Warped brake rotors, third time is ....

[KHarrower]

When I bought the truck, the front end shimmied when the brakes were applied, so I had the rotors turned. 1500 miles later the front end again shimmied. so off to a new brake shop. They found that half of the rear brake cylinder on both wheels was not working, so they rebuilt the rear brake cylinders and turned the front rotors. Last week, and 1500 miles later, good old shimmy again, so back to the brake shop. This time a new mechanic tells me that my front brake lines are not allowing the fluid to drain back quickly after the brakes are applied, which he checked by opening the bleeder screw after applying the brakes, which then released the pressure. Without releasing the bleeder screw, the brakes would stay on (drag) for a while. If the bleeder screw did not release the pressure, the problem would have been sticking calipers. I had heard of sticking calipers which is what I suspected all along, but had not heard of faulty brake lines. This mechanic said he has been doing brakes for 21 years and has seen this many times, the brake lines failing from the inside. I hope he is right. At this rate, I won't ever have to worry about my front wheel bearings wearing out as they have been repacked three times in three months.

 

[dpuckett]

ANother reason to do it yourself

I had the guy at AutoZOne tell Mom a few years ago her brake lines were wearing from the inside out, and that they needed replaced. We replaced them, and no difference. New CALIPERS made a difference, though. I'd get new calipers, and brake lines just for kicks and giggles. BUT, I'd almost bet money on your rear brakes being out of adjustment. "Self adjusting" means crawling under there and adjusting them yerself. No kidding. If the rears are out of adjustment (I adjust mine at every oil change to have quite a goodly amount of drag on the drum as I turn the tire), it puts more stress on the fronts, heating them up, and warping your rotors.



Make sure the shop flushes out the old fluid sometime. There was an article in the magazine a few issues back, and it said brake fluid absorbs water, and that you need to flush the old crud out every two years or so. I do it every year; it's cheaper that way.



Why did they rebuild your wheel cylinders, when new ones are under $30? I dont trust rebuilt brake stuff... .....



Daniel

 

[Philip]

I have seen many bad brake lines before. A lot of people can't believe that a rubber line can go bad and not leak.



I replace my front flex lines every couple of years. They get very weather cracked in this amount of time. So time for new ones.



Don't forget there are three flex lines on the front alxe. The third one goes from the frame down to the axle. Replace it to.

 

[Paychk]

I've heard of this happening with the rubber flex lines. I suppose it could even happen with the hard lines, ie corrosion in the right spot.

 

[BushWakr - RIP]

It can happen and does... .



bob...

 

[62MaxWedge]

This is very, very common.



What happens in the line is that it has collapsed from the inside and acts as a check valve, allowing the fluid to pass one direction and, not the other.



The best fix is to take your old rubber lines to a place that makes stainless lines (EARLS, etc) and have them make a replacement line from your sample. What this does is it keeps the lines from "ballooning" ( rubber hoses will do this) and keeps the pressure to the caliper as it should. Our race car has all braided line and the pedal feels better.



Now that it appears my truck is not going to be sold, I am thinking upgrading my lines as well.

 

[JLEONARD]

Yup. . ditto on the fact that the lines can go bad. My son has a repair shop... he sees it on a fairly regular basis.

Same with Daniel's comments about changing fluid... . do it. It prevents a host of problems down the line. (punny)



Good luck.

Jay

 

[Greenleaf]

Yeah ... puny



One of my front brake hoses had swollen to twice it's size. I replace both the front hoses. The metal line's quickly snapped off when putting a wrench to them , so I also had to replace both front brake lines. Then looked at the rear lines. They don't look like they are much better. I did bleed out the rear lines. Brown brake fluid is now clear Be sure to bleed the RWAL valve too.



A "D" model will only have two front brake hoses.

You have to save the retaining clip And they don't give you new copper washers to seal the new hose at the caliper#@$%! Luckily the fuel system has metal sealing washers for the banjo fitting that make good substitutes



-S

 

[dpuckett]

I wasnt saying the bad lines CANT cause problems; I was more questioning the motives of the mechanic for a fairly labor intensive (according the the Bible of labor rates- the Chilton Inflated Labor time/ rate manual, from which only heretic shops vary), yet simple to do proceudre. Your first post made it sound like you werent doing the work yourself.



"And they don't give you new copper washers to seal the new hose at the caliper. "



Scott- I got new washers with the hoses AND with the calipers, so I have some extras SOMEwhere. I've mved twice, so they may have been lost in the shuffle.



-DP

 

[DPelletier]

Keep in mind that every time the rotors are turned you loose thickness. The thinner they are, the quicker they warp.



Dave

 

[JMariotti]

Sounds like a good excuse to upgrade to rear disks. hehe

 

[KHarrower]

Thanks for all the replies on the brake lines. I feel a bit better after paying for a third rotor turning, and new brake lines. If this doesn't work ..... I think it will be time for new rotors and calipers. I may have the most expensive Gen I front brakes on the road soon. But I still get 21 - 23 mpg with no load, 17 with 6000 lbs in tow. I'm happy with that. Now, if I can only get the A/C working.

 

[wtrenholm]

Man, three cuts on a set of rotors? I would think they are quiet thin and are really prone to warpage now.



Check to see if they measured them and that there is enough material on them for safety and reliability.



There are some real crappy replacement rotors out there so be aware if you are shopping for new ones in the future. The cheapest may just be the cheapest.



HTH,

Wayne

 

[KHarrower]

Rotors are measured each time. Still above minimum, by quite a bit.

 

[dpuckett]

Wow, what brand rotors did you get? I cant get rotors that can be turned once- they wear down below the turn limit with normal usage w/ PFC front pads, which are supposed to be earier on rotors.



-DP