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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission rear wheel break cylinder

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Please do not break your brakes!

Welcome to the site, someone will be along shortly to help!

SNOKING
 
Fill out your signature so we know what you're driving. My 97 2500 came with 15/16" wheel cylinders and I upgraded them using Napa # 37784 which are 1-1/8". I had been considering a rear disk brake conversion but for less than $20 bucks I thought I'd give the new wheel cylinders a try and I'm glad I did. Braking was much more balanced and I never had any problems with them locking up prematurely. Needless to say, I never bothered with the disk brake conversion. There is a larger 1-3/16 option too 37337 that may be better depending on your uses. I was running empty 99% of the time with my 97 and the 1-1/8 worked great.

Welcome to TDR.
 
my dodge is a 96 1 Ton duel cab&1/4 300K on the motor 373rears with auto trans oversize injectors & we have opened up the waste gate 4"stainless front to back no restrictions runs about 19 mpg
 
P/N 33708 wheel cylinder (1 3/16 dia), noticeable improvement, and low cost :)

Yes it does make a noticeable improvement, and disconnecting the load sensing valve and maxing it out for more rear brake bias also makes a noticeable improvement. I believe I am going to replace my rear lines before winter as a precaution and I think I may totally eliminate it. My only concern is if I may be still getting some kind of bias through the load sensing valve and if I remove it I may get more rear brake then I want/need.
 
Yes it does make a noticeable improvement, and disconnecting the load sensing valve and maxing it out for more rear brake bias also makes a noticeable improvement. I believe I am going to replace my rear lines before winter as a precaution and I think I may totally eliminate it. My only concern is if I may be still getting some kind of bias through the load sensing valve and if I remove it I may get more rear brake then I want/need.

I have removed the valve on both of my 98's. With rear antilock it's no big deal. My current 2wd will give a short chirp them the ABS kicks in. Also went with Hawk Severe Duty front pads from Geno's.
 
I have a dually, so I do not have the load sensing valve, so can't comment on its effect. No issues on mine with the larger wheel cylinders, except for actually being able to feel them do something.
 
I installed the GM 1 ton wheel cylinders several years ago. They made a huge difference. On a 2500, the rears would lock up under heavy braking with no load. I also had the load sensing valve disconnected and zip wrapped all the way up for the most possible rear braking. The valve could be adjusted to the right setting for your truck. On a 1 ton dually, this should not be a problem at all. I could be wrong, but I don't believe duallys came with the load sensing valve. It should be noted that air bags work against the load sensing valve.
 
I had read the above about the 1-3/16 cylinder and went to Autozone gave them the number 33708 and installed them what a difference from the older 1 tons 1-1/16 makes a difference.
 
Left brake pulling

I have a 95CC and developed the left pull upon brake application. And found the the right front brake was not working as it should. I rebuilt both calipers and solved the problem. Along with the rear larger wheel cylinders brakes are much better Than ever before.
 
I have a 97 dually 4x4 and several years ago I replaced my rear wheel cylinders with the larger Chevy 1 ton mentioned. I then was experiencing a 3 -5 second brake fade which was scary in traffic. I replaced all brake lines, both rear drums, brake master and used fittings to incrementally block off master and then front from rear and finally put stock wheel cylinders back in...fade gone.

I believe the dually cylinders are bigger than the 3/4 ton and are good enough. I found one person on forums with this issue so maybe it is rare but it drove me nuts.

If you have a dually keep it in mind.
 
Bringing this back for more help.
On my truck the left rear wheel self adjusts tighter than the right. I have removed the drum and it all looks like it should as far as install goes, and when I back out to the road I do not use a lot of brake before moving forward. I don't think that this miner amount of brake would cause a self adjust to happen to the left side (turning to the left). I am considering removing the adjustment arm to the star wheel and keep them adjusted manually. As I always check them for adjustment any way before a trip. Is it possible that the adjuster would adjust moving forward? Seem as this is what it is doing.
Thank you all for your reply.
 
I have never heard of a drum brake over tightening itself. Doesn't mean that it can't happen. I don't know if I would remove the adjustment arm. I believe it also keeps the star wheel from backing out. Are you lubricating all moving and rubbing parts with white lithium? Just spit-balling. I'm puzzled.
 
I can see the adjustment tightening if you back the same direction all the time and applying the brake hard with speed, but I don't Its just weird that this is happening.
 
They are actually supposed to self adjust when braking in reverse, but they rarely work as they should and I doubt that is what you are experiencing if you are a light braker.

That being said, have you pulled the other side apart? Maybe its frozen and not self adjusting while the other side is?
 
JR
that's my next move is to scrutinize the workings of both wheels, and pick the nuts and bolts to pieces. Thanks you guys for your in put.
 
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