Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Transmission Advice

[Nate]

I'm not going to start a transmission war. I have decided who I want to go with, and I just need some info, so I'm not going to list what company this is.



I emailed them about the convertor and billet shafts, with my truck making an estimated 375hp and using it as a weekend sled puller/daily driver/tow rig.



"I would at least install a new Dodge input shaft and hub for $175. At 375hp you probably wont break the intermediate and if you installed a new Dodge shaft it would at least have a fighting chance on the converter.



The $1295 converter has a lifetime warranty, if you break a shaft in it we will send a new converter at no charge. You just pay the freight.



You could also install a triple disc converter with a 100,000 mile warranty for $1050. The stator does not multiply torque as much so you would be less

likely to break the shaft, BUT it will not pull quite as well. It is a very nice converter for towing and daily driving and a lot of people do sled pull with it. If you were to install this converter and the stock shaft broke it would cost about $400-500 to rebuild it. You would never spend the full price again. You could also put the $245 savings between the converters and use it toward the billet shaft. "







Ok, now I the way I read that info is the single disc is a better convertor than a triple disc in terms of transferring power. Can anyone help me out with an explanation? I was under the impression that tripple disc was the best out there?

 

[raychem]

The penalty with a tripple disk is weight, and every pound of rotational mass that you add is more weight that the engine has to turn. Now, I understand that you will not have that much HP but the billet shaft will give you peace of mind AND every time you brake a stock shaft it's remove the trans... order new converter and pay shiping to and from and of course another 175 dollars for a new shaft and the trans shop should at l ast go over the trans (it is down and the pump will be removed) unless your doing all the work. The decision is of course yours, I just look at it as a cost stand point. Hope this helps.



Richard

 

[Nate]

Yes I am strongly considering the billet input shaft, though is it ok to just do one and not all 3? I'd love to do all 3, but I'm not rich!

 

[raychem]

You don't need the others, The stock intermediate is very strong on its own and the output shaft is really for higher hp trucks doing 4 w/d launches so for you it wold be overkill, but not the input.



Richard

 

[San Felipe Bob]

billet input for sure!

I broke my stock input shaft with 350 hp.



I would go for the "tighter" converter , BUT thats what works with my combo.

The shop should be able to tell you which converter will work best with your combo.



Mine is all about personal preference.

I don't like the feeling of the the transmission slipping (in the converter) when taking off from a stop.

I do have to wait a tiny bit for the turbo to spool.

But hey the slight lag helps keep the 35" BFG's from going up in smoke.





SFB

 

[Bandit1]

i personnally like the tight convertor also, that was the main prob with the factor convertor is that its fluid coupling is to loose and you has to use to many rpms to transfer any power. get the billet input it is the most difficult to change and can take out the rest of the trans if it does break (other than the intermediate, which i havent heard of many at all breaking) the output shaft can be changed in your driveway. if you do go with a single disk make sure the pressures are high enough to make it work properly and keep if from slipping. you need to run higher line pressures with a single disk than with a multi disk but you dont have to worry about as much rotational mass creating vibrations or added stress on other parts. also make sure the seals that are going ot be replaced are updated and all pressures check out once the trans is rebuilt so to min leakage within the trans.