Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Loss of power

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) 2000 5.9L question HELP

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Stuck Duals

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I just had a problem with a sudden loss of power,very bad hesitation. I have great fuel pressure and a new VP44 also a fass system. While checking things tonight I got a 0237,1693 codes. Question is,where do I go from here. Map sensor change? Napa says not avalable. Any help would be greatfull.
 
More than likely it's the MAP sensor. They do occasionally go bad with the exact symptoms you described.



Cummins sells them. The part number is 4921505. You can buy one online from Hoesli Diesel for $89. 07.



If you want to do some electrical troubleshooting tests to verify there's nothing wrong with the wiring harness before installing a new sensor, I can post instructions. Just let me know.



Good luck,



John L.
 
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I would like to check the wires first just to make sure.
Charles,

Grab a multimeter and do the following:

Test 1

1. Disconnect the MAP sensor connector.
2. Turn the ignition key ON.
3. Measure the voltage between socket "A" and "B" of the MAP sensor connector.
4. Turn ignition OFF.

You should measure 4. 5 volts or higher in the above test.

Test 2

1. Make sure the ignition if OFF.
2. Disconnect the MAP sensor connector and the ECM's 50-pin connector.
3. Measure the resistance between socket "C" of the MAP sensor connector and socket 8 of the ECM's 50-pin connector. The wire you'll be checking is grey with a red stripe.

The resistance should be less than 5 Ohms.

If either of these tests fails, let me know and I can help you troubleshoot further. If they both pass, then you can safely assume the MAP sensor is malfunctioning and should be replaced.

Best regards,

John L.

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Bringing this back to the top as I have had the 0237 code for a while... I replaced the Boost sensor and still have the code and limp mode. The only other code is the companion code 1693.



Is the likely that I have an issue with the wiring harness? I will not be able to get to the truck to pull the voltage differences as outlined above until this evening. The truck is the '01 in my signature line.



Thanks.
 
I was able to sneak out to my truck to test pull the MAP sensor connection test:

A-B = 0. 1 V dc
A-C = 2. 9V initially and bled down to . 2V upon DMM connection
B-C = 5. 0V dc

Does the A-B connection indicate a wiring harness issue? I wasn't able to pull the ECM plug at this time.
 
I was able to sneak out to my truck to test pull the MAP sensor connection test:



A-B = 0. 1 V dc

A-C = 2. 9V initially and bled down to . 2V upon DMM connection

B-C = 5. 0V dc



Does the A-B connection indicate a wiring harness issue? I wasn't able to pull the ECM plug at this time.
Nich,



It sounds like maybe you could be confusing the sockets on the MAP sensor connector.



Orange wire -> Socket A = 5v Supply

Black/Lt. Blue wire -> Socket B = Ground

Grey/Red wire -> Socket C = MAP Signal



As mentioned before, with the ignition ON, you should have 5 volts between sockets A and B. It sounds like you did, but possibly you thought you were measuring pins B and C instead? I don't see any other way you could measure 5 volts at the MAP connector... unless something is really screwed up with the wiring.



Measuring 5 volts at the MAP sensor connector is only half the battle though. To verify you don't have something wrong with the wiring harness, you really need to check for continuity (an unbroken connection) between socket C of the MAP sensor connector and the ECM connector. To do this you'll need to disconnect the 50-pin connector at the ECM and figure out which socket there is number 8 (Hint: follow the grey / red wire into the ECM connector and count the sockets from the corner).



If everything checks out with the wiring harness, then you could either really have very low boost pressure which can trigger the P0237 DTC, or the ECM is bad.



Do you have a gauge installed to verify the boost pressure?



Keep us posted,



John L.
 
Yes, I have a boost gauge and the boost is terribly low when the truck is in limp mode. It won't fuel. Occasionally, the truck will come out of limp mode for a short time and boost will reach nearly 30 PSI.

I will follow the wires for the MAP Plug connector and test it again. I thought I was testing it according to the orientation that was given in your diagram above with the plug-lock oriented up.

Thanks for the response.
 
Yes, I have a boost gauge and the boost is terribly low when the truck is in limp mode. It won't fuel. Occasionally, the truck will come out of limp mode for a short time and boost will reach nearly 30 PSI.



I will follow the wires for the MAP Plug connector and test it again. I thought I was testing it according to the orientation that was given in your diagram above with the plug-lock oriented up.



Thanks for the response.
Nich,



That diagram comes from the Dodge Service Manual, so I'm not sure of the orientation. Be sure and check the wire colors to verify the sockets.



Good luck with the testing!



John L.
 
Bringing this back to the top as I have had the 0237 code for a while... I replaced the Boost sensor and still have the code and limp mode... .



Low power and limp mode are two radically different things.



Limp mode = Acceleration? Whats that, I just got spanked by an overloaded semi and I have the pedal floored. The tree hugger on the mountain bike came in a close second. Top speed IIRC is 40-50mph.



If you truly are in limp mode, then you have something serious going on. If it's low power, we should be able to find it.
 
Nich,

That diagram comes from the Dodge Service Manual, so I'm not sure of the orientation. Be sure and check the wire colors to verify the sockets.

Good luck with the testing!

John L.

I finally tested the continuity of the boost plug to the ECM plug... NO Continuity on the Gray/Red wire. Just to verify, the wire looked to be in the plug location 8 on the top row on the ECM plug. The AB cross yielded 5 VDC once I followed the proper wire colors.

Is the proper fix to replace the wiring harness or tear into the plugs, etc. ?

Sticks... Good question. I think Low Power best describes the situation as I can top 50mph unloaded, but not very quickly. I couldn't top 50 with a light trailer.

Over the past few weeks with the new boost sensor, it has been very intermittent as to when I will have power and when I will not. This may be well described by a broken wire that is intermittently making contact.

Any chance this is related the Banks controller?

Thanks for your inputs.
 
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It has been so long since I hooked up a Banks product... If they had you tap into the wire, that is the suspect point. If the wire or circuit was unmolested then start looking for rub through or pinches in the harness between the MAP sensor and the ECM and PCM starting at the plug itself (bent male pins/spread female sockets, breaks where the wire connects to the pin).

If you are indeed checking for continuity between the MAP sensor and the PCM plug on the correct wire, then you will have to tear into the harness and start carefully examining the wire for possible break points and may even have to go as far as piercing the insulation at various points to find the location of the break. Either buy a quality DVM probe for this, or use a small sewing "T" pin. Prepare to feel like a diabetic. Depending on the age and condition of the wire, the insulation may self heal, but you will still want to patch the pierce points with silicone and electrical tape or liquid electrical tape.

If you keep the DVM connected to the wire on both ends and watch the meter as you are fussing with the harness it may help you find the break if it starts reacting as you are molesting the wire.

I just had to track down a wiring issue with an old Mack truck. Communication error between two of the controllers. I was able to isolate it to the main harness in the cab (1 3/4 diameter harness and 10 plugs behind a kick panel) Nothing obvious as a wear through, but could get the truck and scanner to act up as I massaged the harness. Turned out to be mild corrosion on two of the female pins inside two separate plugs. Thank god I get paid by the hour as it was a 4 hour ordeal and I was very lucky as it started acting up as soon as I pulled the kick panel.
 
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