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99 Auto P or N to D or R Stalls

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Steering box braces

1999 5.9 AC problem

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A few posts back, I think you said that you were given the opportunity to install RV275 HP injectors. I think would have tried them. My hunch is that the problem would have disappeared just because the ECM would have had a much easier time controlling idle with the injector's lower flow rate.- John

I agree with John, I would have taken the opportunity to try them and see if there was any change. That would rule them out completely since the whole issue started with the injector change.
Also, just my $0.02, but I'd also put in a new set of Crossover Tubes, new O-rings, Injector Seals, O-rings, and Washers, and make sure you don't have any washers left in the holes that need to be removed. Also, check with the builder and see if you need to use the stock washers or a thinner/thicker one.

John and Papa, thanks for your replies and I know it's hard to remember all details of this and the other long a_s threads (let alone what we had for breakfast...LOL) so, clarifying the comments regarding RV275s from prior posts =
1- the trans builder wanted to install RV275s to see if the thing would idle, of course he didn't have any and that "hmm, lets see if this works" would have cost me whatever more for the injectors + $350 (again) for an R & R. I was done with let's try this and see at my expense, I can swap out injectors and save $350 in labor and now that the weather is pretty much on my side I ain't paying someone to do something I can do.
2- I also mentioned that a friend of mine had a set he was using for his engine build that he might let me try, but those (as well as his ECM) were already installed on the engine by his engine builder. My friend said he'd love to let me use both but since his engine hasn't yet been run if there were to be a problem on 1st time running it after total rebuild, he didn't want his builder to have any excuses and have an opportunity to say "I told you not to lend the ECM and injectors" and "now whatever problems with this engine are related to who knows what happened to the things you loaned". You know how it is sometimes people want to blame everything on someone else, so I totally agree with his reasoning not to lend.

As for the injector washers/seals = bottom of injector to head used - were the ones supplied by FLUX Diesel (both the recent "newly built Mach 5's" and the "prior rebuilt my old Mach 5's" I sent that were opened up to 5.5's used the seals supplied by FLUX).

AND

Talk to folks that have the same mods and truck as mine to see... I'm the dinosaur here all those guys have moved on to new and non-diesel trucks. Silly them, or perhaps at this point silly me? Nope I'm taking my truck to the grave... It is "drivable" but always having the chance of stalling when going from D to R doesn't equate to a safe or reliable to drive truck, at least not to me.

Lastly and NEW UPDATE:
I reached out to FLUX via email asking them to provide information on pop-off and leak-down pressures used when final testing the new Mach 5's they built and shipped.
So we'll see what FLUX says they test/set at/to...

Mopar1973man's site - he replied to my thread including info on Fuel System Pressures--Diesel Engines -> Injector Pop-off 310 bars and Leak-down approx. 20 bars lower than pop pressure.

MoparMan also said, and I quote him, "All Cummins ISB Engines idle at 800 RPM. Proper injectors should hover with +/- 10 RPM from 800 RPM".
His OEM stock injectors tested out at 260 bar and 120k miles and the idle was 850 RPM.
He has + 150 HP injectors popped at 320 bar and his truck idles exactly at the 800 with an +/- 5 RPM.
NOTE: my truck is idling at 850 with the +/- 50-ish fluctuation mentioned earlier in previous post somewhere??? Thing is I thought it always idled at 850-ish but I could be wrong? I can't remember my own name at this point. Ah, good thing my name is at the top of each post...
 
I saw where he got new o-rings but must have missed where he said he replaced the tubes. Too much reading on this one for my old mind.....

I hear ya on that Papa, for sure, for sure... What A RPIA writing it and reading it then trying to remember .... stuff. Thank God we can scroll back and check things ... if we remember not to forget we can do that ... LMAO... Good night all.
 
So, have you replaced the tubes or not? Let me look at the shop and see if we have a set of injectors. I think we have a set and we don’t have any VP buses anymore. If so, I can send them to you to try. I’ll let you know.
 
