Buying '78 Lil Red Express Truck

[DavidC]

For what it is worth I had a 68 Barracuda, 69 Plymouth Satellite and of course the 70 Road Runner. They all had amp meters and never had a problem with them. The only real electrical problems dealt with the firewall plugs.

 

[Wiredawg]

Bruce,

I think those are great points. I verified the new alternator puts out 60amps. I'm actually decreasing amps by:
1. Converting sealed beam headlights, installing H4 conversion headlamp enclosures, and using LED lamps, like I installed on my 2104 Jeep Wrangler
Note, I replaced the headlight switch that had noticeable heat damage and rheostat windings actually falling out.
All dash lamps replaced and tested with LEDs
All exterior lighting being replaced with LEDs
2. Converting HVAC blower motor circuits to control circuits that close relays in the engine bay to operate the blower motor.
3. Open every connector, inspect it, shiny them up, every switch (the blower switch most importantly)
I already did this to the firewall connectors, but feel better eliminating connectors on the firewall connector by adding about a foot of same size wiring with
crimp/solder copper butt connectors with double heat shrink.
4. Decided as part of Amp management, to remove my 18 Amps Cadillac horns and swap with the one on my Jeep.

I'm adding Amps back in:

5. New audio amp has individual 40 amp fuse, but should nominally draw around 8 to 10 amps, subwoofer the same.
6. I have the factory volt meter and read where someone had retrofitted it into the AMP meter slot. Drawing above shoes haw to wire it with the Amp meter and
both work.

I suspect there is NOT a fusible link in the new wiring replaced in the engine bay by the rebuilders. Gonna install 60 Amp, automotive, weather proof non-auto resetting breaker on the main battery lead and use lower ones on the branch battery circuits in front of the fuse panel.

If I get good news from the Dr on Friday, I'll be hard at it right after... if he keeps me on the no more than 25lbs weight on it this past Monday, I'll have to shut down work on the truck until I'm allowed more weight on it.

Thanks for the suggestions and happy to hear others as well. The best way to make an informed decision is to have information.

Cheers, Ron

 

[Wiredawg]

Friends,

Thanks for the help in deciding what to do... repair/replace bad wiring and connectors and replace the fuse panel.

While I didn't have anything better to do, I created a chart showing continuity of the new fuse panel, so wiring to it will be easier.

Another point is now I don't have to create a new wiring diagram of the truck, which would be absolutely necessary for future trouble shooting.

My first car was a 1967 Dodge Polara, 318V8, 4 door, auto. There was a 1967 Dodge Charger 426 hemi, dual quad crabs, auto, for sale too, but my dad wouldn't let me get it, even though it was my money. He said "It's either the Polara or the school bus." Suddenly, the Polara looked a lot better. The school bus ride was 2hrs in the morning and two hours in the evening. Besides, I would have probably gotten killed in the Charger.

Anyhoo, I'm happy to have all the gauges working, being a type A doesn't allow for things to not work.

I watched Garage Squad today fixing the LRE. It inspired me.

Thanks again, and Cheers!

Ron

 

[Wiredawg]

Friends,

I spent today analyzing existing circuits for opportunities to improve them. The HVAC blower has been a noted source of overheating. Not withstanding potential issues with connectors and switches, I found a possible design issue. From the fuse panel, 14awg wire provides battery to the blower switch, then 14awg wire to the heater regulator, then 16awg wire routes through the firewall, and to the blower motor. I'm going to see if I can upgrade the entire circuit to 12awg wire.

I'm done with the cut sheet, so should be able to strip the factory fuse panel and start wiring in the new fuse panel.

Also interesting the factory fuse panel always hot feed is 14awg from the battery positive terminal with an 18awg fusible link. Gonna replace with 10awg wire from the battery and a 40 amp breaker. Accessory feeds from ignition are 14awg and 12awg, which I will combine to a 10awg feed into the single ignition accesory battery feed on the new fuse panel.

Headlight lens/housings came in today so LED bulbs will pull approximately 5amps, so should reduce current related heat dramatically. Headlamp wiring 18awg, so I'm likely going to upgrade to 14 or 12awg all the way through the floor dimmer switch to headlight switch.

That's about all for today.

Cheers all, Ron

 

[PBJ2500CTD]

...Also interesting the factory fuse panel always hot feed is 14awg from the battery positive terminal with an 18awg fusible link. Gonna replace with 10awg wire from the battery and a 40 amp breaker. Accessory feeds from ignition are 14awg and 12awg, which I will combine to a 10awg feed into the single ignition accesory battery feed on the new fuse panel...

