Weekend maintenance on the '01

[NIsaacs]

What did you pay for it?

I bought this one, plus $70 for the Napa Monroe Grande damper. #SC2968

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mop-52122362al

 

[Cummins12V98]

Thanks! I may do that next Spring.

 

[Matt42]

I bought this one, plus $70 for the Napa Monroe Grande damper. #SC2968

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mop-52122362al

Installed the Mopar 52122362AL t-steering linkage kit on the '01. I have been reading about them for years and wasn't sure about the fit and drivability. I see articles both ways. After driving the new truck and getting into the old one, I couldn't keep it on the road I have always had to drive it, no sight seeing with it, but since the tires never wear, I hated to fix what wasn't broke.

It was a direct fit, no mods at all. I did have to get an '08-'12 steering stabilizer but it was a direct fit also. I do have a slightly cocked steering wheel but I am out of adjustment. I should have taken the tie rod off and ground a little off the threaded end, they touch each other at the clamp sleeve. If it bugs me, I can still do that.

After a quick drive to town to pickup the stabilizer, I should have done it sooner, nice!

View attachment 131441

I am going to admit to some confusion. The steering linkage on my 1996 looks just as greasy and dirty as that from your 2001. It also looks like the same design. And my 1996 wanders when I drive it. When I have someone turn the steering wheel, the tie rod ends rotate or "pop" a little as well.

So my question here is will the MoPar replacement that you bought from Summit also fit my 1996, even though the Summit link (no pun intended) says it's for a 2013?

I've already replaced the 1996 track bar with the BD 2003 retrofit kit. Aligning the body to straighten the steering wheel was a job I didn't enjoy. Facing that again with a new linkage is a peculiar thought. And, I'm considering replacing the steering gear box with a PSC XD. So is that going to work with the replacement steering linkage? (Questions, questions.) And when my wife sees the budget for truck repairs and upgrades, to include a new dash top and seat motors & gears, I may be living with the dogs. I think we bought a whole new car for that cost, in 1979.

 

[NIsaacs]

I am going to admit to some confusion.

So my question here is will the MoPar replacement that you bought from Summit also fit my 1996, even though the Summit link (no pun intended) says it's for a 2013?

The Dodge front steering components are confusing. I have read up on numerous articles on the subject and am still unsure.

The way I understand it, the '94-'97 (y style) are all the same (diesel). Some '98-'99 used the y style, same as the '94-'97, but some '98-'99 came with the HD t-style. Not sure if they will fit the '94-'97. The kit I used will not fit the '94-'99. There is a difference in the stud tapper on the knuckles. The kit should fit the '00-'02. Since mine is an '01 I didn't spend much time reading on the earlier trucks.

I am going to see if I can align the steering wheel by changing the steering shaft to gear box splined mount. I can't remember if it has a master spline. If it wasn't for the air bag, I would pull the steering wheel and align it there.

It is amazing but my tie rod joints are still tight, 365k miles.

Some info here, same kit as I used, fits '03-'12. It also fit my '01.

https://www.genosgarage.com/product/mopr-steering-linkage-upgrade-t-style-52122362/steering-linkage

 

[Joe Mc]

Matt42, I installed PSC box a few years back. Its a beast of a box = larger and heavier than the stock one for sure. A few things to take note of: 1-it comes with spacers that install between frame and box, 2-it comes with specific pitman arm, because box has less turns (I think ½) lock to lock, to keep geometry and turning effort similar to stock and 3-if you have steering stabilizer (bolts to frame and has support bearing for stock box sector shaft) you can't reuse it, once again due to PSC box size. It was a great upgrade over stock box, but a bit of a pain to install. Tight fit and be sure to have a 2nd set of hands to help get bolts to frame started, it's heavy. I believe the pitman arm needs to be torqued to 250 lb. ft. so be sure to have a torque wrench that can accommodate. You'll love it, once its in.

 

[Matt42]

Matt42, I installed PSC box a few years back. Its a beast of a box = larger and heavier than the stock one for sure. A few things to take note of: 1-it comes with spacers that install between frame and box, 2-it comes with specific pitman arm, because box has less turns (I think ½) lock to lock, to keep geometry and turning effort similar to stock and 3-if you have steering stabilizer (bolts to frame and has support bearing for stock box sector shaft) you can't reuse it, once again due to PSC box size. It was a great upgrade over stock box, but a bit of a pain to install. Tight fit and be sure to have a 2nd set of hands to help get bolts to frame started, it's heavy. I believe the pitman arm needs to be torqued to 250 lb. ft. so be sure to have a torque wrench that can accommodate. You'll love it, once its in.

Thanks, Joe. This helps a lot.

Back in 1987, I replaced the steering box on a 1976 full size Cherokee with a rebuilt. It had some 150,000 miles on it. That was after I had adjusted the sector a couple of times. Just installing a rebuilt box helped, but it was basically the same thing with replaced parts. I sold the Jeep in 1993 and wish I had it back.

