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Unitized Hub Bearing Assembly Removal - Lessons Learned

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Truck down since last December

Need PID source for 2004.5 Ram 3500

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I just replaced upper and lower ball joints, universal joint, rotors, brake pads, brake fluid, unit bearing drivers side, tie rod end driver side wheel, on both sides. They were very difficult to get apart but after pounding away with large hammer they finally gave up. they universal was very hard to get out and after pushing it out 1 side and removing cap there was not enough room to get the joint out so I torched it and ground a small amount off of axle so new one would go in. It was a bad casting job. Got it all back together and bleed brakes aligned toe in and it all works great.
During all this, I changed transmission filter and fluid and engine oil and filter with Royal Purple. Cleaned air filter and oiled. Truck has 205,000 miles and has given very little trouble.
 
The Spyntec hub conversion looks great on the truck. Good to see what the kit looks like assembled and mounted. Thanks for posting the pics. Learning as much as I can in anticipation of hub bearing & ball joint work in the future. The Dynatrac Kits and Spyntecs both look to be good choices.
 
Spyntec $1500
Dynatrac $2300

I didn’t think the dyna looked that much better.
Was looking at the unitized hubs off mine yesterday and I cannot rotate the bearings by hand so how much drag was that putting on everything.
 
I have been thinking about doing that to my 2012 but am not sure if I really want to install it myself. If you don't mind me asking about how much did it cost to have them installed?
 
Just completed doing the front end of my 03' dually. Rotors,caliper's,hoses,brakes,shocks,springs,upper and lower ball joints,08' steering upgrade and Spyntec lock out hubs.What a job!!!! Thanks to NJ DOT with all the crap they spray on these roads during the winter months!!!!
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Spyntec $1500
Dynatrac $2300

I didn’t think the dyna looked that much better.
Was looking at the unitized hubs off mine yesterday and I cannot rotate the bearings by hand so how much drag was that putting on everything.


The main reason to choose the Dynas was that they are the shortest available hubs on the market. Some dont like hubs that stick out of the wheel so far.
 
The Spyntec hub conversion looks great on the truck. Good to see what the kit looks like assembled and mounted. Thanks for posting the pics. Learning as much as I can in anticipation of hub bearing & ball joint work in the future. The Dynatrac Kits and Spyntecs both look to be good choices.



My hub kit is Spyn, and I chose them because I thought they offered the best value, and I was able to buy them from a 4X4 shop not too far, so I saved on shipping and tax. The only frustrating thing is that months after I took the plunge, they came out with the shorty kit. I take comfort knowing that my kit uses all Dana 60 shafts and wear parts, except for the seal, which is an industrial item. I already had them apart to repack the bearings, and spyntec was excellent with parts and answering the phone.
I don't bash Dynatrac- I have their ball joints, and they're excellent pieces as well.
 
Good job on that repair Gonzo 1066 , people do need to do more research , I did the same on my 2003 dodge ram 2500 diesel a few years ago worked out prefect....you should repost this to the front page, saves time and money and the risk of doing more damage to your rig . let the steering hydraulics do the work for you:D
 
let the steering hydraulics do the work for you

Doesn't work so well on rigs that live and work in corrosive humid climates. I've seen them frozen in the spindle so bad a 20 ton press and a rose bud tip on the end of a torch was required...more than once.
 
The issue with both of those is that they will likely separate the bearing leaving the mounting flange stuck in the steering knuckle.

You can make your own pretty easily and you don't need more than 1/4 inch angle iron, which is a whole lot cheaper than buying a puller that might only do half the job.

-Ryan
 
I live in NH in the salt belt. Doing the socket and steering trick worked like a champ. I have told everyone I can about it.
 
I live in NH in the salt belt. Doing the socket and steering trick worked like a champ. I have told everyone I can about it.

I had to replace ball joints soon after, so keep in mind the amount of stress you're putting on other parts when steering hydraulics are used.
 
if you have long intervals between servicing the hub knuckles whatever you do never use antiseize on splined areas. use synthetic spline grease. the nickel/copper content in the antiseize will lock the splines up when the lube oils work their way out over time leaving the metallic content behind, lesson I learned the hard way.
I cleaned all the rust from the knuckle and unit bearing and shot both with rustoleum POR paint and after ten years still has not any rust build up inside the unit bearing cavities of the knuckles.
 
if you have long intervals between servicing the hub knuckles whatever you do never use antiseize on splined areas. use synthetic spline grease. the nickel/copper content in the antiseize will lock the splines up when the lube oils work their way out over time leaving the metallic content behind, lesson I learned the hard way.
I cleaned all the rust from the knuckle and unit bearing and shot both with rustoleum POR paint and after ten years still has not any rust build up inside the unit bearing cavities of the knuckles.


i have used anti seize on the splines for over 20 years,never had one seize in the hub,i use the silver stuff,
 
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