Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) timing

[zack_76401]

anyone know a shop where i can get my timing reset around ogden ut? also about how much should i expect to pay and what change in performance will i see? any inputs appreciated... ...

 

[JGK]

Contact Ken Jones at Diesel Performance of Utah .



-Jay

 

[JGK]

BTW: to answer your other questions...



$, unknown. Sorry.



A little better performance in the upper revs (over 2000). No appreciable loss in the low end, generally.



A little better EGTs.



Perhaps a little better fuel economy, once you learn to keep your foot out of it!



Let Ken guide you.



-JK

 

[wsmalley]

Gettin your timing changed usually depends on the shop's labor rate. A good mechanic can do it in an hour or less, and timing is nothing but labor. No parts or anything needed. I would hazard an educated guess that you can pay ~$60. How much timing you wanting to go for?

 

[zack_76401]

ok guys... ... i know nothin about timing on my CTD..... thats just one option i havent looked into until now... ... . could you explain more? how far should i go..... ?

 

[MLee]

timing/zack

zack;

the usual setting is 15. 5* as mentioned, ken jones in west ogden, done mine. do you have gages? your sig does not show any. with what you have now and done, gages are very important, to watch EGT's.

ken can be reached at 801 791-2328

hope this helps.



Marv.

 

[JGK]

zack,



Check out this link for some discussions on timing. Not real long, but should help your understanding of what it does.



-Jay

 

[zack_76401]

i dont have a set of gauges man... ..... i know iknow... ..... but ive had my truck set up like this since i had it and ive had no probs yet..... if i have the timing advanced will it make a difference in my egt's? increase or decrease and what kind of gauges do you reccomend?

 

[wsmalley]

Increasing timing reduces EGT's and boosts your top end performance. Gauges... well go with what you like as far as looks. Autometer, Isspro, Diprocal, are all good. Go with the best price you can find you will like all three.



For your fuel I would only recommend 16 or so, get more fuel and advance it from there to about 20 or so. You will not be sorry you did.

 

[Roger rodbolt]

Originally posted by wsmalley

Gettin your timing changed usually depends on the shop's labor rate. A good mechanic can do it in an hour or less, and timing is nothing but labor. No parts or anything needed. I would hazard an educated guess that you can pay ~$60. How much timing you wanting to go for?

Please call me slow, but I can't set the timing in an hour. How are you determining actual TDC? Anyone?

Larry

 

[bighammer]

Finding TDC is a very quick part of the proccess. (using a timing light and not having to open any fuel lines makes things quicker too)



1. Open hood



2. Remove the #1 valve cover (15mm)



3. Crank engine with alternator pulley(backward) to valve overlap (intake closing exhaust opening) (22mm)



4. Note position of harmonic balancer and crank engine forward 180 degrees using harmonic balancer bolt (15mm)



5. From under truck, clean harmonic balancer and apply masking tape and confirm 9. 25” diameter



6. Loosen exhaust valve adjuster and remove all lash clearance (14mm and reg. screwdriver)



7. Crank in exhaust valve adjuster 2 full turns (screwdriver)



8. Crank engine backwards to stop (22mm)



9. Mark harmonic balancer (I put tape on the crank sensor and highlighted the corner edge of it with the side of a pencil to use as a pointer)



10. Crank engine forward to stop (15mm)



11. Mark harmonic balancer again



12. Mark exact center of the two marks (TDC)



13. Reset exhaust valve lash (. 020” feeler gauge, 14mm and screwdriver)



14. Reinstall valve cover (15mm)

 

[Roger rodbolt]

Great instructions!

Bighammer,

Thank you for the detailed intructions. I've been pulling #1 injector and using a home grown "injector/piston stop" to locate actual TDC. Your exhaust valve method is bound to be faster. Thanks again for the info . Larry

 

[bighammer]

might as well have the rest... .





15. On a straight part of #1 line as close as possible to the injector,, gently scrape off all paint (about ½" wide)



16. Clamp on piezo adapter (snug but do not over tighten)



17. Connect timing light and warm up engine



18. When the mark is steady, note it’s location



19. Shut off engine and measure distance to TDC mark



20. See attached table for timing settings



If the timing is where you want it, you are about done. (Lucky you) Skip to step 45.



If not, continue on….



21. Make a mark on the harmonic balancer for desired timing setting. Note the distance between current timing mark (the mark you shot with the light) and desired timing mark.



