Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Wasn't the crossover tubes

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) pilot brg.

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) cruise control, ABS, Vacuum issues

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First of all, I'd like to give a big thanks to Vaughn MacKenzie for pointing out this problem and suggesting the fix...

Been having a suspected crossover tube problem for a couple of weeks. Previously, the truck could sit for 4-6 hours and would have to crank for 12-15 seconds before starting. I finally tore into it yesterday. Didn't go far when I found the problem. Got the ends of the fuel lines off and found the ends of a couple of the lines corroded. The number one line was actually corroded so bad as some pitting on the sides of the nipple. End number two was a bit corroded but not as bad. 3-6 were'nt corroded at all. All but one of the ends going into the injection pump was starting to corrode just slightly. Cleaned all the ends up with a wire brush, then went to work with some 600 grit paper. Finally finished it off with some 1000 grit paper as suggested by Vaughn. Got em all looking bright & shiny. Buttoned everything up and finally got the truck started (after having to tighten ONE of the lines off the injection pump :eek:... amazing how much fuel the vp-44 will spray out of a line if you dont get it tight). Went out to the truck this morning after it sitting for right at 12 hours and it started right up (and it was 27* out too). Once again, big thanks to Vaughn MacKenzie for the suggestions.

Craig



One quick little tip: When I finished polishing the ends of the lines, I took some brake cleaner and an old toothbrush and cleaned the 19mm hold down nut threads really well. I was able to thread the nuts all the way in with my hand. When I went to torque them down, they didn't go another third of a turn before they were all the way tight.



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Thanks for posting your experience. Hoefully that cured your ills.

I don't suppose that you pulled the crossover tubes to check them, or make sure the seats were clean?
 
I decided not to go that far. Once I saw the ends of the lines I decided to stop there and hope for the best. I've never had the crossover tubes out so I decided to leave well enough alone for now. If the problem comes back I know where to look next. IF I do end up having to go there, is there anything special I need to know or remember when removing and re-installing the tubes? Do they have to be oriented a certain way?
Thanks
Craig
 
Inspect the injector end for any creases or marks. It is near impossible to set a clocking mark on them prior to removal. I personally have never had a problem with them leaking at the injector (need to pop them loose when you change injectors).
 
Wow those are some ugly injector line tips there firefighter! Great to hear you got it licked :)

I don't deserve all the credit on that one since I read about that "fix" right here on TDR. It may have been Joe Donnelly who originally suggested it but not sure.



As for pulling injector tubes, after loosening up the injector lines and holders enough to move them out of the way I just use a small flat tip screwdriver to pry them out. They aren't too difficult to remove, they just pop out. When pushing them back in you'll usually feel them sort of snap back into position & you'll know they're seated.
 
Just another reason why I love the TDR so much. Such an extensive knowledge base. I've yet to have a problem that wasn't encountered before. And every project I've tackled has been with the help of the TDR. Every time I've been able to complete the job.
 
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