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Egr dpf delete

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2015 RAM 2500 6.7 serviceable grease points??

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I live in California and deleted my 2012 using EFI Live (from one of the most reputable tuners out there known for their customer service... Reminds me of a Sex Pistol tune...) and delete pipe (the one that removed the DPF and NOX trap but lives the cat in the downpipe). I got their flavor of CSP5 tune with transmission tuning; I keep it in Econ driving and Tow when towing.
No reputable tuner ships to CA so I had to use a friend as intermediary.
As for the engine, I just unplugged the connectors and covered them up with 3M electrical tape.

I've also installed an EDGE CS2 and drilled & tapped the manifold right above the turbo for the EGT probe (no need to remove the turbo or anything, just got a quality bit and tap from McMaster-Carr).

When emission comes I put the exhaust back on, plug everything back, unload the tune, drive it for a week, get smog done, and delete the day after. Works like a charm...

As far as how the truck runs: much better. EGTs are lower (that's from the pre-turbo probe), by a lot. Cruising you see 400-500 unloaded.

When I pull our 12K lbs 5er I see 1000 cruising with about 11lbs of boost. When loaded once you give it more throttle EGT actually drop by a good 100-150 deg once the turbo spools to 22-25lbs and unless you request full load they hardly go above 1100. When I ask full load going up a pass at 65mph I see 1350 max at full 35lbs of boost.

Stock, I used to get 1000 EGT unloaded, intake air temperature (yes, INTAKE) get as high as 200 because of the EGT!!! When towing I've gotten in the 1400+.

Oil has not grown a bit, is cleaner than before and after 12K miles, Blackstone said to keep going with it. Before at 2500 miles I had 6% dilution, now a big fat ZERO...

That's my story. Go for it. Keep it within reasonable level and remember how hard you had to work for the truck before you go for a cheap trill.
 
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My emissions equipment has 199k miles on it. If it fails or not it doesn’t matter. It’ll need replaced anyway. It’s all put aside until I figure out my oil situation.

Thanks for the response though.

How much idle time (idle hours) do you have on your almost 200,000 miles? I have an exorbitant amount at 3080+ with 4750 driving hours and 210,000 miles on the odometer.
 
Sorry for being so late to reply. My last oil change only showed 4% dilution after 3k. From what I’ve found I’ll run with that. I’ve not noticed any notable gains on my dipstick so far this summer. So everything is good with that.

As far as hours the truck has 6k or something I’ll have to double check.
 
2% fuel oil dilution was the Max percentage used in the Military before complete oil change and inspection of fuel system. You can smell 2%.
Things may have changed since I retired, but I'd change it now.
 
2% fuel oil dilution was the Max percentage used in the Military before complete oil change and inspection of fuel system. You can smell 2%.
Things may have changed since I retired, but I'd change it now.

I've heard anything above 6% fuel dilution in oil is too much?????
 
Xjman 4% at 3K miles is high IMO.

I’ve got about 3k on my current oil. Should I drain it and check it and see what it is? I was told that during the winter it isn’t uncommon to see a higher % because of the long idle and freezing temps.

I’ve got more 6600 hours on my truck if you needed an exacter idea
 
I would run another 2K on current Lube and OA to see what %, if it maintains or go's up you need to find out WHY. it could be as simple as fluke sample. Never condemn the engine on 1 sample, Trends are necessary for correct results.
 
I haven’t condemned it. I’m actually kind of surprised the truck is still in one piece at 200k miles of farm duty. My other Chrysler products haven’t been so lucky.

Some of my overall plans with my truck changed after I bought it and life pooped on my fun so it got resigned to daily driver duty. I think part of my issue is that. 5 days a week I have to make a sub 10 minute trip to a grandparents house, and have a 40 mile round trip drive to work that’s 60/40 Highway/backroads.

I’ll be back in a few thousand miles I guess. I am still balking on the deletes like a bum but I did have an o2 sensor in the exhaust replaced recently.
 
I can’t speak to that as I’ve used both in the past and had similar results from both leading me to believe they are both pretty reputable and wouldn’t question using either.

I’ll say on my Subaru I had a lot of uoa done and I never saw a fuel dilution above a few tenths of a % even at 100k miles of being beaten to death
 
Interesting that Blackstone picked up the fuel dilution with the viscosity test but felt it was normal on such low mileage.
I've never really used Blackstone but I have also never heard of any negative reviews like this would cause. The owner of the samples should have been in contact asking for clarification .
 
