Sluggish, weak, stalling

[MHalloran]

Just to be clear, the solenoid isn't supposed to pull up with just turning the key on. The start position sends a signal to the relay that pulls the solenoid up. If the starter cranks but the solenoid doesn't go up it could be the fusible link. I'll be in western TN on Tuesday. Temps are forecast to be in the teens.

If you don't turn the key off the solenoid should be up.

ok great. When I’m out there I’ll see what it does.....after I get my solenoid installed back in of course...

 

[GAmes]

A bad relay will also cause it, I carry a spare from Genos in my toolbox.

 

[GAmes]

If you remove the left front tire and the fender liner, then do a little cutting the lift pump will be a lot easier to access.

 

[MHalloran]

If you remove the left front tire and the fender liner, then do a little cutting the lift pump will be a lot easier to access.

 

[MHalloran]

I’ve gotten somewhat better access to old lift pump. Before I dive in, what’s the best way to verify & be sure that existing pump is no good? I have a new pump, picked up 8mm studs with nuts also. I hear a squish sound with each push of plunger as well....anyone?
Thanks...

 

[MHalloran]

Well ya know, I’ve gotten this far so I’ll continue...

 

[MHalloran]

Next question..the rigid tubing line from top of lift pump to top of fuel filter housing ( banjo end there)...roughly 12” long..The best place to get a new one?? It’s shot...

 

[MHalloran]

Also, I didn’t find any washers there on this double banjo setup (bigger with small on top of it) on top of fuel filter housing. Should there be? I’m curious about this....

 

[GAmes]

I suggest you sign up for Cummins Quickserve. Parts numbers, pictures and more. You will need your engine serial number. It is on the tag on the side of the gear case.

https://quickserve.cummins.com/info/index.html

 

[MHalloran]

GAmes, I will do that going forward. There are washers with these 2 banjo fittings, yes. I had to run my fingernail around them & they separated from fittings. They were stuck. Since I’m at a standstill now with this job & time & weather is a factor, I bit the bullet & stopped at the dealer. The length of tubing they will have by Wednesday ($110 ouch!) with washers except for the smaller banjo fitting washer which is discontinued now. I’ll try to reuse that one. No choice? I also told them to throw the 90° rubber hose piece (lift to heater) with it. (Another $30 on order). I know I can easily find that one but time is of the essence here. Gonna be cold next couple days while I wait for stuff to come in. Wednesday & Thursday gonna be 50°...

 

[MHalloran]

I also removed wheel well piece & cut a bit of metal away like you did for better access. A great idea

 

[GAmes]

Just guessing but I think if you had ordered from Cummins the price would have been lower.

 

[MHalloran]

Just guessing but I think if you had ordered from Cummins the price would have been lower.

Most likely yes but I’m looking to get this stuff done in a couple days. I’ll have it Wednesday

 

[BigPapa]

Any Asian motorcycle shop will have 6mm sealing washers, aluminum or copper.

 

[MHalloran]

Any Asian motorcycle shop will have 6mm sealing washers, aluminum or copper.

I just checked Amazon & found a kit of assorted sizes of copper sealing washers. $8... will be here in a couple days. Thanks for the tip to lead me to a search.

 

[Timd32]

QuickServe is a major go to for myself, it free and it's your specific ESN specific parts breakdown.

Here is a sample of the parts breakdown from Quick Serve. It's free to join that and best spot to grab the real part numbers. The part numbers are in a table below the various parts breakdowns.

Genos carries these fuel lines.

https://www.genosgarage.com/product/ram-cummins-fuel-supply-tube-3918880/

 

[MHalloran]

Timd32,
Quick serve sounds like a great connection. I’ll do that in future. I didn’t realize Geno’s would carry this fuel line (lift pump to fuel filter). Too late for me cuz I went to dealer ( very silly of me.) paid $100. So after I replaced that cuz old broke when replacing new lift pump, new fuel filter, new torktek overflow valve, cleaned up fuel solenoid & replaced relay, the truck starts & runs great! Alls I have going on now after this job is the WIF sensor light came on & staying lit after I drove some. I flushed some fuel out of filter but light stays on. I gotta fiddle with plug connection. Maybe this will kill the light I’m hoping. Don’t want to have to drop the filter to replace sensor. A PITA job that is especially since I plastic rivoted back the wheel well insert.

 

[Timd32]

Yeah my WIF sensor someone must have not known it unplugged and they were just unscrewing it for a long time and fixing the connectors. I've posted this a few times. But I wound up remaking my connector since my factory one was beyond shot.

Yeah I had a bunch of stuff apart when I did mine. Pretty sure got it from Genos.

I would think it closes the contact, to light the light there was another harness up on top of the engine from what I recall towards the back of #6 cyl, that's why I have 2 plugs. Those are aftermarket plugs I made up, yours will look different. You could try to unplug it.

 

[GAmes]

I disconnected my WIF connector years ago. For one thing, the only time the light came on was when I washed the engine and the connector got water in it. The other thing was the difficulty in unplugging it for a filter change always resulted in me bleeding. I use thousands of gallons of fuel from all over the US and Canada every year and I don't worry about a WIF light.

 

[BigPapa]

What Gary said, but I went a step further and went to a Wix 33391 that doesn’t use the drain valve. Some have questioned using it in this application, but I have run one for well over 350K miles with no injector pump or injector issues.