2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Fuel Additive

[hpyman123]

Just moved back to Oklahoma City from Phoenix and was wondering if I should be putting any additives in my fuel for the cold weather that will be here soon. This will be the first cold winter for my truck so I have no history to go by. For the past several years I have always added a quart of 30W oil to the fuel when I fill up. Was wondering if that would cause a gelling problem at cold temps.

 

[RBeard]

I'm east of austin and I run power service in every tank just to make up for what's missing in the new diesel. It gets down to the teens and I've never had any problems,even when I mix WVO or other stuff with it.

 

[GAmes]

The fuel in OK will be blended for current conditions. The only time you need an additive is if you are going north, and then only in the aux tank if you have one. The fuel that bypasses the IP is heated and goes back into your tank while driving, which keeps the main tank from gelling. I wonder how much carbon is inside your cylinders from all that motor oil.

 

[bheiting]

The fuel in your area is blended for the climate. You are asking for trouble putting anything in your tank that isn't designed to be there. Motor oil is not the kind of lube your injection system needs. I put in a bottle of Fleet Guard fuel additive once in a while for lubricity.

 

[bromano676]

I have been using stanadyne performance formula

works good, i have not had any problems, and i get better mileage with it

 

[hpyman123]

Thanks for all of your replies. I want to address the motor oil issue. This wasn't something I started as a lark. I had several diesel gurus who do everything from sleds to pullers and towing competitions as well as daily drivers tell me that good ole 30w oil is a good, cheap alternative to other expensive lubrication additives. If you think about it 1 qt to 30 gals of fuel = 120 to 1 mix ratio. Now I'm no chemist but I have mixed my share of fuels and know that this is a pretty small ratio of oil to fuel. My truck has run like a top and without any noticeable increase of smoke or any other anomaly. I read all the time about people complaining about how bad the fuel is nowadays. I've had more than one source tell that what I'm doing is beneficial for the truck.

 

[GAmes]

I've had more than one source tell that what I'm doing is beneficial for the truck.

I'm sure you could find more than one source that says ATF, or 2 cycle oil, or acetone, or gasoline in the winter, is beneficial, but that doesn't make it true. The fact is that "how bad the fuel is nowadays" is a lot of internet hype started by some moron who posted that sulphur is a lubricant. Then the additive companies jumped on the band wagon, some idiot on the Duramax forum posted a bogus study and all of a sudden people were dumping all kinds of crap into their tanks. I had my injection pump worked on at 750k miles because it was leaking oil from an external seal. NOT ONE fuel lubed part needed replacement. The only time I put any additive (and then only diesel anti-gel) in my tanks is when I buy fuel in the south and am going north in the winter. I don't add anything to the fuel I buy up north, it is already blended.

 

[dcoffman]

GAmes, I got fuel in North Adams Mass. a few years ago and it gelled the next morning. There was a Furd filling up next to me and he put in 1/2 kero. I should had done that >but then there's the dye<. When it started stumbling the next morning I let it idle and poured in 2 cans of antigel. So fuel is not also blended to protect.
BTW thanks for your service.

 

[Tractorat]

GAmes,

Its my understanding that it is the trucks with the VP44 that really requite a lube additive such as stanadyne. Doesnt your truck use a mechanical IP ?

 

[GAmes]

GAmes, I got fuel in North Adams Mass. a few years ago and it gelled the next morning. There was a Furd filling up next to me and he put in 1/2 kero. I should had done that >but then there's the dye<. When it started stumbling the next morning I let it idle and poured in 2 cans of antigel. So fuel is not also blended to protect.

BTW thanks for your service.

OK, I'll admit that the fuel is not always blended, but it should be. That is why I buy fuel at high turnover stations, like truckstops.



By Kero, do you mean #1 diesel? If so, it shouldn't be dyed, unless it is off road fuel. Not many stations have separate pumps for #1 and #2 anymore, thus the blending.



I may get a lesson in gelling tomorrow morning. I bought my fuel in TX where it was 80. Here in CO it is supposed to be 17 in the morning I haven't bought any anti-gel additive yet this year, I may regret it.



