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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) The Search for Max H.P. 24 Valve

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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission no luck finding shocks

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Ray Little at RAYMAC has a nice Titianum retainer , and spring package , it sets up in stock location has around 135# on the seat , and will cover . 550 lift for just under a $1,000
 
Scott ain't running them, so I think mine will be ok. Can't see shelling out $1000 for them, especially if I can make them myself if I have to.
 
if you going to run any real boost ,you will need springs , and the ti retainer is nessary to get the right height , I'm sure that all the front line motor have them, Mine has since day one , but you don't have to lisicen to me ,



what do I know , just giving away a few little secrets ,
 
RDLeader said:
exhaust ports





#ad





RDLeader- I have seen ported cylinder heads on the exhaust side- with not completly round ports... they had alittle "flat floor to them" is there any specific reason for leaving this floor?



Also were any of the exhaust seats in the head pictured cracked ? I assume this was a used head- gasket erosion from heat cycling. .



And let's see what your gonna do for the intake side of the ports... ...
 
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I bought this head as a spare just for o-rings and port /polish job. No cracks in it. I am working on this one while I am driving my stocker. The flats you saw are how it is stock. I ground these out to make a perfect od to match the manifold. It opens it up quite alot. Without cutting the intake plenum off, you cannot do the intake perfect. I did the best I could. Here's a couple more pics. Also I may have something figured out that may help with the intake. Duallie, what did Banks say about theirs?







lapping valves... ... .....





#ad
 
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RD- those are some cool pics-



Banks said they "are probabally couple months away".....



Who knows if we can really-believe them... .



Better hurry up before one gets marketed before theirs... ... ... ... . :D



That's what I'm talking about! Someone not afraid to show some secrets- RDLEADER :p LOOKIN' GOOD!!!
 
RDLeader said:
Without cutting the intake plenum off, you cannot do the intake perfect. I did the best I could. Here's a couple more pics. Also I may have something figured out that may help with the intake. Duallie, what did Banks say about theirs?





That is one of the many reasons for the Ramifold to become a reality! :cool:



RD- If you go on the 24 valve forum and look for thread titled Banks- It talks about exhaust first but someone from Banks gave a reply and I slipped in a question on him!! :-laf





Also on the same forum (24valve) someone started a thread about swapping engines 99 blown replacing w- 00, ;) turns out fellas -that he burnt up the # 6 piston!! :eek: What seems to be the problem there w- # 6?? LACK OF AIR?

HIGHER E. G. T. 's in THAT CYLINDER(6)?



Just my . 02 cents... . :D
 
Just for fun, I blew some air thorugh mine with an air gun. Kinda crude I know, but still yet you can definately tell there is not near as much air going to the back as there is the front. If you just look at where the horn sits, common sense would tell you that it ain't gonna get as much air to the back as it is the front. What I am thinking is a twin ram design for the 24V. Basically, put another stocker type unit towards the back and have the two plumbed together into one at the intake tube. I would think this would help tremendously. This is the route I am going with this head. I am starting on it now.





Roman
 
RDLeader said:
Just for fun, I blew some air thorugh mine with an air gun. Kinda crude I know, but still yet you can definately tell there is not near as much air going to the back as there is the front. If you just look at where the horn sits, common sense would tell you that it ain't gonna get as much air to the back as it is the front. What I am thinking is a twin ram design for the 24V. Basically, put another stocker type unit towards the back and have the two plumbed together into one at the intake tube. I would think this would help tremendously. This is the route I am going with this head. I am starting on it now.





Roman





RD- Before you stress on the Twin-Ram Intake try this-



Look in the plenum around 6 even 3, now put the plenum cover back on- and remember what you seen- THE AIR JUST CAN'T FLOW SMOOTHLY INTO THE PORT OF #6!!! That restriction is what we have to go after-(IMHO). ;) If you put another way for air delivery (i. e. Twin-ram) all that air IS STILL gonna be struggle-ing to feed that 6th cylinder. My only answer would be -



RAMIFOLD!!! :eek:



Thanks for the pics RD! I'm wanting to show-off a couple of my own- But I havnt figured out how to download when replying to thread!! I will post some pics as soon as I figure out HOW TO!!!! (dangit!) :-laf
 
RDLeader said:
Just for fun, I blew some air thorugh mine with an air gun. Kinda crude I know, but still yet you can definately tell there is not near as much air going to the back as there is the front. If you just look at where the horn sits, common sense would tell you that it ain't gonna get as much air to the back as it is the front.

Roman



All these problems with the cracking blocks- they crack BY #6 :rolleyes:



Burnt Pistons- From Lack of Air in That cylinder :rolleyes:



Higher E. G. T. 's in one cylinder compared to others-Lack of air :rolleyes:



The idea is to balance the power output through-out all the cylinders.



And we can't do it with that restriction... ... ...
 
RacinDuallie said:
Also on the same forum (24valve) someone started a thread about swapping engines 99 blown replacing w- 00, ;) turns out fellas -that he burnt up the # 6 piston!! :eek: What seems to be the problem there w- # 6?? LACK OF AIR?

HIGHER E. G. T. 's in THAT CYLINDER(6)?



Just my . 02 cents... . :D



The reason it is so common to lose # 6 is because the lack of coolant flow. There is also a plastic cooling nozzle that shoots oil on the under side of the piston to keep it from melting.



Trashdawg had once address the lack of coolant flow to number 6. I can't remember what he did, but I am going to shoot him a pm to see if he can't explain.





Justin
 
RacinDuallie said:
All these problems with the cracking blocks- they crack BY #6 :rolleyes:



The cracking of the blocks are caused by the block wall being very thin when they casted it. (like 3 mm)



The 56 bock has a much better cast, the wall is like 6 mm thick and I don't know if anyone has ever had a 56 crack on them.
 
RDLeader said:
When I get this twin intake setup finished, where do I get new fuel lines, or bend the existing ones to fit?



I would just bend the old ones.



I saw some lines where a guy took a p7100 and put it on a 24v head. He took the stock VP lines and contorted them to fit on the p pump. It didn't look pretty, but it worked!
 
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