I installed a brace box on my 1996 CTD about 10 years ago, and that took up some of the uncertain feel in the steering. As to the torque wrench, no problem. I've been accumulating tools for 50 years. I inherited a clicker wrench that'll go to just over 250 lb. ft. from a man who had been, among other things, a La Salle mechanic. I had expected to use it to install new self-forming hubs on an AMC rear axle, or to try to re-use a set when they became impossible to find. Neither turned out to be necessary.

 

[Matt42]

The Dodge front steering components are confusing. I have read up on numerous articles on the subject and am still unsure.

The way I understand it, the '94-'97 (y style) are all the same (diesel). Some '98-'99 used the y style, same as the '94-'97, but some '98-'99 came with the HD t-style. Not sure if they will fit the '94-'97. The kit I used will not fit the '94-'99. There is a difference in the stud tapper on the knuckles. The kit should fit the '00-'02. Since mine is an '01 I didn't spend much time reading on the earlier trucks.

I am going to see if I can align the steering wheel by changing the steering shaft to gear box splined mount. I can't remember if it has a master spline. If it wasn't for the air bag, I would pull the steering wheel and align it there.

It is amazing but my tie rod joints are still tight, 365k miles.

Some info here, same kit as I used, fits '03-'12. It also fit my '01.

https://www.genosgarage.com/product/mopr-steering-linkage-upgrade-t-style-52122362/steering-linkage

Thanks, Nick. This helps clear the fog I was trying to see through.

As for pulling a steering wheel that has an air bag, it's not the problem that it might seem to be. Just be sure to disconnect both batteries and leave them disconnected for at least 30 minutes, and also pull the airbag fuse or fuses. But try everything else first! Center the pitman arm and see if that also centers the steering wheel. If it does, make the adjustments to the linkage. I have done some, ah, wrecking yard experiments. In some cases, there's a master spline on the top of the steering column that matches a mating notch in the steering wheel hub.

 

[Joe Mc]

Matt,
Another thing I forgot. Due to different length of PSC pitman arm you'll have to cut 1" off the tie rod to pitman arm threads or the threads will bottom to each other in the adjustment sleeve. Pretty sure it was the tie rod to pitman arm? Instructions were very thorough in my opinion. As for Nick's centering of the wheel it might be easier to pop off a rod end and trim a bit off than messing with splined ends and trying to get pitman arm off. I think, but not 100% sure, pitman arm and sector shaft are splined but 1 spline is double wide so arm only goes on one way?

 

[NIsaacs]

It was a direct fit, no mods at all.

Update, I spoke too soon. On a hard full left, the right tie rod hit the inner part of the stock OEM alloy wheel. I had to grind some off the tie rod, trial and error until no contact.

I tried to center the steering wheel at the wheel. No go, it has a master spline. So I measured the old pitman arm link and found it the same size and 1" shorter. But that didn't work either, the thread is different. So I cut a 1/2 inch off the threaded part with my reciprocating saw and now I have a centered wheel.

 

[Matt42]

Just did an install of a power steering cooler, it is a little large but I had it new on the shelf. I bought it for my old Ford (auto transmission) and then bought a new Dodge instead, (1991) so it has been on the shelf a long time.

I also wanted to check return flow...on my truck, with the steering box return line pointed at my oil drain pan, I had my wife start the truck. The flow was massive and emptied the reservoir instantly. Granted, it only holds about a pint, but in about 2 seconds the fluid turned to foamy air. If I remember right, when I would change the fluid it only required a little less than a quart. The system now holds 1.250 quarts, a good thing. Here are a couple of pictures.

View attachment 108770 View attachment 108771

Well, I finally did the installation of a power steering cooler yesterday, 11/12/2021. I had asked you ("you" in this case being NIssacs) back in January of this year if the height of the cooler ever caused the fluid to overflow at the pump's reservoir. Encouraged with your reply that it didn't, I installed a much smaller Derale cooler that I had purchased 4 years ago as a replacement or add-on for our now-gone 2007 Town & Country minivan, but never installed. It's small but probably better than no cooler.

I will eventually do a complete writeup, but here's a picture of what it looks like in front before I ran the steel & rubber lines. Being smaller actually made it more difficult to install. So I ended up taking a cue from the way that the air conditioning condenser bracket is fitted to the intercooler. Short bits and rivets can be your friends.

In the 25 years since the truck emerged from the assembly line, I thought I had found all of the factory goofs and fixed them. I was wrong. The return line from the pump had been bent against the pump housing. It was simple to bend back out, but the OEM hose had burned and fully vulcanized to the exit tube. It took a wood chisel to remove all of the carbonized hose.

I also installed a filter. It looks like there's space between the intercooler and the frame, but there isn't. So I ended up placing it very near the intercooler-to-manifold pipe. With the extra circuits, the alarm stuff and the fuel filter relocation, that side of the engine bay is beginning to take on all the serviceability convenience of our PT Cruiser.

