they suggested Acetone to clean the threads, apply the JB Weld, WD40 the threads on the drain plug so that the drain plug can be removed, thread it in place & leave it for 24 hours. Then go back & torque it down & add oil. They also recommended roughing up the threads so as to bond the JB weld better.



Now that's if you want to remove the plug. I'm considering roughing up the threads of the Genos plug & JB'ing that mutha in place.





HEMI - Thanks ... if there was something that would reach in & squeeze the inner & outer surfaces & hold in place ...

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

WHOA!!!



The threads on the pan's reinforcement are numerous and large diameter, fine thread. It's very unlikely you stripped them unless you gorilla installed the plug with cross-threading. It's far more likely the thin flange on the stock plug is weakening, cracking, and will creak off. It can just barely stand the 44 ft lb spec. Check the plug carefully.

 

[jimk]

Originally posted by Forrest

I can't seem to tighten it all the way. At least I'm nervous about tightening it any more.



I've tried to find a 1st oversize, self tapping oil drain bolt, but no luck locally.



Any ideas?





Thanks

I had the same thing happen to me and it turned out to be a bad drain plug. The head pulled off the threads, it felt like soft threads, at first. I machined off the head and welded a nut on the threads with 7018. The nut is larger to make it easer to weld also. I use anti- seize ever time on the threads and washer. good luck. JimK

 

[baby.driver]

Better listen to Joe

Sounds a lot like you're jumping the gun big time here.

 

[mschoenheider]

When I purchased my truck used, it had a small leak from the drain plug. I tightened the plug about a quarter turn, and the flange cracked right off. I got a new drain plug from Dodge for $8 and all was well. Check the plug before you put JB weld up there.

Mark

 

[Forrest]

... thanks much.



I'll yank it & see if I can see a crack or deformation. I find it hard to believe that it's the threads. Someone would have posted the fact earlier. Removing & putting in the drain plug has been solid as a rock. No slop, straight in every time.

 

[baby.driver]

I had that problem. The previous owner did something that scratched the sealing surface on the pan.

Here is what I did.

Bought a new plug and took it to a machine shop. They charged me $20 to turn down the outer diameter . 240" and radius the edge.

Now it is the same diameter as the stock Cummins plug and works perfect without all that tightening of the stock Dodge plug.

With my new and improved drain plug those washers last multiple changes also.



Hope this helped.

Jay

 

[Forrest]

Ye ol' cheap a$$ drain plug trick The top of the plug is concave. Yep, could see it before removal. The undeside has a crack all the way around.



Better than stripped threads.



Thanks for all the posts. I'm trying to get pictures posted now.