Sure it is, the more oil is diluted with fuel the thinner the viscosity, the thinner the viscosity lessons the protective film barrier between engine components causing accelerated wear.
Less extreme, more long term effects include oxidation stability, filter plugging issues and deposit formation. Cold weather can produce waxing of fuel in oil (filter plugging and bypass)
 
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Sure it is, the more oil is diluted with fuel the thinner the viscosity, the thinner the viscosity lessons the protective film barrier between engine components causing accelerated wear.

Exactly, Fuel in oil % regardless of % breaks down oil lube.

We build engines and we spec the tolerances to the lube being used. My race engines are spec for S50-W. Others want to run 20-50W.

Now some makers in DD (Gas) use want 0/5-20W IMO No engine that is production built has all the tolerances spec to 0/5-20W. I run 5-30W in all My gas engines that OEMs advise to run 0/5-20W .

With gas engines and VVT the lube viscosity can damage the oil control valve ( electronic) screens ( due to High W), also running lubes to long in dirty environments in VVT engines will plug the screens $$$$ in repairs.

I've seen 100s of 5.9/6.7 Valve train wear do to poor lube, Rocker shaft and bushing.
 
Sure it is, the more oil is diluted with fuel the thinner the viscosity, the thinner the viscosity lessons the protective film barrier between engine components causing accelerated wear.
Less extreme, more long term effects include oxidation stability, filter plugging issues and deposit formation. Cold weather can produce waxing of fuel in oil (filter plugging and bypass)


Seems to me like fuel dilution of oil is really an important thing to know. I decided to go with oil analyzers Inc instead of blackstone because of what the above link shows about blackstone not reporting an accurate percent of fuel dilution. Blackstone shows that the oil thinned, but could not report accurate % of fuel dilution.

I have sampled my oil with 3600 miles on it. It is ready to mail out. The results I get back will determine if i change my oil soon or wait until next month.

I am going to transition to Amsoil's Dominator 20w-50 so I don't have to think as much about fuel dilution. (Oil that starts out thicker will likely retain adequate viscosity with up to 4% fuel dilution). And so I don't have to change my oil every 4k-5k when I notice the oil rising on the dipstick due probably to soot load and fuel dilution.
 
Going back to my 2007.5 RAM 3500 MegaCab days, I remember that Cummins stated that 5% fuel dilution was OK on the new 6.7L engines.

With that being said......this is what I came up with.

1 gallon = 128 ozs.
3 gallons = 384 ozs.
5% of 384 ozs. equals 19.2 ozs.

So....based on the above, 19.2 ozs of fuel mixed in with the crankcase oil was acceptable.

Additional, multiple injection events to aid in regens were why the oil levels grew on the 2007.5 through 2012 trucks, and basically do not cause oil levels to grow (as a rule) on the 2013 & newer DEF pickups.
 
Might.be something about the suction of oil out of the full flow filter (when I change it... It's only half full) that (might) happen(s) not as much (to a lesser extent) for the clean oil right after changing it, but does happen with the oil that has been run awhile.

Could there be something with a partially clogged (Donaldson/Fleetguard) full flow filter that would change that back pressure suction that causes the suction (of oil) back toward the oil pump in a partially clogged filter that might have different pressure gradient in a clean filter that doesn't suck oil out of the filter? I haven't removed a clean filter because I don't have a good enough reason to.

Pretty certain my truck doesn't use or leak a drop of oil anywhere. But when a truck creates soot and does regens which has a potential to drop fuel in oil, volume of oil could potentially increase. It does seem to do that in mine if I drive 20-40 miles at a time (short trips) for several weeks. If I drive 300-400 miles daily (for several days), I see no increase in oil level.

I will share my oil analysis results when they arrive. I am not aware if any of the diesel I've used has been mixed with biodiesel on this 3600 mile usage oil currently in the sump. But I bought fuel in Florida, Georgia, North & South Carolina, and not sure what the laws (and procedures) are about fuel pump labeling in all states.

I've only noticed a slight growth of oil on the dipstick after our June 2018 trip. Have probably only 1000 miles of local driving (staying mostly in one county) that shows I have a little more oil (growth) on the dipstick. Seems local driving (several cold starts) would cause both more soot and potentially more fuel dilution. If my truck was using a biodiesel blend, I think fuel dilution would be more likely. Don't know if the OAI oil analysis will catch biodiesel fuel dilution, or if there is any discernable petro diesel dilution. The UOA will hopefully answer that concern.
 
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