As expected, the pump lost its prime while I was refilling the system with Royal Purple steering fluid. I was using a steel Enfield funnel shoved into a rubber line, with the other end of the system into a slops pail. So it took a little more and some burping of the line to finish. There was a little overflow under the pump reservoir cap during the bleeding process, so we'll see what happens. The long road test is next.

 

[Josparkz]

I have a bench full of parts to go on the '01 in the morning. Changed the oil and fuel filter this afternoon, too hot to do any more I like first light, nice and cool.

New radiator, 180* 12 valve fan clutch (Mopar), Raptor 150 lift pump, washer bottle and fuel canister drain valve.

View attachment 123248 View attachment 123249 View attachment 123250

How has this new radiator worked out? what brand is it and where did you get it?
Thanks.

 

[NIsaacs]

How has this new radiator worked out? what brand is it and where did you get it?
Thanks.

It has worked out well. As you know, I changed out several items in the cooling system, so I am not sure what did what. On a hot day with a load and a long hill it will still get hot, but it takes a while. I also have extra power over stock.

I bought mine from Autoplicity but I just checked and it is not in stock, Summit not in stock. I did find it at Rockauto, but the price has went up a bunch. #APDI 8011553.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=2783196

 

[Matt42]

I bought mine from Autoplicity but I just checked and it is not in stock, Summit not in stock. I did find it at Rockauto, but the price has went up a bunch. #APDI 8011553.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=2783196

The parts availability issue is a problem everywhere and for everything. A colleague in Wyoming needed to replace the radiator in her 2008. (Well, she wanted to replace it. I'm not certain it was really necessary.) She was completely unable to fine an all-aluminum radiator made by Mishimoto, or anyone else. I had to keep returning to the main issue: If the replacement radiator doesn't add fluid volume, it's not going to be much of an improvement if the old one ain't leakin'.

Eventually she found a vendor somewhere that specializes in Mercedes Benz performance parts that assured her that they had an AFE aluminum radiator in stock for her truck. The radiator is supposedly made in California. In theory, the part's in the mail. For a price, of course. In her phone call to me, where we worked out radiator options (including tossing a bucket of water on the radiator every 25 miles), she angrily said "Welcome to JB's America." You get to figure out the initials.

 

[Josparkz]

It has worked out well. As you know, I changed out several items in the cooling system, so I am not sure what did what. On a hot day with a load and a long hill it will still get hot, but it takes a while. I also have extra power over stock.

I bought mine from Autoplicity but I just checked and it is not in stock, Summit not in stock. I did find it at Rockauto, but the price has went up a bunch. #APDI 8011553.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=2783196

Thank you.

 

[Josparkz]

The parts availability issue is a problem everywhere and for everything. A colleague in Wyoming needed to replace the radiator in her 2008. (Well, she wanted to replace it. I'm not certain it was really necessary.) She was completely unable to fine an all-aluminum radiator made by Mishimoto, or anyone else. I had to keep returning to the main issue: If the replacement radiator doesn't add fluid volume, it's not going to be much of an improvement if the old one ain't leakin'.

Eventually she found a vendor somewhere that specializes in Mercedes Benz performance parts that assured her that they had an AFE aluminum radiator in stock for her truck. The radiator is supposedly made in California. In theory, the part's in the mail. For a price, of course. In her phone call to me, where we worked out radiator options (including tossing a bucket of water on the radiator every 25 miles), she angrily said "Welcome to JB's America." You get to figure out the initials.

Can't do the bucket of water every 25 miles option. We have a severe water shortage . And we can't even Blame that on the guy with the initials BO. <LOL>

 

[Joe Mc]

As to the bucket of water every 25 miles idea. A RoadKill idea for sure here -> 2 gallon garden pump sprayer, cut wand after trigger (keep sprayer and trigger in-cab), run hose out to radiator, nozzle wire tied top center of radiator. When temps start to get too hot give a 20 second blast from the sprayer. At least you could preserve water and not have to stop every 25 miles or so. FJB

 

[Josparkz]

As to the bucket of water every 25 miles idea. A RoadKill idea for sure here -> 2 gallon garden pump sprayer, cut wand after trigger (keep sprayer and trigger in-cab), run hose out to radiator, nozzle wire tied top center of radiator. When temps start to get too hot give a 20 second blast from the sprayer. At least you could preserve water and not have to stop every 25 miles or so. FJB

Excellent engineering.

 

[gsbrockman]

As to the bucket of water every 25 miles idea. A RoadKill idea for sure here -> 2 gallon garden pump sprayer, cut wand after trigger (keep sprayer and trigger in-cab), run hose out to radiator, nozzle wire tied top center of radiator. When temps start to get too hot give a 20 second blast from the sprayer. At least you could preserve water and not have to stop every 25 miles or so. FJB

Saw that episode on Sunday

 

[Josparkz]

Saw that episode on Sunday

Which show is that?

 

[gsbrockman]

Which show is that?

https://www.motortrend.com/roadkill/