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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission wait to start light

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I think my wait to start light has blown but will that cause the fuel pump not to cycle on first start. My grid heater is working because you can watch the volts drop and pick back up
 
If you bump the starter does the lift pump run for 27-28 seconds? Turning the key on only runs it for a second or two. Snoking
 
Don't know if the 99 has this function or not, my 01 does, there is a way to test the cluster though I cant remember how it is done. Hold your left ear with your right hand, stand on one leg, press a button turn the key. Then it will illuminate all the cluster lights and sweep the gauges that way you will know if the light is out or something else. I had an ecm that was wonky and my wait to start light would not come on unless I reset the ecm (though my grid heaters would not work either at those times) then it would work for a while then after a week or so stop coming on again a refurb'd ecm fixed it.

I just did a quick search and found this on cumminsforum not sure if this it but it sounds like it was what I did now that I see it though it has been 10 years, don't have my truck with me so cant verify it.

"Testing the instrument cluster: (Start with the key in the OFF position.)
-Push and hold the trip/reset button on the instrument cluster.
-Turn the key to RUN (Do not start the engine.) while you are still holding the button.
-The word "CHEC" will appear in the odometer display, you can let go of the button now.

-Note down any numeric codes that show up on the odometer display. They will help in troubleshooting."
 
I checked my cluster and that's the only light that don't come on but no codes. I wasnt sure if that powers fuel pump for them couple of secs or not
 
I truck running correctly should always start right away. How it acts after starting varies when it is cold(smokes, ruff, etc). The first time you hear a 24V go into cold weather 3 cylinder idle you will mess your shorts. SNOKING
 
It turns over for about 10 secs before it starts since light or pump hasn't been coming on. But when it starts no miss check engine light and plenty of power
 
I truck running correctly should always start right away. How it acts after starting varies when it is cold(smokes, ruff, etc). The first time you hear a 24V go into cold weather 3 cylinder idle you will mess your shorts. SNOKING

My 02 with 6 sp manual has never gone into the 3 cyl mode in cold weather. Even at temps below zero.

Have watched the you tube video of the above to prepare me in case the unexpected happens.
 
Does it do fast idle? Most likely not enabled. Was intended for auto trucks, but can be turned I believe. Snoking
 
The light itself has nothing to do with the lift pump but could be an indication of a failing ecm. The fact it takes so long to start says there is a problem somewhere as well. What are your ambient temps this time of year? As stated above, turning the key on only activates the lift pump for a second or so. If you bump the starter, it should run for approximately 30 seconds before shutting off. I would do this first to verify its working.
As for the grid heaters, I would do some probing with a voltmeter to verify they are working properly. Im betting either they're not or your losing prime when the truck sits if it takes that long to start.

If it helps, here is a diagram of the grid heaters. You'll want to start at the battery and work through the relays to make sure you're getting voltage to them.
Also, if you don't have a fuel pressure gauge on the truck it would be a good idea to get one not only to help troubleshoot your problem but they are invaluable in catching a failing lift pump before it wipes out the injection pump $$$

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd9/alpine1jds/gridheaterwiring.png
 
OK new news fuel pressure before the injector pump when running is 14-17 when I bump the starter the relay for my airdog 150 pump just clicks and doesn't run the pump I can take my scanner and turn pump on and cycle grid heaters and wait to start light all works properly with the scanner but not when u turn the key
 
If I recall correctly when I had my ecm issue I could reset it by disconnecting the negative battery cables, then turn they key on and let it sit for 15 minutes or so then turn key off, then reconnect cables. I may be wrong on that sequence or forgetting one two. Member Bob Wagner I think gave me the proper procedure and it worked every time wts light and grids would start working and would work for a week or two then I would have to do it again. As time went on it took less and less time before it needed to be done. Before I got a new ecm it was down to doing it every couple days. Now my lift pump was a mechanical RASP and had no input from the ecm as I had ditched the stock setup by that time so I did not have that issue to deal with at the time.
 
I will try to reset it I've read on another site to just pick the signal for the pump from the injector pump but I'm confused because my lift pump is working when running to have 15psi of pressure before injector pump
 
So the lift pump does not cycle when you bump the key, how are you getting it to run when the truck is running? If you disconnect the battery, your going to have to reset the APPS when you reconnect. It's easy to do and I can post the procedure for you if you've never done it.
 
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I will try to reset it I've read on another site to just pick the signal for the pump from the injector pump but I'm confused because my lift pump is working when running to have 15psi of pressure before injector pump

The injection pump does not command the lift pump to run, the ECM does. Since you have two issues possibly related to the ECM, it would be a good idea to give the 50 pin connector on the ECM a good look over.
 
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