Here is an educational moment for those wondering why a fusible link is smaller. There is some "magic smoke release engineering" as to why a fusible link is smaller than the circuit it protects. A simple explanation from auto shop 101 states: "A fusible link is usually four (4) wire sizes smaller than the circuit that it is protecting." Details listed here under Fusible Links on page 11, as well as interesting current limiting devices information: http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/hweb1.pdf

And some gee whiz fusible link product info:
https://www.awcwire.com/productspec.aspx?id=fusible-link-wire
and
http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/fusible-link.shtml

 

[GCroyle]

Dodgepedia:

Fuse-able link. Sub set, electrical wiring device, location inaccessible. A small mysterious device that holds pressurized smoke. Smoke will release under electrical distress causing immediate head scratching, roadside pondering, cursing, tire kicking and towing.

 

[Wiredawg]

Friends,

Thanks for your ongoing support... this is truly a group project. I wanted to get your input on splicing new fuse panel into existing truck wiring and fuse protection:

I'm planning on purchasing this and installing at the battery. Good idea or do you have better idea?

And for splices, instead of crimp butt connectors, I'm looking at tinning conductors with rosin core solder, inserting into these barrel connectors, crimping to hold, heat flow solder into joint, then slide heat shrink over them. Good idea or is there a better one?

As always, thanks for y'all's help... I'm confident WE'RE making this project as near bullet proof as possible.

As a side note, anxiously awaiting email from my surgeon on the CT scan results an prognosis. Spasms in back better thanks to POWERFUL drugs. My rule of thumb on recovering from back spasms... as soon as you feel better, add 3 to 5 days before doing light work and 2 to 3 weeks for normal work.

Cheers, Ron

 

[DavidC]

This is how the A.F. taught me.
https://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/a1430/4213013/

 

[Wiredawg]

This is how the A.F. taught me.
https://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/a1430/4213013/

Dave,
Yes sir, me too. Still have my AF tech school books. When I came in the AF 1976, the telephone central office and a lot of major cross connect rooms had solder terminals, 1.5 turns, and sweat flow the solder on, nice and shiney. I picked up on using the tin with solder, crimp both leads in butt connector and sweat flow solder from Dodge Connection as a best practice in the automotive world.

When 90 percent of the dash wiring burnt up in 1990 Dodge Spirit, I dropped the dash and repaired/ replaced conductors using the proven way we learned in the AF.

Thanks for reminding me the RIGHT way.

Cheers, Ron

 

[DavidC]

Ron.
Splices are a stop gap when the proper way is not available. Good to remind you of the professional way, looks better than a big ol nasty splice anyway.

 

[HPSimpson]

The Air Force taught you the proper way to solder the joints then thats how should be done, simple. The circuit breaker at the battery or near the battery would solve all your problems, I dislike the smoke fuses.

 

[PBJ2500CTD]

Friends,

Thanks for your ongoing support... this is truly a group project. I wanted to get your input on splicing new fuse panel into existing truck wiring and fuse protection:

I'm planning on purchasing this and installing at the battery. Good idea or do you have better idea?

And for splices, instead of crimp butt connectors, I'm looking at tinning conductors with rosin core solder, inserting into these barrel connectors, crimping to hold, heat flow solder into joint, then slide heat shrink over them. Good idea or is there a better one?

As always, thanks for y'all's help... I'm confident WE'RE making this project as near bullet proof as possible.

As a side note, anxiously awaiting email from my surgeon on the CT scan results an prognosis. Spasms in back better thanks to POWERFUL drugs. My rule of thumb on recovering from back spasms... as soon as you feel better, add 3 to 5 days before doing light work and 2 to 3 weeks for normal work.

