I'm having or was having a US Gear installed in my truck. However the installer will not modify my gas tank (must be shorten by 12"). I've talk to some local Dodge guys and they have suggested looking at a 1/2 ton gas powers gas tank. I don't want a smaller tank. Kind of defeats the purpose of getting the splitter in the first place. Any one else have this problem with a 2500 QC SWB?
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US Gear Installation
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Loren
TDR MEMBER
Garrett,
I am in the process of doing the same thing and I have the same problem. I am looking into having a plastics fabricator cut and weld the tank for me. I estimate that if this works, I'll lose 2-3 gallons of capacity.
There are some snags, however. See my question and replies on the Product/Accessories Forum at:
Shortening the fuel tank?
I hope we can both get answers.
Loren
I am in the process of doing the same thing and I have the same problem. I am looking into having a plastics fabricator cut and weld the tank for me. I estimate that if this works, I'll lose 2-3 gallons of capacity.
There are some snags, however. See my question and replies on the Product/Accessories Forum at:
Shortening the fuel tank?
I hope we can both get answers.
Loren
When I looked at the USG units, I was told about the fuel tank issue with the standard cab trucks, and that the extended cabs were not affected. Guess I'd better pass this along. I really like my Gear Vendors, and once this snag gets cleared up, you'll like the USG even more. Hang in there, it's worth it.
Greg
Greg
Why did you choose US over gear vendor since this is not a problem with the GV unit? I am thinking about a over dirve in the near future. Just wanting to get all available data.
Loren
TDR MEMBER
My main reason for deciding on the USGear instead of the Gear Vendors is that a USGear unit will work with all modes. That is, it will work in 4WD, in reverse, with or without the exhaust brake, and in overdrive. There are several discussions on both units in the TDR forums.
The USGear unit mounts between the transmission and the transfer case while the Gear Vendors unit mounts at the back of the last transmission, whether that is the transmission (on 2WD) or the transfer case (on 4WD).
The two major drawbacks to the USGear unit are:
1. With some configurations (Quad-Cab, six-speed, short bed, 4WD for one) the transfer case will hit the fuel tank when it is moved to the rear to allow space for the USGear unit.
2. Both driveshafts, rather than just the rear driveshaft, must be lengthened/shortened to adjust for the new transfer case location.
The driveshaft work is straightforward and simple, if not cheap. Shortening the plastic fuel tank is not nearly so easily done.
Loren
The USGear unit mounts between the transmission and the transfer case while the Gear Vendors unit mounts at the back of the last transmission, whether that is the transmission (on 2WD) or the transfer case (on 4WD).
The two major drawbacks to the USGear unit are:
1. With some configurations (Quad-Cab, six-speed, short bed, 4WD for one) the transfer case will hit the fuel tank when it is moved to the rear to allow space for the USGear unit.
2. Both driveshafts, rather than just the rear driveshaft, must be lengthened/shortened to adjust for the new transfer case location.
The driveshaft work is straightforward and simple, if not cheap. Shortening the plastic fuel tank is not nearly so easily done.
Loren
Hi redeye. Good to hear you! You're right about the exhaust brake issue and the Gear Vendors- They will crater in a short time if an exhaust brake is used while in OD. There's a relay to drop the GV out if the Exhaust brake is energized (whump as it goes out of od) or you can get a simple relay to remove the ground from the exhaust brake solenoid when the GV is on. EASY! The GV seems ideal for the Auto transmission guys. Quiet in operation and a hydraulic shift. Still viable for a man. transmission, but with 3. 54 gears, OD isn't available until 3rd. I talked to a guy with the USG in an auto truck- "it takes a little practice to split gears smoothly". I would prefer the USG were it not for the fuel tank issue, but the GV has made me happy.
Greg
Greg
I don't think it's been mentioned yet but they have install pics on the US Gear web site. Shows a shortened tank. Just thought I'd post it. http://www.usgear.com/magazine/st0103/index_photo.htm
Man, now I want one!!
John
Man, now I want one!!
John
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Loren,
Thanks for your post. I was wondering if anyone was going to respond. I check out your thread, that was helpfull. I have contacted Aerotanks, I'm waiting for a reply.
The most furstrating part to this whole mess is I have a shop waiting with parts in hand for the last month. They were willing to modify the tank untill they had problem with some other tanks they modified for a different customer. They had to remove the splitters and install new stock fuel tanks on there own dime and give the guy's money back.
Thanks for your post. I was wondering if anyone was going to respond. I check out your thread, that was helpfull. I have contacted Aerotanks, I'm waiting for a reply.
The most furstrating part to this whole mess is I have a shop waiting with parts in hand for the last month. They were willing to modify the tank untill they had problem with some other tanks they modified for a different customer. They had to remove the splitters and install new stock fuel tanks on there own dime and give the guy's money back.
Loren
TDR MEMBER
John,
Thanks for the photo link. The pictures were very informative.
One caption states that the estimated loss in fuel capacity is about a gallon. I think that's way out of line. I'll be happy if I lose only three gallons of capacity. After the job is done I'll have actual measurements.
