2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Tips for removing the arm to brake load sensor

[IWeiny]

I would like to remove the arm to my brake load sensor and try the brakes with out the valve. I don't plan to have my camper on the truck all the time so I am heasitant to remove the valve completly.



Any tips on removing this arm such that it could be replaced?



Thanks,

Ira

 

[RO'neal]

FWIW, when I put the lift on my truck I just unhooked mine and used a zip tie to hold it up out of the way. I haven't noticed any difference.

 

[DBCooper]

I undid the clip that held it on and rotated the arm so the valve would be open more. Made the rear brakes work much better and saves on the fronts.

 

[greyghost]

I made the rod adjustable with a piece of all-thread. Works great just like DBCooper said.

 

[Diesel Dick]

If my memory servs me, there was a TSB on this issue. There is a replacement valve to make the rear brakes work harder. Go check out the TSB link.

 

[jkern]

big difference here

i removed mine and tied up the valve so it was putting maximum pressure on the rear brakes... that thing would really stop... too good. had to put it back on until i can get a piece of all thread made for it 'cause on wet roads the rears would lock up with the slightest of brake pedal pressure. i think there was a TSB too.



-jkern

 

[IWeiny]

Was that with a load or unloaded?



I can't imagine locking up the rear brakes with my camper on. But I can imagine it without.



I thought about the all thread idea as well. Of course the shop manual says "adjusted at the factory" as if chrysler engineers somehow majically know all driving conditions you will be in!



Thanks for the tips. I am going to disconnect it tonight and drive it a bit tommorrow and see how it rides.

 

[Little Bill]

IWeiny,



Don't be surprised if the rear brakes are real grabby at first. It took 2 or 3 days for mine to break in and smooth out after I disconnected the link on my truck.