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voltage gage goes to 8 volt mark

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Ecm question

Super nut

Ronny,
I don't recall if you responded to my query earlier. (Post # 53)
What brand and model is you multimeter?
 
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OK, going to answer your questions 1 at a time.
John- Leads as you stated, meter neg. on Batt. neg and meter pos. on alt. post. I used both of my meters, neither of which are Fluke class meters. My alt. is original with 325k miles/23 yrs. Never been off the truck until this episode occurred. Original ECM and PCM. I cleaned connections and checked grounds before I started troubleshooting.

Bruce- Both my meters have 2 AC scales. 750 that reads full volts and 200 that has a decimal point reading. DC scales are 2,20,200,2000. It has a diode test function, but I'm not sure how to use it.(I use that setting to test continuity, because it beeps in that setting) I don't even know what the duty cycle setting looks like, so probably not.
RB
 
OK, sorry. I'm coming home and reading the days post and respponding 1 question at a time.
Bruce- meter #1-Wavetek 10XL, #2- Throwdown Commercial electric MS8301A
 
My alt. is original with 325k miles/23 yrs. Never been off the truck until this episode occurred

I think you got your miles out of it. I am assuming that you read high AC voltage using both meters. It does sound like you have a diode issue. Also, I can't imagine that there is any life left in the brushes, either. Time to replace the alternator - or have a local auto-electric shop rebuild it (that would be my choice).

Thanks for the detailed feedback.

- John
 
Not many alt./starter rebuilders anymore with O'Reilly on every corner. I'll look it up and see. Maybe in Houston.
 
Not many alt./starter rebuilders anymore with O'Reilly on every corner. I'll look it up and see. Maybe in Houston.

Found this place on a web search. Anywhere near you?

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Not many alt./starter rebuilders anymore with O'Reilly on every corner. I'll look it up and see. Maybe in Houston.

My experience is that you will be better off, if you don't rebuild the alternator, with a new Denso or other name brand rather than the typical box parts store rebuild. I had a lifetime warranty that I used at least once a year, usually in the store parking lot, in the rain or snow for about 5 iterations. I broke down, bought a factory replacement Denso and haven't had a problem in a very long time.
 
I had a lifetime warranty that I used at least once a year, usually in the store parking lot, in the rain or snow for about 5 iterations. I broke down, bought a factory replacement Denso and haven't had a problem in a very long time.

Well said. I would rather buy a new product (like an alternator) that has a one year warranty but has a reputation for performing a trouble free 15 - 20 year average than buy a re-manufactured product with a lifetime warranty.

In 1988 I purchased a new 4BTA Cummins engine to do an engine conversion in my 1984 Ford Van. The Cummins engine warranty at the time was 5 years, 100,000 miles. As I was getting ready to write the check for the transaction, the guy at the counter asks, "Would you like to purchase an Extended Warranty?" After a pause I replied, "I am a bit concerned here, because I thought that this engine could run an average of 500,000 miles with just regular maintenance. Is there something you are not telling me?" He sheepishly says, "I know, I know..., but I am required to ask." Of course, I never had any problems with the engine.

- John
 
I think the "Old Red Mare" deserves a new one. I have been blessed with the overall performance of my truck. In no order, here is a list of replaced parts since 2001, excluding wear and tear items. 2-VP44's, 1-lift pump, 1-radiator, 2-waterpumps, 1-Tappet cover gasket and vacuum pump rebuild, 3-Clutches, 1-transmission rebuild @268K, 1- LSD clutch pack, 1-set Front rotors, calipers and shoes, 2-Front end rebuilds with 3rd gen. steering on last one, 1-set Injectors last month.
 
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