22. Remove fan (fan wrenches or steel bar and hammer LH THREAD)



23. Loosen clamp around oil filler neck (8mm)



24. Remove oil filler neck clamp bolt (16mm)



25. Unscrew oil filler neck (hands or channelocks)



26. Unscrew oil fill elbow from timing cover (hands)



27. Place oil drain pan under front of differential (next step loses ~ pint of engine oil)



28. Remove access plug and timing pin from pump (it’s metric, but I used a 15/16”)



29. Crank engine forward to TDC mark and look for tab in hole of pump. If the tab is not visible, crank engine 360* to the mark again. (mirror and 15mm)



Your TDC mark should line up when the tab is centered in the window. If not, make a new secondary mark on the harmonic balancer at the point where the tab is centered. Then make a mark to advance timing to, using the chart for the desired difference in timing. (For example, if the timing is at 12* and you want to go to 15*, make a mark 1/4 inch away from the current mark)



It’s important to note, as you crank the engine to these marks, do it from a forward engine rotation so that any backlash in the engine is not a factor.



30. Loosen nut from injection pump shaft (1 3/16” & hammer)



31. If engine has moved, re-center tab in injection pump



32. Install plug backwards in injection pump hole to lock the pump. (It’s important the nut is loosened first or the plastic tab can break)



33. Remove nut and washer from injection pump shaft. Use a magnet on the shaft to prevent loss of parts into gear case.



34. Loosen pump gear from shaft (steering wheel puller)



35. Crank engine backwards, then forward to the new timing setting



36. With compressed air and solvent, clean the shaft and gear.



37. Install washer and nut and snug it up. (7 to 11 ft lbs)



38. Remove plug from pump and install correct way



39. Hold alternator nut and tighten pump gear nut to 144 ft lbs



40. Reinstall filler elbow and put filler cap in elbow. (wait on neck until proper timing is confirmed)



41. Remove any tools or parts and start engine



42. Recheck timing



If you are not where you want to be, go back to step 24. If it’s good, put it all back together.



43. Install fan



44. Install filler neck and clamp



45. Remove piezo adapter and any other tools



46. Close hood



47. Take it for a test drive

 

[bighammer]

BTW, Piers and Al deserve a real big THANK YOU for helping to fill in the blanks while I was preparing this. If I have left anything out, or something needs more detail, let me know. (email, PM, or travel companion) I can also email the MS word file that might print better. (If you PM me, give your email address for the reply)



I had a chart of distances for every half degree all worked out, but it was somehow deleted. My notes are around here someplace, but the geometry is pretty simple:



(9. 25 x pi / 360) x degrees advance you want

 

[K5IP]

timing question

Bighammer,

I found your timing information very interesting since I have also tried using a pizzo sensor attached to the #1 fuel line to sense the tube expansion during injection. I can see the pulse using an oscilloscope, but have not yet built the electronics to use the pulse to drive my timing light.

Your proceedure involves attaching a "pizzo adapter" to the #1 line. Is this a unit that can be adapted to any timing light, or is it part of a dedicated sysem? Who makes this unit? If it is cheap enough it would keep me from designing my own electronics.

Thanks,

Roger

 

[bighammer]

I bought this one



You use any inductive timing light with it. There is a loop that simulates a spark plug wire. (loop where amplified pulse signal is sent)



Snap-On has a very similar unit too, but it costs more.

 

[GAmes]

Since the truck was due a valve adjustment I decided to try bighammers method of finding TDC. I already had a mark on my damper from the last time I adjusted them using the timing pin, and wanted to see how close it was. The difference was a little over two inches. I have read posts that said to not rely on the timing pin but I didn't think it would be that far off.

 

[bighammer]

There is no way it would be off 2"



I tried to get my timing pin to go in, but I have never had any luck with it. I gave it a good yank and got it out and used a mirror to look in the hole. The hole in the gear looked like it was right on (centered) in the larger hole where the pin came from. (so I figured I was on the right track)



I use the exhaust valve and the engine on intake/compression cycles so that the cam lobe for the exhaust valve doesn't throw things off center. (if that makes any sense) So the directions must be followed exactly to have good results. (and not screw something up )

 

[GAmes]

2 inches surprised me too, so much that I went thru the entire procedure again. For valve adjustment I estimate that moves the cam 12 degrees, not that critical IMO. Soon I do plan on getting my timing set to 16 so it will be a chance to check it again. I can't recheck with the timing pin because after I had marked the balancer I forgot the pin was in and rotated the engine:{

 

[bighammer]

BTW, you don't need to find TDC for valve adjustment. Just look at the companion cylinder for valve overlap and you'll be close enough.