Egr dpf delete

[JR]

I would consult with whatever tuner you decide on. Some of the more competent guys claim head studs aren't necessary on mild tunes but there are many variables. I've been looking at the MM3 through DRD and he claims below 120 hp studs aren't necessary....not sure I'd be comfortable with that but he writes the tunes and seems like he backs up his work so there must be some merit to his statements.

If and when I delete I don't intend on adding studs, but then again I'm not doing it for any performance gains and it won't change the way I drive my truck.

 

[6V92TA]

I'm one of those people who believe that if it isn't broken, you shouldn't fix it... and if you do fix it leave it as close to original as possible simply because one modification leads to another and at some point the vehicle is rendered cute but useless. LOL

 

[Jim W]

At least get a new head gasket, valve job, and head studs, first.

If you use a mild tune that adds low horse power and torque to the engine and watch your gauges you should be O.K. without adding head studs to the engine. You do not need to do a valve job nor replace the head gasket and surface the head. I have driven 90,000+ miles since I added my Smarty S67 with the existing head bolts and stock head gasket. I have towed my 5er for 40,000 of those miles all over the US using the CaTCHER Level 3 which adds 60HP/120 lb.-ft. to the rear axle. I never go over 35lb. of boost pressure from the turbo under any circumstance.

If you have a rather new truck with engine and you want to add a programmer which adds a lot of HP/TQ to the engine the least you should do is replace the head bolts with head studs. Removing one bolt at a time and install the head stud when completed torque as recommend by the fastener manufactures recommendation. This method has been done and performed successfully with low mileage engines.

If you go with a wild tune than all bets are off.

 

[JR]

If you go with a wild tune than all bets are off.

Same can be said for the inexperienced tuner or DIY writing his own tunes. Putting too much timing into an engine btdc at high load/low rpm for example will drive cylinder pressures through the roof regardless of power levels. That is about as basic a scenario as it gets but the point is there is a lot that goes into making a good efficient tune that is not detrimental to an engine.

 

[XJman]

Honestly the only reason I plan on tuning it is the egr and dpf delete and everywhere I've looked and the shops here I've spoken to basically all told me there isn't really a tune without some level of power gain.

I'm also a fan of not over complicating things, however I am a fan of doing it right the first time. If there is a huge possibility I'll lift a head then I will absolutely address the gasket and studs right away. I didn't really buy the truck to hot rod around. It will tow a trailer from time to time with renovation stuff for my house but it's not going to be dragging horse trailers or construction equipment around. I needed a pickup, it was available and I've never owned a diesel. I figured why not.

I'm not hurting to remove either component. I've just been told it's a really good idea for my situation. Eventually here I'm going to get some sort of monitor so I have a better idea what's going on, I also have plans for a pyrometer, boost pressure, and maybe oil temp.

 

[KenHwy61]

There is a tuner that you can select stock power.
http://www.raceme.eu/index.php?page=product&info=6

 

[XJman]

There is a tuner that you can select stock power.
http://www.raceme.eu/index.php?page=product&info=6

I wonder why this option was not presented to me?

I'll check it out for sure.

 

[Lafitte]

I have the Raceme tuner installed in my 2012 2500.The shop that did it explained that it quits the EGR system , disconnects the TCV ( open ) . Uses stock 0hp,+40 hp +80 hp , +120 hp settings . I haul a Fifth Wheel trailer some times , so I opted the +40hp tune. My mileage immediately jumped to 18 / 19 mpg. No codes . Runs smoothly. If your truck is out of warranty period and you don't use stealerships , I would reccomend this . I haven't checked mileage towing but will soon.
Also installed Frantz Bypass oil filter.

 

[XJman]

Thanks.

I haven't really gotten around to this yet. I've been dealing with some convince issues with the truck before I give into the drivetrain and emissions equipment. I'll try and remember to update this when I get it done and the path I chose.

 

[bob53magnum]

Evidently it is primarily a problem with the 2010 and 2011.

 

[XJman]

Evidently it is primarily a problem with the 2010 and 2011.

My understanding was it's an issue with the non def vehicles.