I hope to have more information to post by tomorrow (Monday, 6 January) or maybe the next day. I think I have tracked down a local (Cincinnati) guy who will weld the tank for me. If that falls through, I have a backup. I don't want to post any information that isn't correct, though, so I'll wait until I can verify it.
This job is getting out of hand. All I originally wanted to do was to install an in-line fuel boost pump closer to the tank. As long as I was going to drop the tank, I thought I might as well get it shortened at the same time, since I've wanted the USGear unit ever since I bought the truck. I started this work to install a pump that I had already paid for, and now it looks like it will cost another $2500-3500 for the transmission, tank welding, and driveshaft work. Besides all that, it's a big job, especially for a perfectionist like me.
Thanks again for all the help from the members.
Loren
Thanks for the photo link. The pictures were very informative.
One caption states that the estimated loss in fuel capacity is about a gallon. I think that's way out of line. I'll be happy if I lose only three gallons of capacity. After the job is done I'll have actual measurements.
I hope to have more information to post by tomorrow (Monday, 6 January) or maybe the next day. I think I have tracked down a local (Cincinnati) guy who will weld the tank for me. If that falls through, I have a backup. I don't want to post any information that isn't correct, though, so I'll wait until I can verify it.
This job is getting out of hand. All I originally wanted to do was to install an in-line fuel boost pump closer to the tank. As long as I was going to drop the tank, I thought I might as well get it shortened at the same time, since I've wanted the USGear unit ever since I bought the truck. I started this work to install a pump that I had already paid for, and now it looks like it will cost another $2500-3500 for the transmission, tank welding, and driveshaft work. Besides all that, it's a big job, especially for a perfectionist like me.
Thanks again for all the help from the members.
Loren
Loren
TDR MEMBER
I delivered the tank to a local plastics fabrication shop yesterday evening (Monday). Ron, the plastics guy, said that he would be able to tell me by Wednesday whether or not he could weld it, and if so, he should have it done by Thursday morning.
The tank is black, with a white liner. Ron thought that the outside, black part is high-density polyethylene and white liner is cross-linked polyethylene. Cross-linked polyethylene is not weldable.
The pictures on the USGear web site show a tank with a plate across the cut off end. We are guessing that the fabricator for that tank just welded a piece of high-density polyethylene to the end, leaving the cross-linked liner open. We speculate that this might be a problem with gasoline, but Ron says that he has made diesel tanks with 100% high-density polyethylene (no liner).
He will probably do the same thing for me. I'll know more by Thursday.
Loren
The tank is black, with a white liner. Ron thought that the outside, black part is high-density polyethylene and white liner is cross-linked polyethylene. Cross-linked polyethylene is not weldable.
The pictures on the USGear web site show a tank with a plate across the cut off end. We are guessing that the fabricator for that tank just welded a piece of high-density polyethylene to the end, leaving the cross-linked liner open. We speculate that this might be a problem with gasoline, but Ron says that he has made diesel tanks with 100% high-density polyethylene (no liner).
He will probably do the same thing for me. I'll know more by Thursday.
Loren
Has anyone contacted US Gear to see just exactly how much, if any of the tank needs to be removed? And for exactly which applications? If they have pictures on their site, they should be able to provide all kinds of info on this particular modification. I liked the caption "simple modification"
I was really thinking of doing this, but now, I dont think so.
I was really thinking of doing this, but now, I dont think so.
jtisdale,
I have been yelling at them for the last month. Basically if you have a regular cab or QuadCad SWB you need to cut off approx. 12" of your tank.
The trouble I'm having is they pass you on to a local distribrutor and installer. They will install the US Gear but will not touch the fuel tank. Thats my problem, so I've call around and done a few posts and found a lot of horror stories but few solutions. Aerotanks seems to be the best solution for me. They will make a custom tank and brackets and garranty the whole smash. I won't loose any fuel capacity either. The tank will be approx. 40 gallons.
I have had a few reply from Loren, he seems to be going through the same issues.
As always thanks for the info.
I have been yelling at them for the last month. Basically if you have a regular cab or QuadCad SWB you need to cut off approx. 12" of your tank.
The trouble I'm having is they pass you on to a local distribrutor and installer. They will install the US Gear but will not touch the fuel tank. Thats my problem, so I've call around and done a few posts and found a lot of horror stories but few solutions. Aerotanks seems to be the best solution for me. They will make a custom tank and brackets and garranty the whole smash. I won't loose any fuel capacity either. The tank will be approx. 40 gallons.
I have had a few reply from Loren, he seems to be going through the same issues.
As always thanks for the info.
Last edited:
Loren
TDR MEMBER
More in the never-ending story of fuel tank modifications:
The USGear tech guy told me that the unit will be between 12 and 14 inches long, depending on the adaptors needed for my particular installation. I have about 4 inches of clearance now, so I am having 12 inches cut off.
The original plastic guy (remember Ron?) told me that his boss had a fit when he saw the tank in the shop. The shop will not accept jobs involving fuel tanks for over-the-road vehicles. They work on construction, farm, etc. but not pickups.
