Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Which DDP's for towing?

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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission hub tool

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My buddy has a 02' 3500,4x4,NV4500, and 410 gears. He's got the latest software on the smarty, S&B CAI, airdog 100, southbend on the way, and boost fooler with the waste gate unhooked. He tows often and usually heavy(20,000 +). Fuel pressure is never under 14 psi, boost is about 30 psi, and egt's never exceed 1200. It seems he's still not getting enough fuel, so should he get DDP's 75 hp, or the 110's. There's only $15 difference, but with the stock turbo maybe the 110's are to much. He said he could eventually get a turbo or turbos but would have to wait right now. The smarty is on SW 9, TQ 6, TI 2, and duration 5. I figured with the smarty about maxed out it would be more than enough b/c it makes a huge difference on my 04'. It pulls good but just seems like it could be better.
 
I'd go with the 110hp. I have them on my truck. I'd just recommend turning the smarty down if your concerned about the turbo. I have 110hp, intake, exhaust and edge juice.

Truck runs and pulls darn good. Havent had any turbo issues. Just need to watch egts and boost levels on a stock turbo.
 
I am certainly no turbo expert, in fact far from it, but if he is running 1200 F EGT now, I would think he would want to go with a different turbo setup (a larger single or twins) before injecting additional fuel. Just my $. 02 worth.
 
My egts do get high if I have it on a high setting but you just have to compensate your chip/programmer if you stay with a stock turbo
 
Talked with DDP last week and they reccomended the 75's so thats what we got. They also suggested getting rid of the smarty and getting an edge comp, but he's going to stick with the smarty for now. I wrote down the egts wrong, it doesn't get over 900 instead of 1200.
 
Talked with DDP last week and they reccomended the 75's so thats what we got. They also suggested getting rid of the smarty and getting an edge comp, but he's going to stick with the smarty for now. I wrote down the egts wrong, it doesn't get over 900 instead of 1200.

Evidently the probe is after the turbo. I would strongly recommend a turbo upgrade now and would not let it get over 900F until then (which is about 1200F post turbo). Adding 300F or so to the pyro reading is not a safe "rule of thumb" method of determining actual EGT.
 
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