Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Swapping Injector Pump, have ?????

[JBodenhamer]

Thanks in advance for any help. I am a pretty good mechanic but have not done an injector pump before, so I have a few questions.



My truck is a 2001 automatic, and I have purchased a new injector pump from Midwest Injection and also got the FASS DDRP pump to install at the same time.

I have read all the directions and got the necessary 19mm crow foot and stubby wrench to help out with the fuel lines. I have the rest of the tools I need for the job.



Considering the above, I have the following questions:

1. For the puller, I can get a couple different ones via rental at Oreily here, but I am concerned about the bolts going into the drive gear. I think they are M8, but I want to get good ones to prevent breakage. What size are these bolts(both thread and good length to use).



2. My kit came with no banjo washers. I went to the local cummins dealer here in Austin and got all of them I need. I assume re-using old banjo washers is a bad idea.



3. The directions describe bleeding the injectors after I install the new pump. Do I just leave the intake horn off and crack the lines at all the injectors, then crank the engine? I assume that with the lines loose, not enough pressure will build to actually fire the injector and cause the engine to start? Is this correct? How long should I crank the engine to bleed the injectors properly?



4. My pump came with a new woodruff key installed, which surprised me. Should I go ahead and use this one or take the one out of the old pump and install it in the new one? I was surprised by this. Also, the key is higher on the small side of the taper(nearer the threads) than the taller side, which I guess means it is installed with the top horizontal with the center-line of the pump shaft and not parallel to the taper of the shaft nose. Is this correct too?



Any other advice for those of you with experience with this job? I am afraid of somehow dropping the key into the gear case or messing up the key and having bad timing more than any other potential problem, but I only know what I have read in directions and in the posts here that I have searched since I got my dead pedal codes a few weeks ago on the way home from a trip. So far it is still running, but I want to get this fix done before it totally fails and leaves me stranded.



Thanks again for the advice and help.



Jon

 

[DLausche]

Sounds like you are on the right track here.



1) Sorry, I can't help with the puller bolts or size/length.



2) Yes, the banjo bolt washers should be replaced every time. I have reused them in some cases if they are fairly new still. Do not over tighten them or you can create a leak or break the banjo bolt.



3) Put the whole thing back together completely - including the air horn and tighten all injector lines. It helps to have an assistant when bleeding the lines. Loosen two lines slightly (loosen 1/4 to 1/2 turn most) where they connect to the head/crossover tube. It does not matter which two. I think the second and the 4th from the front are easy if I recall correctly. After they are loose, have your helper bump the starter once or twice and then let the lift pump build up pressure. Leave it run the full 25 seconds a few times. This should get fuel going into the new pump. After this, have your helper crank the engine over. You will need to crank it for a fair amount of time - maybe a minute or so. Watch the loosened injector fittings. When you see fuel spurting out then tighten that line down. It will start to fire eventually. I think this usually takes about a minute maybe a little less than that as long as your lift pump is supplying decent pressure. Loosen another line at the crossover tube fitting if needed. It will eventually start and run rough. Once it does start and run on it's own it will smooth out pretty quickly. You do not need to bleed all the injectors - only a few so as to get it to fire and run on it's own.



4) You MUST use the new key that came with the new pump because they are matched to the pump. I do not know exactly why but using a different key causes timing problems. If it is already installed then I would not move it - just use it the way it is. Obviously, rotate the engine so the key on the old pump is on the top before removing the gear. Install new pump in exact same position, key on top, with gear in exact same position.

 

[DFerverda]

If the truck is running i would install the fass pump and get it done and the truck running again.
1 M8. 1. 25 x60 (it depends on the puller for the length, you don't want it against the case but close. )

2 I just bought a pump from mid west, they had 4 sealing washers in the return valve bag.

3 Took me about 20 key cycles to get the fuel flowing good, i left 3 injectors cracked open. This is why i think you should have the new pump in and running.

4 Dlausche is right on. When you get the old pump out, do not rotate the taper shaft, you will need to compare for new pump.
Watch this video Diesel Dan really good and good pointers.
YouTube - VP-44 Install and Removal Series 1 of 5
Good luck.

 

[DLausche]

Yea, that is really a good point - get the truck running first with the new FASS. Having good fuel pressure will make it that much easier to get the fuel into the new pump and purge the air in all the lines and such.

 

[Joe Mc]

When I installed my new VP (SO) I left 3 lines cracked at the head, cycled the pusher pump 3 X (jog key to start pump runs abt 45 seconds), when I checked to see if fuel was present at cracked line the head was wet w/fuel. Tightened line nuts and it lit right up! I was surprised it fired so easily but wasn't complaining . . . just remember if you have to crank it a bit don't go longer than 30 seconds of cranking at a time and let it cool down for a minute or two between cranks, you don't want to melt the insulation on the wire to the starter . . . Have fun.

 

[jdooner]

YouTube - VP-44 Install and Removal Series 1 of 5
If this works, maybe it'll help.

 

[JBodenhamer]

Thanks to you folks for the reply and the videos were absolutely great. I got in done this weekend and the truck is running again like a champ. I went ahead and put in a FASS DDRP pump while I was at it and I am very happy with that too. It was actually a lot of fun, though I do not want to do this again any time soon since it cost about $1400 for the parts!

 

[TDeltonto]

quick question how do u release the electrical connector on the back of the vp. i cant get mine to release

 

[BDaugherty]

Pull the "handle" of the connector towards the driver's side. It will actually cause the connector to move backward and then release.