Ron is not able to weld it for me outside the shop because he doesn't own an $8000 extrusion plastic welding machine. A different guy in the shop does, though. Craig is taking the tank home to weld it, and I should have it by tomorrow if everything goes according to plan. We'll see. I've run down too many blind alleys to expect anything until I see it.
The cost for the work is going to be about $250, which I think is a bit high, but there is this $8000 machine to ammortize, and I would imagine that it's not a skill that you can learn overnight either.
As I said, it looks like I'll lose about 3 gallons of capacity, which will bring me down to about 30 gallons. (The most I've ever put into the tank has been 33 gallons. ) Regarding the Aerotank, Garrett, you will have to decide whether or not the additional 10 gallons is worth the additional cost. I have a bed tank with 100 gallons in it, so it isn't as significant for me.
There is a guy in Tulsa, OK, who welds these tanks. I have been intending to use him as a last resort, mostly because I didn't want to have to ship a tank to Tulsa. He will do the work on your own tank (if you don't mind the wait) or on an exchange basis if he has a tank like yours already done. That is, he will ship you a completed tank before your tank arrives in Tulsa. He charges $270 for the work, plus shipping. He also requires a fully refundable deposit of around $200 (or your tank) before he will ship one. His data:
Red Young
Hurricane Custom Power
phone: 918-582-9029
jtisdale, I think that this will prove to be well worth all the effort, in spite of the work involved. This job, however, is not for the faint of heart. It requires the willingness to have your fuel tank cut up, some control and power wiring, dropping the transfer case (heavy), making sure everything fits together properly in the transmission area, and driveshaft modifications. I don't know the level of your skill/comfort with such things, but for me it's worth it to do it myself.
I intend to keep my truck a reeeeeally long time, and I will be enjoying that two-speed for years to come. Eventually, I'll forget what a pain it was to install it.
Loren
The USGear tech guy told me that the unit will be between 12 and 14 inches long, depending on the adaptors needed for my particular installation. I have about 4 inches of clearance now, so I am having 12 inches cut off.
The original plastic guy (remember Ron?) told me that his boss had a fit when he saw the tank in the shop. The shop will not accept jobs involving fuel tanks for over-the-road vehicles. They work on construction, farm, etc. but not pickups.
Ron is not able to weld it for me outside the shop because he doesn't own an $8000 extrusion plastic welding machine. A different guy in the shop does, though. Craig is taking the tank home to weld it, and I should have it by tomorrow if everything goes according to plan. We'll see. I've run down too many blind alleys to expect anything until I see it.
The cost for the work is going to be about $250, which I think is a bit high, but there is this $8000 machine to ammortize, and I would imagine that it's not a skill that you can learn overnight either.
As I said, it looks like I'll lose about 3 gallons of capacity, which will bring me down to about 30 gallons. (The most I've ever put into the tank has been 33 gallons. ) Regarding the Aerotank, Garrett, you will have to decide whether or not the additional 10 gallons is worth the additional cost. I have a bed tank with 100 gallons in it, so it isn't as significant for me.
There is a guy in Tulsa, OK, who welds these tanks. I have been intending to use him as a last resort, mostly because I didn't want to have to ship a tank to Tulsa. He will do the work on your own tank (if you don't mind the wait) or on an exchange basis if he has a tank like yours already done. That is, he will ship you a completed tank before your tank arrives in Tulsa. He charges $270 for the work, plus shipping. He also requires a fully refundable deposit of around $200 (or your tank) before he will ship one. His data:
Red Young
Hurricane Custom Power
phone: 918-582-9029
jtisdale, I think that this will prove to be well worth all the effort, in spite of the work involved. This job, however, is not for the faint of heart. It requires the willingness to have your fuel tank cut up, some control and power wiring, dropping the transfer case (heavy), making sure everything fits together properly in the transmission area, and driveshaft modifications. I don't know the level of your skill/comfort with such things, but for me it's worth it to do it myself.
I intend to keep my truck a reeeeeally long time, and I will be enjoying that two-speed for years to come. Eventually, I'll forget what a pain it was to install it.
Loren
Loren
TDR MEMBER
Garrett,
To my knowledge, no one has provided any feedback on service or quality of work from Hurricane Custom Power. I know I would not be the only person who would like to know about your experience with Red if you decide to use his service.
Please leave a post about how things worked out for you with this company. I know it could be a couple of weeks or more before it's all done, but I, for one, would really like to know how it went.
I got the impression from talking to Red over the phone that they do good work. That's also the impression that the USGear tech guy gave me.
Loren
To my knowledge, no one has provided any feedback on service or quality of work from Hurricane Custom Power. I know I would not be the only person who would like to know about your experience with Red if you decide to use his service.
Please leave a post about how things worked out for you with this company. I know it could be a couple of weeks or more before it's all done, but I, for one, would really like to know how it went.
I got the impression from talking to Red over the phone that they do good work. That's also the impression that the USGear tech guy gave me.
Loren
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