2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Help with front axle unit bearing install...

[wlowe]

I got my unit bearing in the mail today and I have a couple of questions for you guys who have installed these before.



First question, is it easier to remove the hub/axle nut before I jack up the wheel or should I wait until I remove the tire and stick a screwdriver between the ujoint and knuckle to stop the axle from turning.



Second question, should I pull the brake caliper and caliper bracket off as one unit or is it easier to remove them seperately.



Thanks for the help!

 

[BSeyler]

Keep it on the ground until you have the nuts loose. Do you have a 3/4" drive set? I started to bend the T handle on my 3/4" set (with a 4' cheater pipe on it) and ended up heating the nuts to get them loose.

Bud

 

[wlowe]

Keep it on the ground until you have the nuts loose. Do you have a 3/4" drive set? I started to bend the T handle on my 3/4" set (with a 4' cheater pipe on it) and ended up heating the nuts to get them loose.



Bud

I've got a Proto 3/4 inch breaker bar and Proto six point impact socket, may have to get a cheater pipe. Did you try using penetrant?

 

[BSeyler]

I did. I don't have a 3/4" drive impact wrench and a 1/2" wouldn't have done it. So, the only thing I had left to do was use heat. Both of them popped pretty loud when they turned loose.

 

[fest3er]

The axle nut torque is 172 ft-lb or more. Leave the tire on the ground to loosen it. A stout 1/2" breaker bar *can* do the job if you carefully use a cheater pipe.

Remove the caliper and hang it aside. Caliper bracket stays in place.

Loosen the hub bolts 1/4" or so and put a socket with extension on the lower front bolt; you'll see a suitable 'stop' to use there. Then use the truck's power steering to pop the hub free: steady hard pressure, not a sudden hit.

Hope you have a hefty press to push the lug bolts out. They're in there quite solidly.

 

[wlowe]

OK, I've got my truck on jacks. Before jacking up the tire I broke the hub nut loose with a 3/4" breaker bar and a 3 foot cheater bar, no heat was needed, just some penetrating oil.



So I'm looking at the speed sensor wire and how it winds its way into the engine compartment and I realize it's going to be PITA to get to the plug. Is it necessary to replace this wire or can I just hook the old wire into the new hub? Thanks for the help!

 

[Ramtuf1]

I replaced both front wheel bearing hubs and the new ones came with new ABS sensors already installed. Pulled out the old ones and installed the new hubs, sensors and all. I had problem with ABS modulating when coming to a stop at around 5 mph or so. New sensors on both sides didn't cure the problem. New hub bearings did. No problems since.



Use the power steering press trick. Works like a charm. Oo.

 

[TRoe]

I did the unit bearings and ball joints on my 02 about a year ago, and want to add my $. 02 about the steering-as-a-press idea. If it goes fairly easy while trying this, then go right ahead, but... My wife is pretty strong and with her reefing on the steering wheel, the unit bearing wouldn't budge at all, even after a few soakings of PB Blaster. It makes me shudder as to the amount of force being applied to so many steering system parts, which is why I personally would avoid it. What worked for me was to pickle fork the ball joints loose, cut the joints with a sawzall and a metal blade (about 3 minutes per ball joint), remove the assembly from the truck, and use a hydraulic press.

That's assuming you are changing your ball joints at the same time, of course... .