2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Urgently Need Advice on Broken Hub Bolts

[rickhans]

I have searched the archives and read quite a bit about broken axle hub bolts. I need to get answers to see if I understand for sure what is causing the problem. A reputable repair shop has been doing my repairs on all my vehicles for a few years and has done a good job, but is a little stumped on this. One of their mechanic ran into this problem on his own 98 2500. Here are the facts and questions:



1. '98 24 valve 4wd 2500 quad cab, 108,000 miles, 5 speed, only tow about 10% of the miles, ranging from 8k pounds to occassionaly 17,000# loaded gooseneck.



2. Rear brake job done at about 102,000 miles.



3. At around 107k, started seeing black oil on rims.

Thought might be dirty hydraulic fluid. Took it back to shop.



4. They found bad axle bearing housing and bearings, bad hub with broken and warbled out holes, both sides.



5. Purchased 2 good used hub and bearing housing, installed with new bearings and new bolts, filled with rear end fluid.



6. Immediately started leaking both sides, running down inside of tire, and some on outside.



7. They took it apart, replaced seals, put back together, left hub cabs off so could watch it better. It still leaked. Thought might be too full, after about a week, stopped leaking.



8. 6 weeks later (now) 2 bolts broken again and one was loose, broke when taking it out, getting ready to replace all bolts again.



Can an overfill force a leak at the outer seals?



Does a rear brake job require the removel of the rear hub or hub bolts for any reason? I have read this in one of the threads but don't see why it would be necessary to remove the drum.



I saw the mechanic using an air impact wrench. I will see if he used it to install, if so probably stretched the bolts. But what started the problem if they were not removed when brake job was done?



I have not found any stronger bolts to replace the factory bolts. One suggestion was stainless steel allen head bolts but can't find the specs on these bolts to know for sure the thread type and size. One said 5/16" 8 mark, but these bolts only have 7 marks on them.



Thanks for any help. I have to pull trailers this week but not with 3 broken bolts on one side.

 

[CumminsPower98]

I don't know what the root of the problem is but no, the axle and hub does not need to be removed to do brakes. If the shop did use a air impact to install them that's no good as you know. They should be torqued to 90 ft. lbs. Overfilling should not cause an axle flange gasket to leak but it can cause a hub seal to leak if it's not in the best shape. Make sure your axle vent is not plugged for one thing. I sure don't know why the bolts would be breaking though if everything was put together correctly. I have had mine apart a few times for hub seals and have never had a leak or bolt problem in 300k miles and I do tow about 45% of the time.

 

[Extreme1]

I'd check the bearing play with a dial indicator. If the bearings are too loose, the axle will be trying to flex and fatigue the bolts.



I'd guess the mechanic didn't get the drumbs off the hubs and just pulled the hubs to do the rear brakes.



Also look at the end of the axle tube for any burrs from the bearing failure, that would keep the bearing from seating square and might also cause the same thing.



When I have my hubs off I follow the FSM instructions (torque and back off) but final adjustment is done with the dial indicator.

 

[Scot]

If the axle bolts ran loose and were not replaced they will break like you describe. The repeated shock loads (acceleration-decelleration) will cause microfractures in the bolts and will break over time. Scrap all of them.

 

[rickhans]

It has been 2 weeks and we still have not been able to purchase enough bolts to replace all on both hubs. They have been on back order from the dealer and I have not found a source for any higher quality bolts. Any suggestions?

 

[jkalchik]

I bought some replacements a year ago when I went through the front brakes on my 99 4wd (replaced the rotors. ) I don't think I'd go aftermarket on the hub bolts. They're VERY hard bolts, and IIRC, they've got a profile to the shaft as well as the flanged head.

 

[rickhans]

Update to the problem - I need help

Now 3 weeks later, we have not been able to find enough bolts in Dallas to replace all of the bolts on both hubs. My mechanic got 4 bolts and started replacing the broken ones but the first new bolt he put in broke at the head when he started to torque it. It broke before he worked it up to 90 pounds.



Obviously Chrysler has an inventory of defective bolts. Most of the new bolts put in earlier have now broken off at the head. I called customer service and they said talk to the parts department and would not even let me talk to a manager.



Does anyone know a phone number and contact within Chrysler who would know about the defective bolts?



Can anyone give me any specifications for buying bolts anywhere other than from Chrysler. The bolt shop I go to does not carry anything like this nor could they refer me to anyone. I am stuck without transportation or a way to tow until I get this problem resolved.

 

[JohnsonG]

Maybe take the bolt over to Cat and see if they have something that will work. Their bolts are pretty good... Also something to think about is the torque wrench and is it calabrated. if it is off, it could be possible to overtorque the bolts... Lastly is there a seal between the axle flange and the hub? or are yall using a sealer only?

 

[rickhans]

What is CAT? I also have not been able to verify the size of the bolt and thread type. There is one posting here with that info, but need to confirm it for this model. The dealers don't have that info. The bolts only have 7 marks on them which is strange because I have been told they are an 8 mark bolt.



I have not calibrated my torque wrench and don't know about the mechanic's wrench, but I assume that they both would not be out enough to cause this problem.

 

[JohnsonG]

Catapiller Equipment - they can probably match whatever the bolt is...

 

[kentdiesel]

3. At around 107k, started seeing black oil on rims.

Thought might be dirty hydraulic fluid. Took it back to shop.



4. They found bad axle bearing housing and bearings, bad hub with broken and warbled out holes, both sides.







If the bearings spun and damaged the axle spindle where the bearings rest then new bearings and/or hubs won't fix it. It will take a good replacement axle housing or the bearing race will continue to spin and work loose, then oil leaks start and broken axle bolts are next.



The key to no oil leaks or broken axle bolts is to run oil bath axle bearings at zero play like you do on big truck oil bath wheel bearings.

When I bought my truck it had 86,000miles on it and one seal was starting to seep a little. I knew from past experience on class 8 trucks that loose wheel bearings lead to big trouble.

I replaced the hub seals and threw the POS Nylon wheel bearing nuts in the trash. I replaced the Dodge nylon nuts with a wheel bearing nut, lock ring and jam nut assembly from a Ford Dana 80. The truck now has 160,000 with no leaks or wheel bearing trouble. I will post the dana part numbers if anybody wants them.



I also preloaded the bearings just like I've always done on a class 8 semi. In other words: Tighten the nut til there is no play, if you have to preload the bearings alittle to get the lock ring to line up thats OK. Try to squirt some oil in the hub before you slide the axle in or jack the truck up on one side then the other to tilt the differential so oil will run down the axle tubes to the wheel bearings. Don't run wheel bearing dry til the pinion slings oil down the axle tubes, they could burn up before oil ever gets to them.



Think of oil bath wheel bearings like differential pinion bearings, they also run in a oil bath with preload.



I know the Dodge Factory Service Manual says to run Dana 70 and 80 wheel bearings with so many thosandths of play. When I read this years ago I laughed and thought whoever wrote this must be used to packing grease on the front wheel bearings of his car.

I think the reason they can get away with play is because there not much weight being carried. The more play and weight the bearings have the faster and harder they can beat the wheel bearing, spindle and hub assembly apart.