 

[Wiredawg]

I deleted my EGR and DPF with Sinister Diesel and Smarty S67 ME version in 2010 on my 2009 C&C. Ran great and code free. I reinstalled them July 2017 because of concerns about emission testing/enforcement of Federal Emissions laws. The performance with them on is good, but noticeably more heat in the engine bay and coolant temps higher under heavy loads on steep grades. I've used Level 5 on the Smarty, but may drop down to level 3. My Mobile Suites is 20.2K lbs, 4K lbs over the 5er I had when I originally removed the emissions. Ron

 

[XJman]

I deleted my EGR and DPF with Sinister Diesel and Smarty S67 ME version in 2010 on my 2009 C&C. Ran great and code free. I reinstalled them July 2017 because of concerns about emission testing/enforcement of Federal Emissions laws. The performance with them on is good, but noticeably more heat in the engine bay and coolant temps higher under heavy loads on steep grades. I've used Level 5 on the Smarty, but may drop down to level 3. My Mobile Suites is 20.2K lbs, 4K lbs over the 5er I had when I originally removed the emissions. Ron

Thanks for the response.

Sadly I haven't had the chance to look more into it. I've been taking care of some other issues with the truck and it's just taken my time. I've also realized I've got a problem with making oil that could be any number of issues. Once I get that addressed I'll update with what I decided on.

 

[JR]

How much oil? I think Cummins allows up to 5% on your model year. Deleting would cure that issue as well assuming you don't have an injector issue or something similar.

 

[XJman]

After I changed the oil when I picked it up. It went from just below 1/2 on the safe zone on the dip stick to at the max line of the dipstick

 

[KPear]

I deleted my EGR and DPF with Sinister Diesel and Smarty S67 ME version in 2010 on my 2009 C&C. Ran great and code free. I reinstalled them July 2017 because of concerns about emission testing/enforcement of Federal Emissions laws.

Sooner or later, this will be an issue for everyone, in every state. Technically the Federal Emissions laws need to be followed by everyone, regardless of the testing policies in any specific state or county. Individuals and small tuner shops have figured out how to keep the delete business going, but sooner or later the EPA and state governments will crack down on those just like they did with the big-name delete tuners a little while back.

I'd say keep your emissions equipment stored somewhere and make sure the sensor wire ends are adequately protected, because you may want to put all that stuff back on at some point. Or, you could look at emission-intact tuning.

 

[6V92TA]

I have a tendency to think if it isn't broke, don't fix it..once the factory installed genie gets loose you can do whatever you want. most people don't realize there is a factory installed genie in their engine and that nothing except maintenance should be done to the engine until the first time they have to repair something mechanical and the genie escapes.

 

[KPear]

Or keep it stock like 6V92TA is suggesting. FCA and Cummins put a lot of R&D into this engine and the emissions attached to it. I'm not saying its perfect, but it has certainly seen improvements as of late and I think you're better off following OEM-guidance on maintenance and preventative measures than you are removing everything and following the guidance of some low-rent tuner shop.

 

[JR]

What if it is broke, would either of you pony up the necessary money for the life of the truck to properly fix your emissions equipment or simply trade it in when the warranty is up and let someone else deal with it. It's easy to play arm chair quarter back when it isn't your wallet.

 

[SnoKing]

Sooner or later, this will be an issue for everyone, in every state. Technically the Federal Emissions laws need to be followed by everyone, regardless of the testing policies in any specific state or county. Individuals and small tuner shops have figured out how to keep the delete business going, but sooner or later the EPA and state governments will crack down on those just like they did with the big-name delete tuners a little while back.

I'd say keep your emissions equipment stored somewhere and make sure the sensor wire ends are adequately protected, because you may want to put all that stuff back on at some point. Or, you could look at emission-intact tuning.

BIL came to Arizona in the fall and bought a park model in our park. The other day they went and exchanged their Ohio drivers licenses for Arizona ones. And went to change their 08's registration to Arizona, NOT! NO Kitty, caps on EGR ports under hood. Told to take the truck away from the test station. He had been given the removed goodies when he bought the truck used a few years ago. HOWEVER when they sold their Ohio home he got rid of the stuff. Up a creek without a paddle! Anyone have the stuff for a 08 collecting dust in the garage? SnoKing