Thanks, it was my pleasure to serve.

 

[GAmes]

GAmes,

Its my understanding that it is the trucks with the VP44 that really requite a lube additive such as stanadyne. Doesnt your truck use a mechanical IP ?

Yes, 12 valves have a mechanical pump. I do not believe you will find any manufacturer of injection systems that will state that their componants require an additive. If you buy a new or reman VP44 does the seller require you to use an additive for warranty coverage?

 

[Tractorat]

. If you buy a new or reman VP44 does the seller require you to use an additive for warranty coverage?

Im guessing probably not. The only places Ive heard about the req for an additive was on the tdr, but also from a couple of shops in the area that have good reputations and specialize in diesel trucks.

 

[GHarman]

Stanadyne is available at Central Motive Power at 6301 North Broadway, Denver. I 've been using this fuel additive for 1 year. Works GREAT!
In addition, use Walmart Supertech(Blue jug) 2 stroke oil for lubricity additive.
Used other stuff before. This is all available locally. I'm running a 1st Gen with the VE pump and some mods that can easily overfuel and cause black smoke at the slightest acceleration. Since the Stanodyne, The exhaust is cleaned up considerably and the engine runs very quiet!
Newer trucks may not benefit from fuel additives, but I've never had a failure to start in all the years I have been running a 1st generation Cummins(20+).
I live at 9000' elevation and it does get chilly up here at times:-laf.
I would like to try Amalgamated additives, but the bulk order requirement, hazmat and shipping, prices it out of my budget. GregH

 

[EForbes]

Diesel power service fuel additive is ok, and true sulphur is not a lube, lets get that straight. I do research for a living for an oil company, and have consulted many engineers on the subject, 1. Acetone will eat pump seals2. 2-stroke is a lube, but not required, when the new diesel was formulated, it included a new lube, a bunch of additives poured into your tank, will just leave gunk on valves and injector face. Most oily additives result in less fuel mileage. diesel locomotives that get their fuel from us because they are accross the street, have 6k horse engines, and they dont add anything in their 5000 gal fuel tanks. Spill some new diesel from a can on your fingers, its plenty slippery, and im sure we have all seen the oily residue at the pumps at the gas station.

 

[Tractorat]

EForbes,

Its all magic to me. I turn the key, there is noise up in the front, and step on a pedal, and it goes. In other words, I have no technical expertise here.



So, if you say that the VP44 does not need an additive, to what do you attribute the failure of so many VP44's ? I would prefer to not add any additives if it is a waste of money. Diesel is too expensive as it is.



And BTW, I dont accept the argument that they wouldn't sell the diesel if it wasn't good for our engines. They sell ethanol gas, which makes cards built before roughly 2000 run rough and get at least 10% worse gas mileage.

 

[EForbes]

True on the ethanol it is made for flex fuel vehicles which have a computer that can change pulse width and timing when using etanol. Most VP44 failures can be attributed to tapped pumps, and low fuel pressure, the fuel is there to cool the pump, not just lube it. Also alot of reman. VP pumps do not come with new electronics, thats cause for the computer codes on alot of them. They come stamped reman, but have the same computer on top that has gone through many, many heat cycles, its like putting your old computer guts in a new case, not gonna last long. im sure some have scarring, but i bet its more to do with low fuel pressure than anything else. i have 164k on my original pump, but i maintain above 13 psi at WOT with comp on 5x5, i am not saying that what you say is incorrect, excuse me if you thought that. i was just giving some info to help.

 

[Tractorat]

Thanks EForbes, just picking your brain. I have an Edge EZ on my truck, and that is all. It is not tapped. The stock lift pump went out at about 50k. Dodge did a warrantee replacement of the LP. The VP went out soon after that (it was probably already out. With the new LP and VP, I could drop the fuel pressure to under 5lbs by yomping on it. So, I had another LP mounted in parallel on the frame. Cant remember what my new fuel pressures are, but they are at least what you have.



So, in your opinion, was my VP failure due to a poorly engineered LP situation that didn't provide enough pressure ?