Check Engine Light (transmission codes)

[Sneaklylilpetey]

2006 Ram 2500 5.9 cummins AT is throwing some codes. I just dropped a new motor in it, truck has been sitting since about 2015 at my father in-laws. Right now it's throwing codes-
P0868-Transmission fluid Pressure sensor - low
P0713-Transmission fluid pressure sensor- high input
P1750-solenoid assembly malfunction

Sounds to me like some sensors went bad inside the trans? I'll be pulling the pan tomorrow and draining the fluid. Anyone deal with these codes before and know exactly what to replace




It's also throwing other codes like P0517-Batter temp sensor circuit high and P0646 AC Compressor clutch relay circuit low. I'm not worried about these as I'll be replacing the batteries and then getting the AC unit recharged since it was open.

 

[Ozymandias]

Did you delete the codes and do they come back?

 

[Sneaklylilpetey]

Did you delete the codes and do they come back?

Yes I did. I even pulled the negatives off both batteries to reset ecu

 

[Ozymandias]

Yes I did. I even pulled the negatives off both batteries to reset ecu

Okay, did you drive it for a cold/hot cycle to free a might sticky valve after such a long time?

Is the ground wire in place between firewall and transmission? This is often overseen when the engine is pulled and reinstalled.

 

[Sneaklylilpetey]

Okay, did you drive it for a cold/hot cycle to free a might sticky valve after such a long time?

Is the ground wire in place between firewall and transmission? This is often overseen when the engine is pulled and reinstalled.

I drove it up and down my long driveway but didn't get out of 1st gear.
You know what, the ground wire is not connected, I remember seeing it dangling. That ground would cause these issues?

 

[Ozymandias]

It can yes, go over the wiring very thoroughly.

I think you don't have a mechanical problem, these trucks are really picky in the electrical direction.
Same with your dead battery's, they throw all kinds of codes.

Do the wiring and new battery's and then we start with the transmission if the codes don't go away .

 

[Sneaklylilpetey]

I put the truck up on ramps and drained the trans oil because I got the ATS pressure solenoid coming next week. I noticed while driving it up on the ramps that the truck was in drive but it wasn't going up the ramps. It seems the gear select is very touchy. When I bring it up in park it thinks it's in reverse, if it nudge it just a little it goes into park.
I got new battery cables coming next week and a new ground to firewall cable since I ripped that one while removing the engine. I'm wondering if maybe the TTVA is bad?
I'll buy new batteries as well.

 

[Sneaklylilpetey]

I'm also replacing the pressure transducer while I'm working down there with the BD diesel 1060602 part.

 

[Ozymandias]

For me I've chosen the Rostra HD transducer over the BD part that has mixed reviews. Together with the DNJ block and the GM solenoid.

But like said, first do the battery's and the ground strap before spending any money on other hardware.

And, I'm unsure about the TTVA needs a relearn procedure. Could be.

 

[Sneaklylilpetey]

For me I've chosen the Rostra HD transducer over the BD part that has mixed reviews. Together with the DNJ block and the GM solenoid.

But like said, first do the battery's and the ground strap before spending any money on other hardware.

And, I'm unsure about the TTVA needs a relearn procedure. Could be.

Ahh I like the price much better on the Rostra transducer. Ill put that one in.

 

[tjm]

I put the truck up on ramps and drained the trans oil because I got the ATS pressure solenoid coming next week. I noticed while driving it up on the ramps that the truck was in drive but it wasn't going up the ramps. It seems the gear select is very touchy. When I bring it up in park it thinks it's in reverse, if it nudge it just a little it goes into park.
I got new battery cables coming next week and a new ground to firewall cable since I ripped that one while removing the engine. I'm wondering if maybe the TTVA is bad?
I'll buy new batteries as well.

this will solve your "nudging it into park problem"

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/48re-neutral-safety-switch-insulator.270611/

 

[Sneaklylilpetey]

this will solve your "nudging it into park problem"

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/48re-neutral-safety-switch-insulator.270611/

Awesome, thanks for the help

 

[Sneaklylilpetey]

Well I went down this rabbit hole and removed the valve body to replace that work rooster foot. Unfortunately I forgot to remove the neutral safety switch harness so I busted the bracket that mounts on the valve body. Hopefully that harness is not too expensive.
I left the rod in the truck and just removed that e clip like the BD instructions stated. Doesn't look like it'll be too difficult to pop it back in during install.

 

[tjm]

Well I went down this rabbit hole and removed the valve body to replace that work rooster foot. Unfortunately I forgot to remove the neutral safety switch harness so I busted the bracket that mounts on the valve body. Hopefully that harness is not too expensive.
I left the rod in the truck and just removed that e clip like the BD instructions stated. Doesn't look like it'll be too difficult to pop it back in during install.

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I love rabbit holes. lol.

is the black neutral safety switch insulator worn?

 

[Sneaklylilpetey]

I love rabbit holes. lol.

is the black neutral safety switch insulator worn?

What do you mean by worn? Where would it get worn down?

 

[tjm]

What do you mean by worn? Where would it get worn down?

On the edge where the neutral safety switch plunger rubs against it when you shift gears


like my old one. see the valley right down the middle?


#ad

 

[Sneaklylilpetey]

On the edge where the neutral safety switch plunger rubs against it when you shift gears


like my old one. see the valley right down the middle?


#ad

Oh yeah.. mine looked almost exactly like that. Nice little groove in the middle. I put the new piece in, just need to pick up a rivet gun tomorrow and then but the new cable harness that I snapped off

 

[cerberusiam]

That is not the neutral safety switch, that is the trans control harness. Time for a new harness with solenoids, a transducer, and DNJ gov housing and upgraded solenoid so all you have to worry about replacing is the transducer. The neutral safety switch is in the range sensor, probably need that also if you have replaced lately.

 

[Sneaklylilpetey]

That is not the neutral safety switch, that is the trans control harness. Time for a new harness with solenoids, a transducer, and DNJ gov housing and upgraded solenoid so all you have to worry about replacing is the transducer. The neutral safety switch is in the range sensor, probably need that also if you have replaced lately.

You are correct, I realized that after I did my research. I found a new harness and ordered it.
I already have a new transducer and ATS diesel pressure solenoid block kit coming this week.

 

[Sneaklylilpetey]

Ok Here's the list of things I changed with new parts. I'm still getting all the same check engine lights as before. I tried to clear with them with my OBDII app but it's not clearing.
I took the truck up and down my long driveway and it's lacking power. From a stop I step on it and its so sluggish, just revs up to about 2k and never really gets going. It move but nothing like it should be. I'm in a gravel driveway and I can't even spin the back tires if I step on it hard enough. I'm pretty sure the turbo is bad since the old engine went bad (brother in law ran it out of oil after a dumbass forgot to tighten the drain plug)

ATS Pressure Solenoid Block
Rostra Transmission Transducer
Lock up & Overdrive Solenoid
2 new batters
8 quarts ATF+4 trans fluid and new filter
New ground strap from firewall to engine block