Towing questions

[2shus]

I've got a 95 ram reg cab diesel 2500 i have had for a while and just bought 29 foot alumalite travel trailer it and it weighs about 5000 lbs empty, who knows when full(???) I have a few questions for the more experienced towing crew. My truck is auto and it came with a torque converter lock up switch installed on it when i bought it. Should i use the switch when towing on the hiway and also should i not use the overdrive? The truck shifts just like it does when empty it just obviously takes it longer to shift out. I realize it depends on the terrain and its not to hilly in this area, i just want to get a general idea on what is the safest on my transmission, cause i have heard 2 different stories from locals about what is the best modes to drive it in.



Next question: Its a 4 wheel drive and my weight distributing ball mount sets the front of the trailer up to high and the back end scrapes often. Does anyone have a more economical idea than replacing it with an adjustable one? Most of the time I don't even need the leveling bars cause the tongue weight isn't much, but i am going to use a sway control. This is not my first towing experience i have towed some in the past but not with dodge or diesel. I would appreciate any cheaper ideas that anyone has about the hitch problem and safe ideas about the transmission mode problem. Thanks again

 

[roadranger]

Towing

Can't help you out much with the auto shifting problem, as I've got a 6 speed.



I CAN tell you that you should get the trailer to tow level- otherwise there will be excessive weight on the rear axle that can blow out tires, and the trailer will tend to sway a LOT more.



You can pick up an adjustable load leveling hitch pretty reasonable from J C Whitney, and sell off your old hitch locally.



Good luck, and safe towing!

 

[FParisi]

There are lots of post regarding use of the lock-up switch on the 12 valve forum- mostly saying DO NOT use it for accelerating as it will murder your transmission. I would use it only on those rare occasions when you need it to slow down on a steep grade.

I use OD for towing as long as the RPMs are above 16-1700. If the RPMs are dropping due to a steep grade I lock out the OD.

I hope this helps. Have fun.

 

[Loren]

2shus,



You and I should start a club. I still have my ‘95 automatic, although I expect to be selling it as soon as I can get it polished up. I've bought a six-speed. I also tow a Holiday Rambler Alumalite. I do the towing with the six-speed now, but have towed some heavy trailers with the ‘95. Here's my two cents worth.



First, I agree with both of the other posts here. I towed our 14,000 lb fifth-wheel in overdrive as well as third, depending upon conditions. In most of Indiana you can probably use overdrive, but with hills or headwinds or other higher load conditions, you will want to switch overdrive off to prevent shifting back and forth. Obviously you don't want to lug the engine and the continual shifting is hard on the transmission.



I have the torque converter lock-up switch on my auto also. I installed it to provide better braking with an exhaust brake. I didn't use it much for faster shifting during acceleration, and never used it while accelerating with a big load. Normally, the torque converter unlocks while you are decelerating. This results in virtually no engine braking. It also creates heat in the transmission, because the two halves of the torque converter are turning at different speeds and the shear heats the fluid. The lock-up switch prevents the heat and also provides a bit of engine braking. If you install an exhaust brake, you will be really happy to have the lock-up switch. For now, I expect that it doesn't do too much for you.



I agree with roadranger about the hitch. I'd bite the bullet and buy an adjustable hitch. Reese makes one that adjusts for different heights as well as different angles. If you get that kind you can set it up for a different trailer if you need to. It will be the last hitch head you will have to buy. It's important that the trailer ride level.



You said that you want to get a sway control for your hitch. If you can load the trailer to carry a heavier tongue weight you will probably not need the sway control. The farther the center of gravity is ahead of the axles (more weight on the hitch), the more stable the trailer. Look at where the axles are on the semi-trailers. They don't sway.



You obviously have good taste, since you are driving the same truck, pulling the same trailer, and even using the same hitch. Maybe I'll see you on the road someday. Happy towing.



Loren

 

[Okie-Go]

I also have a 6 spd,can't help on the transmission issue. On the leveling bars the trailer must be level while moving. You are probably correct in saying you don't need the hitch but the sway control will help. I would suggest you bit the bullet and buy the hitch. You can find used ones for 150. 00 or less with everything. I have two of them and pull a 5er. Believe it or not I found one in a pawn shop for 100. 00, I thought that was to good to pass up whether I needed it or not. You want your trailer weight on 4 tires not most of it on the rear two. (MHO)

 

[WCrovo]

The lock up switch is one of the main factors in the dimise of my 99 auto. Unless you increase the line pressures you run the risk of toasting the tourque convertor clutch. As I understand even on decell for sure not for acceleration. The only way my stock 99 would pull is with OD off, otherwise it was a large dog. The trailer should be slightly down in the front and the ball should be set at the proper angle. It took some work to get my combo just right but it tows awesome now, smooth , straight and stable. Things change as your load changes as well. Not all heads end up in the correct spot. I have two and the holes end up in different spots. Only one of them is optimum. Good luck with the set up. Experience is the best teacher unless you know someone that knows what their doing and I don't mean the Rv dealers, they never could get mine correct so I did it myself.