Cheers, Ron

Ron,
Here is an informative article that points out some information regarding solder vs. crimp to wrap your brain around: https://millennialdiyer.com/articles/motorcycles/electrical-repair-crimp-or-solder/
Your idea to solder-tin the wires then crimp is not a recommended method as you will crush and damage the wire/solder connection creating higher resistance, wire brittleness and potential for contamination to corrode the connection.
A better method would be to crimp, then solder to fill in any gaps. However, the solder then flows up the wire, heating the insulation as well as creating a brittle wire just outside of the splice. Subjecting the wiring to vibrations and normal environmental effects weakens the wiring at the end of the solder flow. This is actually one of my old ways of choice which I learned in the AF, too. It should work more than adequately for your situation. A double layer of heat shrink extending at least a half inch beyond the splice joint for first layer and another half inch or more past the first layer of heat shrink should offer vibration and environmental protection for the union. However, it will create a length of wire that will be stiff and hard to "flow" with the harness. Also, be sure to stagger the splices or you'll end up with a boa constrictor with a deer caught in its throat.
With all the new technology available today vs. 40 or 50 years ago I have evolved to include some "proper" crimping with the "proper" tools and equipment and have experienced a high degree of success. I was leery of the "new fangled" built in features of heat shrink with adhesive type of crimp connectors. Here is where I found that there are really cheap, bad ones and those that work extremely well. As the article I linked to above states: Choose the right Crimp Connector. Not all crimp connectors have the same design, quality, material or strength. When possible choose a high quality kit. For insulated terminals, I prefer nylon (the translucent ones) over PVC insulation. Seamless or brazed barrels are also preferable, as crimping is more consistent.
So many good things going on in this upgrade. We are all sharing and learning lots of good stuff.
Just a reminder, any parallel feed from the battery terminal will not be observed at the ammeter; if you use solder ensure that the flux is non-corrosive.

Hope you get some good news on the ankle. Your rule of thumb has a lot of good thought backin' it up.

 

[PBJ2500CTD]

Dave,
Yes sir, me too. Still have my AF tech school books. When I came in the AF 1976, the telephone central office and a lot of major cross connect rooms had solder terminals, 1.5 turns, and sweat flow the solder on, nice and shiney. I picked up on using the tin with solder, crimp both leads in butt connector and sweat flow solder from Dodge Connection as a best practice in the automotive world.

When 90 percent of the dash wiring burnt up in 1990 Dodge Spirit, I dropped the dash and repaired/ replaced conductors using the proven way we learned in the AF.

Thanks for reminding me the RIGHT way.

Cheers, Ron

Still have mine from 1972, too; somewhere out in the garage, staples showing signs of rust.
I initially got out of the AF after my first 6 years and got a job with Pacific Northwest Bell in Olympia working in the frame rooms. 1st incoming stage, rows and rows and rows of wires on stacked upon stacked wire runs. Those solder blocks must have been decades upon decades old. Cloth covered wires routed to ancient phenolic blocks, locations identified to the terminal. Ladders on rails to get to the top wire runs. Very warm in that room. Working up a healthy conductive perspiration at all times. Lean over the blocks to remove a wire set from the run, resting your arm on the row of exposed terminals and SOMEONE MAKES A CALL! ZZZZAAPPP!!! Call me Sparky! Darn!!! That smarts as the 90-110 volt ring signal brings you to reality. Try that at the top of the ladder... We were also doing an upgrade from the solder blocks to the super spiffy wire twist terminal blocks at night, when interruptions would have little if any impact.. The little red caps on the solder terminals...well, that is to indicate a data line, do not ever, ever disconnect me unless you have permission from the big people at the top. As time and activity passed those little red covers tend jump into the maze of wires or floor and disappear. If data isn't being transmitted when you do the line status check (hooking up the handset) and there was no red cap and you run and connect the new wire set (Teflon coated for the new wires) about a half hour later you got a nasty phone call from above..."You just interrupted the state's payroll transfer which takes hours upon hours to complete! They are very upset at us!" "Oops. Sorry 'bout that" is all you could say.

 

[HPSimpson]

Wiredawg stay off the that ankle you can do more research and solder sitting in a chair, take it easy.

 

[Wiredawg]

Friends,

GREAT NEWS. Surgeon called me today and cleared me to walk full weight as tolerated. Still taking it easy and no heavy lifting. Going on short RV trip with friends who are setting up and tearing down for me.

Finished wiring tails on the new fuse panel and completed cut sheet documenting where each of the trucks circuits are coming from. Breaking up three circuits that requires new wiring from endpoint. Fully documenting wiring diagram and cut sheet so troubleshooting will be easy.

EDIT, add pic of fuse panel with wires formed.

Thanks for all the support on this and with the truck.

Cheers, Ron

 

[TFucili]

Good news, Ron! Take it slow, though.

 

[DavidC]

Take a little at a time, don't over do it, everything needs to remesh as you know.

 

[PBJ2500CTD]

That is great news for sure. Now, be sure to hold back the "I'm free" enthusiasm by not playing GI Joe the parachutist whilst exiting the Rams. The old adage "Any landing you can walk away from is a good landing" applies here, too.

 

[GCroyle]

No soccer, rugby or such. Good news.

 

[TFucili]

What's your surgeon's opinion on bull riding???