What is considered "frequent trailer towing"

[CoastyAV8R]

I didn't know this for about a year after owning my truck but there is a function under the trailer towing in the gauge package where you set the amount of braking force for your trailer, if you scroll down it will tell you how many miles your trailer has been hooked up to your truck and it is resettable. That right there should give you a pretty good idea of how much you actually tow if the TDR Brain Trust can figure out what exactly is considered frequent towing.

 

[gsbrockman]

Frequent towing equals 51% or more??????

Just a hunch.

 

[Wiredawg]

Frequent towing equals 51% or more??????

Just a hunch.

Yep. I think it's harder for the folks who dual purpose their trucks with towing and every day use. For me and you it's easy to calculate on our C&Cs. For me, that's how I keep low mileage on my 5500, just about 15K miles /year pulling the RV. Will be shy of that this year due to my surgery. Hoping to do the Southeast end of September.

Cheers, Ron

 

[AH64ID]

Frequent towing equals 51% or more??????

Just a hunch.

I would take that as majority, not frequent.

Frequent is a repeated event, it could be once a week but only 10% of the miles.

 

[Cummins12V98]

"If you have reason to believe that it is any different for the 68rfe or the Aisin, the burden of proof is on you."

Thanks for the reply. Still does not show anything for the 68 or AISIN. Remember "I" want to do full fluid changes. I am the one being criticized for "over maintaining" my vehicle as an esteemed colleague here says is good.

We can debate this for ever so let's let everyone do what is best for them.

 

[kthaxton]

"If you have reason to believe that it is any different for the 68rfe or the Aisin, the burden of proof is on you."

Thanks for the reply. Still does not show anything for the 68 or AISIN.

The point is, as has been explained ad nauseam, it demonstrates what is considered "fluid change", and how it has been for decades. You keep saying "show me where it says change part of the fluid", so I just did. Again, if you think Ram/Dodge suddenly changed their definition of what that service means, the burden of truth is on you.

Remember "I" want to do full fluid changes. I am the one being criticized for "over maintaining" my vehicle as an esteemed colleague here says is good.

We can debate this for ever so let's let everyone do what is best for them.

And you still don't get it, pay close attention now........It's just peachy if you want to do full changes, but you ARE NOT being criticized because you like to over due things, you are being criticized because you keep saying the normal, RECOMMENDED way is half azzed. Further, in the past, you went on and on with statements like "why would I want to only change part of the fluid, would you only change part of your engine oil?" Which totally demonstrates your ignorance in the matter, while you assumed everyone else were the ignorant ones.

 

[dieselshadow]

 

[AH64ID]

Thanks for the reply. Still does not show anything for the 68 or AISIN.

I did follow up that 47RE/RH post with '08 68RFE and AS68RC info, and it's the same. The FSM does not call for anything but a partial fluid change. If you have found a FSM that shows it's different for newer than '08 then post it up.

If not I'll post the '18 FSM when I get it, probably late next spring.

 

[dieselshadow]

I found this is the owner’s manual.

Circled here.

 

[Larry Sciblo]

I also like the section under "COOLING". To reduce the potential for engine and transmission overheating, take the following actions:
In city traffic - while stopped, place the transmission in NEUTRAL. ???????? Really ???? I know there are aftermarket companies that make upgrades to the 68RFE (and others) to IMPROVE the cooling (saying its design has flaws that cause failure due to overheating) REMAX comes to mind with their Cooler Thermostatic Bypass Upgrade, Spin on filter steel screw (to replace the plastic one) and as a bunch have come up with deep (adding 3-4 qts ATF) machined pans with drain plugs and gaskets (what a concept). I know these guys are trying to sell products and their marketing is for us truck owners who care....to avoid a catastrophic (and expensive) failure of our transmission's. So the real question is this: Is it all really necessary?

 

[kthaxton]

They are saying neutral as opposed to leaving in Drive with your foot on the brake. When you leave it in gear with your foot on the brake, it keeps the torque converter 'slipping' which generates heat. Those aftermarket product will not change that.

 

[Larry Sciblo]

They are saying neutral as opposed to leaving in Drive with your foot on the brake. When you leave it in gear with your foot on the brake, it keeps the torque converter 'slipping' which generates heat. Those aftermarket product will not change that.

