Unitized Hub Bearing Assembly Removal - Lessons Learned

[Semicrazy]

I agree that sounds like a good way to do it through the ABS sensor hole. I had one question though, aren't you also filling the tone ring the sensor picks up? And if so I just wanted to make sure that no one has had any trouble with signal reception/abs codes?

 

[mberry]

Good question Semi. I was wondering the same thing. If it is that easy, I'm doing mine today!

 

[rbattelle]

I put some grease in mine at one point - at least enough to fill the tiny cavity where the sensor sits. It didn't work because I didn't use a needle fitting, but Steved is right - they can be greased with a needle fitting.



No effect on the sensor performance.



Ryan

 

[steved]

I agree that sounds like a good way to do it through the ABS sensor hole. I had one question though, aren't you also filling the tone ring the sensor picks up? And if so I just wanted to make sure that no one has had any trouble with signal reception/abs codes?

I also know when I replaced my hubs with the DT kit, the sensor was completely covered with grease.



Being grease doesn't "dampen" magnetic pulses, it should have no ill effect on the sensor... and if you sit back and think of this question this way: If the sensor was prone to "contamination" by grease, why would you install it in a place that has grease???



steved

 

[MickeyMiller]

I second Steved observation... . my ABS sensor had all kind of jelly like substance on it, I would not have identified it as wheel bearing grease but Im sure that's what it was. Strange stuff.....

 

[rbattelle]

A word of caution: there is a such thing as too much grease. Too much grease packed into a sealed component is going to generate a lot of heat, which is going to break down the grease. So don't go nuts with it.



Ryan

 

[NC_Mog]

I agree that sounds like a good way to do it through the ABS sensor hole. I had one question though, aren't you also filling the tone ring the sensor picks up? And if so I just wanted to make sure that no one has had any trouble with signal reception/abs codes?

The ABS sensor picks up the presence of the metal tabs of the ring as it goes around. Air or grease in between makes no difference.

 

[steved]

A word of caution: there is a such thing as too much grease. Too much grease packed into a sealed component is going to generate a lot of heat, which is going to break down the grease. So don't go nuts with it.



Ryan

I agree with this statement, but at the same time, I would be MORE concerned about mixing greases and the resulting incompatability, although I did not have anytrouble with that...



We packed a lot of grease into dad's and mine's unit bearings when we had them apart... there is a lot of room in them that is "void". And like I stated before, there was less than a teaspoon of grease in his when we had them apart originally (mine had substantially more). We used regular valvoline grease... I would guess we used what would amount to about half a tube (tube for a normal sized grease gun) in EACH hub and still had air space. I say I "guess" because we were using it out of one of those big tubs, but it took quite a bit.



As I stated before, I had over 201k on one hub and 167k on the other (the one with 167k had worn through the case hardened spindle, but the bearings themselves were still good). I traded the truck at 201k. Dad currently has over 256k on his original unit bearings. We have only greased them that single time at 86k. He has had them off several times to replace rotors, but he has never had bearing issues.



steved

 

[cojhl2]

A word of caution: there is a such thing as too much grease. Too much grease packed into a sealed component is going to generate a lot of heat, which is going to break down the grease. So don't go nuts with it.



Ryan

Frankly, I never understood the need to fill a cavity with grease because unless the grease becomes flowable it isn't going to run into the bearings anyway is it?. And if the grease is flowable there are other problems.



Too bad roller bearing aren't lubricated like a big truck,, with 90wt.



Waddya think?

 

[steved]

Frankly, I never understood the need to fill a cavity with grease because unless the grease becomes flowable it isn't going to run into the bearings anyway is it?. And if the grease is flowable there are other problems.



Too bad roller bearing aren't lubricated like a big truck,, with 90wt.



Waddya think?

The grease does flow due to heat and centrifugal force slinging it outward, it pushes it into the bearings.



steved

 

[cojhl2]

The grease does flow due to heat and centrifugal force slinging it outward, it pushes it into the bearings.



steved

Good point re the centrifugal force. Although as slow as the wheel turns I am surprised it would amount to much. !!

 

[rbattelle]

Frankly, I never understood the need to fill a cavity with grease because unless the grease becomes flowable it isn't going to run into the bearings anyway is it?

True, but you're missing the critical point. Remember the purpose of grease: to hold oil and gradually leech it out to provide lubricant to the part.



"Grease" is simply oil with a binder in it. Although the binder usually has lubrication properties itself, the vast majority of the lubrication is handled by the oil.



The reason grease eventually goes bad is it leeches out all the oil and the only thing left is the binder. That's when it's time to clean it out and replace it.



So even in a large cavity it's good to have grease present because it will continue to provide a source of oil for the parts.



Ryan

 

[cojhl2]

Thanks Ryan,, That helps clear up a question I've had for years. .



John

 

[Jumbo Jet]

Here is how I spent this snowy Saturday in Arkansas -



Truck has 61,000 miles on it. I've never seen any appreciable tire wear - I rotate a lot, and have had 4 different sets of tires on the truck during these miles. None of those tires were worn out, I just bought and swapped around a lot. 3 out of 4 ball joints were really in bad shape. One probably would meet specs.



Driver's side taken apart -



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[Jumbo Jet]

Passenger side taken apart -



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[rbattelle]

Jumbo - did you cut the ball joints out?



Ryan

 

[CHubbard]

75W140 oil in front hubs?

Has anyone added ~4 oz of 75W-140 rean end oil to the front hubs? Will expansion cause the seals to dislocate?



any experieces shared appreciated.

 

[steved]

Jumbo - did you cut the ball joints out?



Ryan

The BJs are sitting on the floor in the foreground... they don't look cut.



steved

 

[rbattelle]

The BJs are sitting on the floor in the foreground... they don't look cut.



steved

Oh yeah, duh. Didn't notice them before.



Ryan

 

[Jumbo Jet]

I forgot to mention that because of the info at the beginning of this thread, I decided to do the ball joints myself - thanks!



I got quotes from 3 different auto repair shops in town - $800+, $945, and $1250. The $800+ said that would be the minimum and may become more.



I recently did ball joints for a friend with a 3500 2wd and my sons Z71. We borrowed the press from O'Reilly Auto Parts.



I was a little concerned about doing a 2500 4x4, but everything, except for the hub nuts came off without any problems. I took a round, flat chisel and hit each side of flat side of the hub nut with a big hammer. They then came off OK. Before I did that, we broke a 3/4" breakover bar (with a 3' cheater pipe on it). I went to town and bought another breakover and a 3/4" ratchet handle.



All other parts came out clean.



I am going back with greasable McQuay-Norris ball joints with the poly urethane boots.



I purchased an OTC press kit. I purchased the 2004 Dodge Service manual from Geno's garage on CD. I like having my own stuff to work with.



The TDR is a great place for information.