 

[Ron Bissett]

Originally posted by 2shus

I've got a 95 ram reg cab diesel 2500 i have had for a while and just bought 29 foot alumalite travel trailer it and it weighs about 5000 lbs empty, who knows when full(???) I have a few questions for the more experienced towing crew. My truck is auto and it came with a torque converter lock up switch installed on it when i bought it. Should i use the switch when towing on the hiway and also should i not use the overdrive? The truck shifts just like it does when empty it just obviously takes it longer to shift out. I realize it depends on the terrain and its not to hilly in this area, i just want to get a general idea on what is the safest on my transmission, cause i have heard 2 different stories from locals about what is the best modes to drive it in.



Next question: Its a 4 wheel drive and my weight distributing ball mount sets the front of the trailer up to high and the back end scrapes often. Does anyone have a more economical idea than replacing it with an adjustable one? Most of the time I don't even need the leveling bars cause the tongue weight isn't much, but i am going to use a sway control. This is not my first towing experience i have towed some in the past but not with dodge or diesel. I would appreciate any cheaper ideas that anyone has about the hitch problem and safe ideas about the transmission mode problem. Thanks again

I don't see any E - brake in sig . Get one your choice . look into the over / under kit from dexter axle . check you axle and see what you have there should be a band on axle with information . Kits cost about 24 $ each axle plus s&h I have the kit but haven't put it on yet . weather and other stuff to do . Drop hitch will help some but the lift kit is probly better . look at www.dexteraxle.com over/under kit What ever you do ask and read more Q&A one to look at is www.irv2.com Hope this helps LOL Ron

 

[RAMalama]

trailer attitude

I towed a 32ft travel trailer for 8yrs beforing buying my current trailer, a 5th wheel. I learned alot in those years and became completely comfortable towing but only after learning what rules are for proper trailer stability.



Always tow with the trailer level. When you tow tongue high, your trailer's fulcrum shifts to the rear and makes your tongue weight too heavy and yes, will make the rear end drag on occasion. Towing tongue low is extreamly dangerous. The tailer's fulcrum shifts forward making tongue weight too light greatly increasing the chance for swaying while at speed.



Tongue weight MUST be 12 to 15 percent of the trailer weight to ensure stable towing. Just realize it changes according to the attitude of your trailer.



R/ Ian.

 

[WestTN]

new to towing

The best thing to do is to get an adjustable hitch as mentioned above. Those bars are not leveling bars. They are weight transfer bars which allow you to adjust some weight to the rear of the trailer and the front of the truck if the front of your trailer is too heavy. You should have 10% to 15% of the total weight on the tongue.

If you look at the label on your trailer you will find the GVWR. Since most trailers use the minimum size tires, you should not exceed this weight, and the tires need to be inflated to the maximum pressure listed on the sidewall.

 

[Pogodually]

I agree that weight distributing type hitches with adjustable heights should be used. This transfers some of the weight back to the front wheels. The trailer should tow level and with the right spring bars and anti-sway bar from truck to trailer, will prevent trailer sway when passing or being passed. I've had travel trailers atempt to pass me due to wind from big rigs and cross winds. One TT was almost 90 to the car. Thank goodness for the old style brake controller using part of the vehicle brake fluid to an electric contol box. IMHO use spring bars and a sway bar. This is after 2 TT and 2 fivers and many years with an RV.

 

[dewdo]

I had 1 94 2500 I pulled my 34' fiver with and only had an exhaust brake without the lockup. Toasted two transmissions.



On my 2000 4x4 3500 i have the BD Brake along with the autoloc which keeps my transmission temperature down.



As for the the heigth adjustment. I just took the trailer into a repair shop and for $300. 00 they raised the trailer up four inches to where it was level when hooked to the truck. No problems towing. Someone mentioned that when you go to buy a 4x4 truck (New) the dealer will lower the truck to the heigth of the trailer if without cost if you so desire. I preferred to keep the truck higher.



The trailer repair shop said the law in Washington was the trailer had to have at least four inches clearance between the bed and the overhang of the fiver in a level position.



I would strongly suggest having an exhaust brake installed on the truck if you plan to tow in mountainous country.

 

[dewdo]

One item I forgot to address and that was towing in overdrive. The only time I don't tow in overdrive is when I am in hilly country and below 55 mph. The rest of the time I tow in overdrive. Been doing it that way for two years now with no problems, but I do have an appointment wit Bill Kondalay's outfit the 18th to have his VB and torque converter installed.



No problems with the transmission so far, but I like to improve my odds of keeping it that way. I have spent 21 days in places I didn't like waiting for a transmission to be shipped in. Not pleasant especially when the dealer won't let you use a loaner.



Dewdo in the other Washington