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Serviced the ‘18 today. A few notes.

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Have I made the wrong choice of wheel......

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A basic and easy oil change along with a front drive shaft greasing.

Not to start a debate, but the “through the fender wheel well” method works quick and easy for me. The Geno’s oil filter cap makes this pretty easy and clean. The only downside is I prefer to change the oil hot, therefore the filter is hot and full of oil. So I spill a few drops that make it out to the rim of the filter before the cap is spun on. Even then, it’s a pretty minor deal.

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The Geno’s oil funnel screws right into the valve cover and makes pouring oil in and leaving a jug draining again super easy.

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For those who want to know, I use used lawn mower oil as my preferred fill. I figure if it worked in a cheap push mower, it ought to work good enough in an $80k truck. :D

Seriously, I use Rotella T6. (Let the oil wars begin....:rolleyes: )

I’ve use Fumoto drain valves for many many years. I really like them and never had an issue. It makes draining the oil easy and mess free.

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I did notice I used a full 12 quarts/3 gallons on this change. In the past (on a 12v) I always seemed to use about 11 quarts. Does that seem normal to y’all? I still have some jugs laying around from the last oil change and that seems to agree. One had an extra quart. Hmmmm. I was parked behind the garage which isn’t perfectly level, but I can’t see it off kilter enough to cause the dipstick to read a quart off. That’d be a pretty big lean.

I then greased the front drive shaft. It was easy to find the zerk as it was marked by a spot of orange paint. I assume from the factory as I didn’t do this. It’s still relatively easy to spot.

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Anyway, I’d rate this job as a 1 Barley Pop Job. Easy peasy, nice and easy. ;)

On another channel, the have the beard rating. This job would rate as 2 day scruff, not even a decent outline of a beard. :D
 
Perfect. I too used the T6 and it always took the 3 gallons. I know some folks don't pre-fill, but I do. Not that big a of deal to me. One thing that did help with both the old filter and the new filled filter (cuz I hate spilling oil and I have butter fingers) was to put a 1 gallon zip lock bag around the filter, add the cap then remove through the fender well.

And I also like the Fumoto valves. And good job greasing that little sucker in the U Joint!!! Dealer never did this, even when I told them NOT to forget. Hence the reason we do it,,,right?
 
A basic and easy oil change along with a front drive shaft greasing.

Not to start a debate, but the “through the fender wheel well” method works quick and easy for me. The Geno’s oil filter cap makes this pretty easy and clean. The only downside is I prefer to change the oil hot, therefore the filter is hot and full of oil. So I spill a few drops that make it out to the rim of the filter before the cap is spun on. Even then, it’s a pretty minor deal.

View attachment 126371

The Geno’s oil funnel screws right into the valve cover and makes pouring oil in and leaving a jug draining again super easy.

View attachment 126372

For those who want to know, I use used lawn mower oil as my preferred fill. I figure if it worked in a cheap push mower, it ought to work good enough in an $80k truck. :D

Seriously, I use Rotella T6. (Let the oil wars begin....:rolleyes: )

I’ve use Fumoto drain valves for many many years. I really like them and never had an issue. It makes draining the oil easy and mess free.

View attachment 126373

I did notice I used a full 12 quarts/3 gallons on this change. In the past (on a 12v) I always seemed to use about 11 quarts. Does that seem normal to y’all? I still have some jugs laying around from the last oil change and that seems to agree. One had an extra quart. Hmmmm. I was parked behind the garage which isn’t perfectly level, but I can’t see it off kilter enough to cause the dipstick to read a quart off. That’d be a pretty big lean.

I then greased the front drive shaft. It was easy to find the zerk as it was marked by a spot of orange paint. I assume from the factory as I didn’t do this. It’s still relatively easy to spot.

View attachment 126374

View attachment 126375

View attachment 126376

Anyway, I’d rate this job as a 1 Barley Pop Job. Easy peasy, nice and easy. ;)

On another channel, the have the beard rating. This job would rate as 2 day scruff, not even a decent outline of a beard. :D
I always go through the top, I've done it so many times in the last 575,000 miles that I could almost do it with my eyes closed.
Your '18 Aisin truck has a HUGE opening in the inner fender liner compared to my '15 68RFE truck, and the trans cooler lines are not in the way anywhere near as much either.
I tried pulling the filter on mine once through the fenderwell and said to hell with that!!!
 
I always go through the top, I've done it so many times in the last 575,000 miles that I could almost do it with my eyes closed.
Your '18 Aisin truck has a HUGE opening in the inner fender liner compared to my '15 68RFE truck, and the trans cooler lines are not in the way anywhere near as much either.
I tried pulling the filter on mine once through the fenderwell and said the hell with that!!!


With the miles you rack up do you change off of hours or miles?
 
With the miles you rack up do you change off of hours or miles?
Hours? No, doesn't take me anywhere near to 500 hours to rack up 15K miles.
Nope, go by miles, about every 6-8 weeks usually puts it at 15K.

Fuel filters as well, and on the original cap on the engine mounted filter to boot, even though it's been on and off about 38 times.
 
Hours? No, doesn't take me anywhere near to 500 hours to rack up 15K miles.
Nope, go by miles, about every 6-8 weeks usually puts it at 15K.

Fuel filters as well, and on the original cap on the engine mounted filter to boot, even though it's been on and off about 38 times.

You could probably switch to 500 hours for both. 500 hours is the standard for many industrial ISB/QSB engines, and your duty cycle certainly warrants it... that and you’re just a few miles past warranty :D
 
You could probably switch to 500 hours for both. 500 hours is the standard for many industrial ISB/QSB engines, and your duty cycle certainly warrants it... that and you’re just a few miles past warranty :D
Based on my average miles per hour of 57.3....I’m only accruing around 261.8 drive hours every 15,000 miles. Sometimes it’s changed a little earlier, between 13.5k and 14.0k.
 
A basic and easy oil change along with a front drive shaft greasing.

I’ve use Fumoto drain valves for many many years. I really like them and never had an issue. It makes draining the oil easy and mess free.
I put the the Fumoto valve on my 18 when I did the first oil change a couple of months ago. I've used them on all of my diesels over the years. But I do not like how it's mounted on the Ram. I will be replacing it with a low profile valve:
https://www.genosgarage.com/product/ez-dp-18mmpla-dg/drain-valves
I then greased the front drive shaft. It was easy to find the zerk as it was marked by a spot of orange paint. I assume from the factory as I didn’t do this. It’s still relatively easy to spot.
What tool did you use to grease that?
 
What tool did you use to grease that?

I use a grease needle. In fact I use the same needle on just about any fitting. I have another gun I have setup with a Lock-n-Lube adapter. It’s far superior to the standard grease gun fitting.

6FBD519C-B5D0-43EC-9FC5-0D8C1410CB0A.jpeg

Id say two, It usually takes me one to get it on the lift and let that hot oil drain out......:)

Ah, I don’t have a lift. I just have to suffer a tad and enjoy the barley pop.
 
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