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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Suggestions and Opinion for recently modded 12 valve

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Almost 5 years after rolling my beloved 97, ive finally put together the time and resources to build another 12 valve. Listed below under my truck profile are my mods currently. Engine mods were just installed last week by my mechanic, so i havent driven the truck bombed yet. He ordered the injectors and turbo from scheid, and ive yet to find out which specific ones they are. The studs and springs I bought werent installed due to my inability to be vehicleless for longer than a week. Hoping that wasnt a fatal mistake. My mechanic says that depending on where i end up setting the plate or just flat taking it out, will determine how much coal i roll, and where i fall in a hp range between 550-650.



Any suggestions, opinions, or concerns would be greatly appreciated. I know this sort of topic has been discussed a bajillion times before, so i do appreciate any time spent on your part helping out this relative novice.



Thank you,



Miles
 
Take it easy with the RPM's with the 4KGSK and stock springs. The transmission should shift before 3000 RPM but anything over 3K is asking for trouble.
 
Also need to upgrade the valve springs before letting the RPM rip, do intake and exhaust with 60 lbs valve springs.

Unless you're going pretty crazy with it the 3K gov springs are plenty, my '98 pulls strong to 36-3800 and pegs the tach with the 3K springs. The 3K springs are less finicky and have easier driving manners than the 4Ks.
 
Which injection pump do you have? If it is still the 180 HP automatic pump, your engine is likely not over 450 HP at the wheels. If it has been changed to a 215 HP pump, you could be around 550 HP. If the injector's holes are too big, it will hurt power rather than help. The turbo could be “anything” so I cannot comment on whether it is sized well for the power you want.
 
joe,



i have the 180 pump. the plate is set at 15. 5 mm, which he says will allow the pump to flow 400 cc. he says that with the plate full forward at 16. 5 mm it will flow 425 cc and with the plate out it will flow 550 cc. would i realize any power gains if i moved or removed the plate? the truck feels stronger than my old 97 with 370s, 191s, 3k springs, and holset super 40, but not any 200 hp stronger. Left wanting more to register on the seat o' the pants meter...
 
Depends on what plate you have now; TST #4 or #5 will be good. Even if the pump flows 400 cc, your injectors probably don't. If they atomize the fuel well, they certainly don't.
 
You do realize what others have spent to slide over the 500rwhp range right?.



What I mean by that is this... .

A 180 pump motor with no other mods than a plate addition,injectors and turbo and timing at 16. 5 degrees will not slip you over the 500 mark. It would probably be a strong 400-450 truck but IMO it would be on the ragged edge of pushing the headgasket out due to the added fuel,timing and air. That doesn't mean you can not drive it for a while nor does it mean your in danger of the gasket blowing,but,lessons learned by many says it will so prepare for it now.



550-650 will take alot more than minor over the counter tweaks and pump work and a decent sized charger or twin chargers.



Old school thought with our trucks are 1cc per hp with a single charger and 1. 5hp per cc with twins.
 
I got my 1997 over 600 HP in 2001, and to 633 HP a bit later. These numbers were on the 215 HP pump with custom balancing of the barrels, about 18. 5 degrees timing, my own torque plate and AFC work, a custom camshaft, ported head, HX55 turbocharger (I wouldn't use that today, I'd go for the BD twins), and custom made Diesel Dynamics injectors.
 
So then i must ask the obvious question... . What do i have to do to hit the 600ish i'm looking for????



Have a deep wallet,loads of time to tune the truck and have plenty of patience... ... ...
 
So then i must ask the obvious question... . What do i have to do to hit the 600ish i'm looking for????



What are you doing that you want 600hp at the wheels?



Also you have to have a very built transmission to handle all of that power as I am learning. I have a 96 180hp pump with #100 plate, rack plug, 4k gsk and valve springs, ground AFC, overflow valve and timing at 15. 5 deg. The truck drive great on the street but when I got out into the sand dunes the oe equivalent clutch did not hold up and now I am ordering a 500rwhp clutch kit.



Before you keep throwing money at the motor consider the rest of it from the flywheel/flex plate to the tires.
 
Looks i better get serious about asking for some overtime then. Get my valve springs and head studs put in, comp. pump, ddp stage 4 injectors, twins, cam, and fire ringed head is what it sounds like I'm gonna be needing. transmission better be solidified. Spent 7500 on a dave goerend transmission. Billet throughout along with all the upgrades that come standard.
 
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