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Dyantrac free spin / Carli Ball Joint Install

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Hey Sean!

Good to hear from you... hope all is well with you and Suzy!

As if I haven't taken the photography off topic enough already... Try putting your camera guy a little closer to the RR tracks next time. Not closer as in, in the street closer, but place him at the landing zone up the street 10-15'.

Follow the truck with the camera as it leads up the the tracks. Track the truck all the way through the air.

Set the camera on "Shutter Priority", drop it down to 1/90th and run it in continuous shutter mode (holding the button down so it will fire of 3-5 continuous shot).

It's called slow panning. The background gets blurred and you look like your moving 100mph

Thanks for the tips! You're pictures look great! Do you do the photography or your wife?

My new bride took the pictures (just got married March 20th) with our new camera, a Nikon D3000. I'm just getting into the photography world, so I'm open for tips for sure! We had it on the Landscape setting on continuous mode, using an 18 - 55 VR zoom lens. I'll try out what you suggested!

Where are you living now? We're going on an extended honeymoon road trip to Alaska in July, and would love to stop by if you guys are reasonably close along the way!

Take Care,

Eric
 
I saw your open honeymoon itinerary in July. Congrads on getting hitched! We'll be in Utah at the Lucas Oil race about that time, June 26th. Maybe we can hook up at the race and get you on the track for an hour or so as our second shooter? I'll see what I can do. Let me know if you can make it on that weekend. No promises except for lunch on us. -- email address removed --
 
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Just finished replacing both front wheel bearings, three u-joints and the carrier bearing on my 03 HO 3500 SRW 4WD. That solved one issue, but the shop says BJs are needed to stop a slight right drift. The truck is a 6-spd, has exactly 100k on it, and has never been mistreated. I have 19. 5" wheels, but no other engine/suspension upgrades. The front end shop quotes $1100 (5 hours labor) to do the job using OEM BJs. I'm thinking about Carli uppers and lowers. Shop says fine, but do not get the adjustable version, which doesn't work well with solid axle Dodges. Do you have any thoughts on this, and if so, where did you buy your Carli BJs.

BTW, still mightily impressed with your post!!!
 
Hey!

I'd recommend the Carli BJs over anything out there! All of the Carli's are non-adjustable, so nothing to worry about there.

For purchasing, contact Carli Suspension directly at 714-532-2798.

Or, if you want to order online, try KLM Performance Inc. - Online Store for KLMPerformance.com - Dodge Suspension

KLM has $800 for both uppers and lowers and free shipping.

I'd definately recommend doing it once, and being done with it! You may check around at a few shops. I would think you could find someone to install new BJs for $200 - $300 easily!

Thanks, Eric
 
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Kind of off topic. .



But it looks like you have the mopar upgraded steering linkage? If you do, what do you have for a steering stabilizer. I have the upgraded steering linkage, but I am not sure if my high mount bilstein steering stabilizer will work.



thanks again



BTW, great write up!!
 
Kind of off topic. .

But it looks like you have the mopar upgraded steering linkage? If you do, what do you have for a steering stabilizer. I have the upgraded steering linkage, but I am not sure if my high mount bilstein steering stabilizer will work.

Hey Dean!

Yes, I do have the upgraded '08 steering. I'm using the Carli high mount bilstein stablizer, along with the Carli 7100 bilstein that goes in the factory location. The both work great with the '08 steering. For the one that goes in the factory location, make sure that the bracket is slid as far to the driver's side as possible before tightening it down.

--Eric
 
Kind of off topic. .



But it looks like you have the mopar upgraded steering linkage? If you do, what do you have for a steering stabilizer. I have the upgraded steering linkage, but I am not sure if my high mount bilstein steering stabilizer will work.



thanks again



BTW, great write up!!
I had the highmount on my pre-upgraded suspension. I had to purchase the larger billet collar to fit the upgraded stouter suspension. I'm running it and the Mopar stocker in the stock location. I get the major left drift with the Bilstein 7100 unless I drastically lower the pressure. I'm only running 285-75-17's.
 
