U-joint replacement with alum. shaft

[Prairie Dog]

I've replaced lots of UJ's onother stuff but never on an all aluminum shaft.
Are there special considerations like bracing the ears or do you just push the joints in as usual?
FWIW, they're AAM 1485 type greaseable Spicers.

Thanks,
Scott

 

[Bob4x4]

A bit of extra care for the shaft itself and of course heating the plastic lock before attempting removal

 

[Prairie Dog]

Thanks Bob.

 

[Ozymandias]

Use non greasable ones, they last longer.
But that's just my 2 Ct.

 

[Prairie Dog]

Use non greasable ones, they last longer.
But that's just my 2 Ct.

For some reason, they don't in this particular application.
The joints don't wear out but they start squeaking like a violin with very few miles (10~20K). I've given up on them and going to greaseable so I can at least be sure they don't go dry.
Some argue that the reason non-greaseable joints last longer is because the ones with zerks don't get greased. I do all my own maint. so I know they'll get the juice.

 

[Ozymandias]

Sounds that you have a special setup.

Anyways I would recommend using a ujoint puller on the aluminum driveshaft, like you mentioned it is easier to harm then the steel ones.

Something like that, random pick from google.
https://www.tigertool.com/tools/?ca...TvUYRAHgihcz7_Y6PjYSGm7DE2_bxwmhoCIN0QAvD_BwE

 

[Bob4x4]

I have always added my own high quality grease to any u-joint before installing. They always scrimp on the grease

 

[Freebore]

I've replaced lots of UJ's onother stuff but never on an all aluminum shaft.
Are there special considerations like bracing the ears or do you just push the joints in as usual?
FWIW, they're AAM 1485 type greaseable Spicers.

Thanks,
Scott

This is what I use with the big c-press:

https://torqueking.com/product/884009/qt4009-large-size-u-joint-separator-yoke/

 

[Wayne M.]

2 jack stands to hold the shaft, and my trusty OTC ball joint press. I’ve also used the Tiger tool Ozy mentioned on big trucks. Both are great methods.
No hammers!!