Competition Twins

[01smokinram]

Didn't realize how much fun twins could be until i got my set on this weekend. It took a lot of work to do studs,o-rings,and twins but well worth every minute of it. All i got to say is damn those are awesome. I'll be gettin a new transmission a little later so i can hold the power. Look out May Madness here i come full speed ahead. Oo. Oo. Oo. :-laf

 

[Eric Lee]

Can you please post the steps involved in doing the head work. I'm headed this way also (twins) and would like to know what I'm getting in to. I really hadn't planned to take the head off but if it can be done in weekend, maybe I will.



I was hoping that an external wastegate would keep me at - or below - 50 psi, but from what I read - boost rises pretty fast when they both lite.



Whos twins did you go with?



-Eric

 

[crawler]

I did the install on Ray's truck and lets just say it was not for the faint of heart.



His twins we're done by SMDiesel, they consist of an HX-35/12, BHT3B, Turbonetics New Gen 50mm external wastegate. Turbos and hot pipes were Ceramic coated silver and the cold pipes painted Toreador Red a metallic maroon.



The twins can be set as low as 40lbs max boost (big external wastegate makes this possible).



Or as high as your head can take.



The head had to be taken to the machine shop, disassembled, fluxed, vatted, decked, reassembled, and O-rings cut and installed.



The block was tapped for 12mm studs, cleaned, prepped, and the deck checked for flatness.



The headgasket, then head, then studs, were installed and torqued to spec. Then the pushrods, rockers, injectors, crossover tubes, injection lines, valve lash set, etc... After the twins were installed and the fluids put back in the truck, it was started and run up to operating temp then the head was stripped down and all studs were retorqued and everything reassembled.



The truck left with a SMDiesel fuel system from custom tank pick-up all the way to the injection pump with all new lines and fittings (no more banjo bolts)



Also to take take advantage of that nice 5" outlet on the 3B we fabbed up an entire new 5" exhaust to 5" miter cut stacks.



Other than that Ray will have to let you in on the rest of the secrets.



Later,

Wes

SMDiesel.com

(903) 355-4475

 

[COMP461]

red , that cool

 

[CMNS PWR]

red , that cool

Uggh! Me like color.

 

[Eric Lee]

Thanks for the rundown -

Why did you go with a 12 housing instead of a 14?

Where is the best place to get the NewGen?

If I didn't want to - or couldn't spend that kind of dough on a wastgate, what others would work well?

Can you go in a little more depth on the redrilling and tapping of the head - tools used, precautions, etc.

How many fingers would a qualified mechanic want to perform just the head work?

Which injector would you consider the best for this setup and still be able to tow?



- Eric

 

[OPoole]

TiAL makes some real nice wastegates.

 

[OPoole]

Blue CooLER ,

 

[Forrest Nearing]

way to go Ray... that's a lot of changes in a short time. how you diggin' the stacks? shoulda used curved tops to kick more of that noise at traffic and pedestrians. I've got a pair in the garage if you get a hankering





Eric,



he went with the 12 vs. the 14 because 12's are dime a dozen, 14's are $400, and with a 50mm wastegate, it ain't gonna choke him any.

 

[01smokinram]

How do i post a pic of the twins and the stacks?

 

[Todd T]

Thanks for the rundown -

Why did you go with a 12 housing instead of a 14?

Where is the best place to get the NewGen?

If I didn't want to - or couldn't spend that kind of dough on a wastgate, what others would work well?

Can you go in a little more depth on the redrilling and tapping of the head - tools used, precautions, etc.

How many fingers would a qualified mechanic want to perform just the head work?

Which injector would you consider the best for this setup and still be able to tow?



- Eric

the smaller housing is for spooling faster



you can always let off the go pedal that is free.



you dont need to drill for 12mm studs. you just need a bottoming tap. (or you can grind flat the tip of a regular tap) you want to clean the threads all the way to the bottom of the hole so the studs go all the way into the holes for better holding power. just clean everything up good before, during and after and you can do it all yourself. (your back will let you know how good a job you did the on the following day) myself I used a long handle 3/8 ratchet with a 12pt socket instead of the tee handle for my tap & die set. it kept hitting the surrounding objects. use air to blow the holes out after you're done.



I had my head cleaned, fluxed, all new guides and hardened seats installed along with milling her flat again and the bill was $1200. the fire ringing job was another $200, fire rings and head gasket some other gaskets, anti freeze sealing washers, etc the total was a few bucks over $1800



I have 180HP injectors and they only push 60lbs of boost. IE. they are too small. i have a HX40/16 feeding an HTB3/26. (PDR Street/Strip kit)



you asked about towing. smaller turbos, exhaust housings and injectors all have alot to due with smoke, spoolup, EGT's and the list goes on. you need to sit down and list out what you plan to do with the truck and match the setup to that. if you dont like lag then stay away from big turbos with big housings.