I had the highmount on my pre-upgraded suspension. I had to purchase the larger billet collar to fit the upgraded stouter suspension. I'm running it and the Mopar stocker in the stock location. I get the major left drift with the Bilstein 7100 unless I drastically lower the pressure. I'm only running 285-75-17's.



I asked Carli about the left drift, they told me to lower the psi in the high mount to 140 psi. They also told me that the mopar one is useless with the high mount installed. Maybe that is something you can try instead of adjusting the tire psi
 
Hey Dean!



Yes, I do have the upgraded '08 steering. I'm using the Carli high mount bilstein stablizer, along with the Carli 7100 bilstein that goes in the factory location. The both work great with the '08 steering. For the one that goes in the factory location, make sure that the bracket is slid as far to the driver's side as possible before tightening it down.



--Eric



Ok just makin sure, do you find that you need to use 2 steering stabilizers? I know that the mopar stabilizer won't work with the 08 upgraded steering. The brakcett that you are talking about, is it the one that is U-bolted onto the linkage?
 
Mopar has a steering stablizer that will work with the upgraded steering. A little pricey but they have one. I installed one on my truck when I upgraded the steering and it works well.

Jay
 
Thats cool Eric!

Very generous to share all those pics indeed.

Your 1" wider wheels combined with the shorter style hub give an OEM look to the kit.

I have had U joints like those froze in big time and once resorted to the torch cuz I needed to get the job done but what a mess that is too with melting grease, seals, smoke and keeping things cool!



I discovered this tool after the torch incident and it works very well, presses one cap at a time and is very strong.



#ad
 
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Ok just makin sure, do you find that you need to use 2 steering stabilizers? I know that the mopar stabilizer won't work with the 08 upgraded steering. The brakcett that you are talking about, is it the one that is U-bolted onto the linkage?

I'm not CERTAIN that I need two... but it sure helps. I'm running 37" tires and am probably a little harder on the truck than most folks, so a little overkill never hurts! I do know alot of people just run the high mount with great success though.

Yes, the bracket I referenced is the one U-bolted to the linkage. There is a small flat spot on the linkage... slide the u-bolted bracket as far to the driver's side as possible while still staying on the flat.

--Eric
 
Very generous to share all those pics indeed.
Your 1" wider wheels combined with the shorter style hub give an OEM look to the kit.
I have had U joints like those froze in big time and once resorted to the torch cuz I needed to get the job done but what a mess that is too with melting grease, seals, smoke and keeping things cool!

I discovered this tool after the torch incident and it works very well, presses one cap at a time and is very strong.

Wow... I think I may have to pick up one of those tools! Thanks for the link!

--Eric
 
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I asked Carli about the left drift, they told me to lower the psi in the high mount to 140 psi. They also told me that the mopar one is useless with the high mount installed. Maybe that is something you can try instead of adjusting the tire psi
Carli delivered the Bilstein w/135 psi. I still got the major left drift. I was referring to adjusting the Bilstein 7100,not the tire pressure. Source Automotive offers a Rancho ss when they sell the new steering. If you're not running 35"+ tires that might do it.
 
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Great write up and pictures. . I am leaning towards Dynatrac hubs and ball joints as I have just discovered I need to replace the passenger side factory hub.

Might as well do both sides.

Les Schwab wants $850 to do both sides but replacing the factory hubs and bearings with the same thing.

My truck has only72k on it and has not been used to haul heavy equipment or a 5th wheel.

How can they make such a great looking truck with crap cheap equipment... .

I am book marking this page for future reference.

Thanks
 
Very generous to share all those pics indeed.

Your 1" wider wheels combined with the shorter style hub give an OEM look to the kit.

I have had U joints like those froze in big time and once resorted to the torch cuz I needed to get the job done but what a mess that is too with melting grease, seals, smoke and keeping things cool!



I discovered this tool after the torch incident and it works very well, presses one cap at a time and is very strong.



#ad



Matt,



Will the model linked above, 10104, work on the axle joints on our trucks? I don't know the cup diameter and wanted to make sure this is the exact one you have and use. I'm going to try it out if it is.



Thanks!
 
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