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UPGRADE: 6.7 harmonic damper on 5.9

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Just installed a harmonic damper off of a 6. 7 onto the 5. 9 in my '04. 5. Of course the install also included the 6. 7 fan pulley which is needed to clear the new fluid filled damper of the 6. 7. Other than new bolts for the damper there is nothing else needed for this upgrade. The installation was made easier in my case because I was going to do a cam swap so all work on the damper and fan pulley was with the a/c condenser, intercooler, radiator, fan and shroud removed. One could do this upgrade by removing only the fan and shroud and you should have plenty of room to work. I also replaced the front crankshaft oil seal at the same time - from the outside, not a fun thing to do!

After removing the old damper and tone ring I cleaned up the snout of the crank with emery cloth and applied anti-seize. This is where the damper fits onto the crank. Loctite was applied to the damper bolts and they were torqued to 92 ft lbs. The fan pulley is a simple swap and I simply tightened the bolts very snug, don't know the torque value. The tone ring is machined into the 6. 7 damper so the old tone ring is no longer needed.

With the fan and shroud off I could remove the belt with a little effort by twisting the belt toward the front of the truck between the damper and fan pulley and then turning the fan pulley which caused the belt to work through. Install of belt is simply turning the fan pulley the opposite direction. If I have time tomorrow I will try belt removal with everything back in place.

First impression from limited driving is that the truck seems very smooth, almost silky. This first impression also includes newly rebuilt 50hp balanced injectors that were installed at the same time as the 6. 7 damper. Recently a rebuilt NV5600 and new South Bend OFE single disk clutch were installed and this transmission is by far the smoothest NV5600 I have ever driven (a total of 9). The new upgrade and the new injectors simply made it a dream to drive, at least at this point. One really impressive thing that I believe is due solely to the new 6. 7 fluid damper was the "paper test". Touching the edge of a full sheet of paper against the shifter results in a sound very much like an electric engraver. I always believed this to be engine vibration because it was present at idle while stopped as well as going down the road. After the upgrade I touched a paper to the shifter and there was absolutely no noise! Amazing! I will do this test again at highway speed and also while towing to see what happens. To me this equates to less vibration wearing on the clutch and transmission. Time will tell if any monetary benefit in prolonged component service is a result of this upgrade.

BTW, the 6. 7 damper and fan pulley are less expensive than buying the 5. 9 damper by far!

Cost for the parts was $276. 07 before sales tax. Damper was $224. 04, fan pulley $47. 07 and $4. 96 for four bolts.

The conclusion is that I need to order the parts for my '05 and see if the 6. 7 parts can also be put on the '01.

Godspeed,
Trent
 
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When I rebuilt the 5. 9 in my 03 I thought about doing this but couldn't find any info about it having being done. Since I didn't know about the fan pulley or what else might need to be done and with my budget running out I didn't do it. Now I will reconsider. Thanks Trent. Shad
 
THANKS... What a nice, simple write-up for an excellent upgrade.



In the last year or so, I have asked and written about doing this mod on 3 differrent forums and at least 5 separate threads, and you are the FIRST to make it work AND provide a simple explanation as HOW to do it.

Thanks for seeing the mod through all the dirty details.



I'd imagine it will be of partiucular significance to those of us who have removed the DMF during a clutch upgrade!!



I can't wait to get it done on my truck now that I know it CAN be done. Oo.

Thanks again.
 
Will the 6. 7 pulley also allow belt change clearance with a Fluidamper?



No idea, someone with a Fluidamper will have to be the guinea pig there. If the belt is so difficult to change with the Fluidamper I would think that $50 and a few minutes of time would be worth it, especially if the belt needs changed anyway.



Godspeed,

Trent
 
Thanks for all the info Trent. I'll be ordering a new 6. 7 pulley for my FD to play with but will probably wait until I have to remove the fan for some other reason to install it.
Do you tow? If so then I look forward to hearing of your observations regarding drone.

Scotty
 
Thanks for all the info Trent. I'll be ordering a new 6. 7 pulley for my FD to play with but will probably wait until I have to remove the fan for some other reason to install it.

Do you tow? If so then I look forward to hearing of your observations regarding drone.



Scotty



Scotty,



Yes I do tow, delivering campers, horse trailers, boats, portable cell towers, etc. , all over the country for part of my livelihood. Currently there is little drone because of the Donaldson muffler on the truck. I am curious to find out what effect the upgrade may have while towing. Should know next week.



Godspeed,

Trent
 
is the 6. 7 dampener better, or just cheeper than the 5. 9?

Wondering why anyone would have thought of this swap other than price ?



The 6. 7 fluid damper does it's job much better than the rubber style 5. 9 damper. The fact that it is also less expensive is a bonus as is the fact that it should last much longer than the rubber style.



Godspeed,

Trent
 
The reason the bolts are a different p/n is because they are longer. The reason they are longer is because the 6. 7 has a barring device ( for "barring" the engine over ) mounted on the front of the damper. Therefore you could use the original bolts as long as you don't damage them when removing them, or buy new ones, but for some strange reason they are a lot more money than the 6. 7 bolts. Go figure???



5. 9 bolts p/n 3903857 m12 x 1. 25 x 36

6. 7 bolts p/n 4937228 m12 x 1. 25 x 40? IIRC



Shad
 
Well, shoot. Wish this thread had started a couple weeks ago. I'm in the middle of a Fluidamper install on my '04. Contrary to earlier reports, it's not the water pump that nearly clashes with the new damper, it's the fan hub. There's only 1/16" clearance there now. I haven't torqued the bolts yet, so I'll go get a new belt before I buckle everything down for good. And a set of fan wrenches, I guess.



As someone reported back up the line, it IS possible to install the new damper without removing the fan. The sweet spot is verrrrry small, but it works.
 
There is a gap in the tone ring but I don't think that is what you are talking about.



Godspeed,

Trent



Notch in the damper for the CPS, thats why he wanted to know if th edamper itslef was smooth all the way around. Thats how they trigger the sensor. The 12 and 24V's don't have a tone ring so some of use are wondering if its possible to use them and still trigger the sensor.
 
The older dampers have a groove cut in them for the engine speed sensor to read from. Prabably going to be a bust for the older trucks but dang glad its an option for the newer ones.
 
Notch in the damper for the CPS, thats why he wanted to know if th edamper itslef was smooth all the way around. Thats how they trigger the sensor. The 12 and 24V's don't have a tone ring so some of use are wondering if its possible to use them and still trigger the sensor.



Yeah, I'm thinkin' it's smooth all the way around. Wasn't looking for a notch during the install but I'm sure I would have noticed a notch if one was there. Will try to look later on today. Would it be on the back side of the damper or the bottom?



Godspeed,

Trent
 
Will the 6. 7 pulley also allow belt change clearance with a Fluidamper?

IIRC, the Fluidamper is smaller than the 6. 7 HB? If that's the case, it should be good to go with the 6. 7 pulley on a 5. 9 and not be an issue come belt-changing time... ... Anyone?
 
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