Yeah...I understand what they are saying, not really concerned about the transmission overheating while sitting at a stop light. I just thought it was funny, FCA would put that in the manual. This whole thread has been about towing and transmission upgrades and maintenance.

 

[Newsa]

I also like the section under "COOLING". To reduce the potential for engine and transmission overheating, take the following actions:
In city traffic - while stopped, place the transmission in NEUTRAL. ???????? Really ???? I know there are aftermarket companies that make upgrades to the 68RFE (and others) to IMPROVE the cooling (saying its design has flaws that cause failure due to overheating) REMAX comes to mind with their Cooler Thermostatic Bypass Upgrade, Spin on filter steel screw (to replace the plastic one) and as a bunch have come up with deep (adding 3-4 qts ATF) machined pans with drain plugs and gaskets (what a concept). I know these guys are trying to sell products and their marketing is for us truck owners who care....to avoid a catastrophic (and expensive) failure of our transmission's. So the real question is this: Is it all really necessary?

There goes the theory that automatics are more efficient than manual transmissions

 

[JR]

There goes the theory that automatics are more efficient than manual transmissions

Try leaving your G56 engaged in gear at a stop light and let us know how it goes

 

[Newsa]

Try leaving your G56 engaged in gear at a stop light and let us know how it goes

I can leave it in gear with the clutch pedal depressed with no problem. But i usually like to put it in neutral and let loose the clutch pedal. I hear putting it in neutral is better on the (throw out) bearings.

Changing the gears on my G56 doesn't shake the whole truck and put a shock through the whole driveline like some if those hard shifts i hear about from some of the automatics and like putting it in neutral at a stop light or stop sign at a busy intersection.

The danger that it will overheat when stopped and motionless shows that it is poorly designed. In the 2000's they should have redesigned the automatics to be more efficient and should have a way to gradually engage & disengage themselves (disengage for 30-60 seconds) while the brake pedal is depressed and the speed is zero.

They have the technology for cars to drive themselvea and for cars to turn their engines off for 30-60 seconds at a stop light, but they can't design an automatic transmission not to overheat?

It is old technology, that's why it's inefficient.

 

[gsbrockman]

Jeeeeezus H. Kriste.......it’s truly a MIRACLE that my 2014 3500 AS69RC made it to 362k miles.....and that my 2018 4500 AS69RC is at 154k miles without melting to the ground as a molten, distorted, blob of metal.

Time to rev up Auto Trader and see if I can find a leftover 4500 or 5500 G56 on the lot somewhere......ASAP.

 

[JR]

Again, what happens when you come to a stop light with a manual trans, oh yea take it out of gear. I'll bet almost nobody puts their auto transmission in neutral at a traffic light unless sitting for several minutes, and then it's more about not having to hold the brake then anything. Heat is a result of fluid passing through the converter when in gear, take it out of gear and the fluid shearing (heat) stops. It's not a difficult concept, nor any reason to cry wolf

 

[Cummins12V98]

Again, what happens when you come to a stop light with a manual trans, oh yea take it out of gear. I'll bet almost nobody puts their auto transmission in neutral at a traffic light unless sitting for several minutes, and then it's more about not having to hold the brake then anything. Heat is a result of fluid passing through the converter when in gear, take it out of gear and the fluid shearing (heat) stops. It's not a difficult concept, nor any reason to cry wolf

With the 4 speed auto that’s a good idea. Not needed with the current 68 of AISIN.

 

[dieselshadow]

I was stuck in traffic behind an accident this afternoon. Didn’t move for a bit more than 30 minutes. Watched the trans temp gauge the entire time with it in gear, it didn’t move a single degree..... 158

I can’t wait until Monday morning to get a warranty service appointment.

 

[RCapehart]

The 07.5 6.7 w/68RFE that I had you could watch the trans temps climb when setting still with the trans in drive or park.. it would go up and up. This new to me 2013 6.7 w/68RFE is not affected by setting still in drive. I have actually seen it cool off a couple degrees when setting still in drive or in park. It also runs a lot cooler solo and towing a 9000lb camper then the 07.5 did.