Scott, Thanks for looking. Yes tubes were replaced.

All here's reply from Flux regarding my "pop-off" question. Your thoughts...

From Don
We use an opening (pop) pressure of 285 to 290 bar. The nozzle is designed for this. Actually the used ones drop to the 260 and below range often. This lower pressure has never been an issue for us, but the higher pressure settings have. Anything over about 305 has caused a few trucks to run rough at idle.
 
All here's reply from Flux regarding my "pop-off" question. Your thoughts...From Don
We use an opening (pop) pressure of 285 to 290 bar. The nozzle is designed for this. Actually the used ones drop to the 260 and below range often. This lower pressure has never been an issue for us, but the higher pressure settings have. Anything over about 305 has caused a few trucks to run rough at idle.

Asked Flux to share difference of their nozzle design compared to OEM, more holes, different material??? Awaiting reply.


At this point, like 10 minutes ago

Got tired of all the...stuff???

Ordered a "new" set of RV275's from Dale's Super Store (https://dalessuperstore.com/i-23916...432193635-1998-5-2002-dodge-cummins-5-9l.html), confirmed new not reman, they gave me a promo code for $10 off, free shipping, 3 day delivery, and no core to return, $305.00 to my door.

We'll see what this yields, hopefully no stall and the idle at wherever it is supposed to be. I'm believing Mopar1973man's reply WTE "All ISB engines idle at 800 +/- 10 rpms.

Just want to be able to drive without stalling at this point. Still awaiting reply from Flux on difference in the nozzles they build versus stock.

Keep your fingers and toes crossed ladies and gents...

More to come...
 
Joe,How long does it take you to change injectors ?. You should do a video as you have to be the resident expert by now :D
 
Joe,How long does it take you to change injectors ?. You should do a video as you have to be the resident expert by now :D

Yuk, yuk. Very funny.... Thanks I needed that. Never timed myself maybe this time for sss and giggles I will.
 
Yes long thread for sure, don't forget about my first one that I had closed too...
Hope the "tester sticks" i have coming work...
 
Well unfortunately I can't upload a video (guess it's too big?) so I'll have to explain, gads...
Over the past few days, since I stupid misread a post on another site and disconnected the batteries with the truck running and it stalled BTW now I know 2 things 1-don't disconnect the batteries with the truck running and 2-don't disconnect the batteries with the truck running...
Since the alternator was out, I took it to have it bench test and was ok, I decided to pull the harness from the alt side to the vp side and inspect.
I methodically removed the tape and spring loom on wire (mess) harness bit by bit, inspecting wires then re-taping each section as I went. All was good. Since I had wires revealed I decided to do the wrap in foil, wrap in insulating tape and then regular e-tape over the large lead from the alt I've hear about for years - even though I've had the DTT noise suppressor thing from the time the original (1st built) trans was done - you know "just because I was there".
I was concerned that I screwed the ECM or PCM or both up with the disconnect batteries while running thing and wanted to make sure at least the wiring was good, before I reinstalled the alt.
Reinstalled the alt, connected the batteries and went for it = this would have been better if I was able to load a video here...
Turned key to on, transfer pump normal psi, wait to start out, turn key and she fired right up "Thank God" apparently I didn't fry anything.
A bit colder today so after grid heater went off I put in R to see if it would stall, didn't stall but (as been the whole thing since installing refreshed injectors etc., etc. had been if it didn't stall) the idle abruptly dropped and then just as abruptly rose and settled in.
BTW I noticed the idle is actually closer to 800 than I originally stated at 850. But it is still fluctuating rpms about 5-10 up and down while idling be it in or out of gear.

Awaiting the new "test" injectors from Dale's to arrive and then we should be able to tell if the stall/almost stall deal is or isn't related to the Flux injectors...

Stay tuned...
 
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Mine has always fluctuated a very little bit since new. I can't hear it but the tach shows it, it doesn't sit solid.
 
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