12v 96'Suburban swap

[EWalshak]

I havent been on the site in a while. Wanted to give an update. The burb has been running good lately. I did have an issue with the radiator/fan clearance. I got on the fuel pretty hard leaving an intersection a few months back. The motor flexed enough for the fan to catch on the radiator. It was a mess. Needless to say I replaced the fan and radiator. I also moved the radiator,intercooler, ac condensor further away from the motor and havent had a problem since. I got the trans issue straighened out. It was a fluid problem. The shift light indicator is working and we just sent the speedometer signal converter back to have the company test it. Other than that we have been using it as a daily driver to haul the family around in. It has been on several road trips. Usually within 2hrs of home and it has done fine. At some point I may switch to a trans with lock-up or a manual of some sort but that is a project for another day.



Phantom 309, the trans has overdrive but no lock up, i hooke the hydroboost up to the cummins. Cruise is still not hooked up and the front springs are still the stock 3/4 ton spring that have 225k on them.

 

[nar472]

Glad it is on the road sorry about your radiator though.

Any milage numbers yet?

has the non-locking torque converter caused any heat issues for you?

 

[EWalshak]

The mileage figures right now are using a gps for the miles driven. 16. 5-18 around town 19-21 on thw highway. I will figure it again once I get the speedometer signal converter back and installed/working. Im glad the rad problem happened reletively close to home and also while I was driving and not my wife. The trans has not given me any heat issues that I know of. The mileage was also figured before I got the trans fluid level issue straighened out so I imagine it was slipping some. I also traded the cone style air filter for a stock airbox from a 95 CTD and reduced the interior noise a good deal.

 

[phantom 309]

good to see your follow up,. my swap got put to the back of the line, i sold the first 12v,. then bought a complete 96 laramie slt 3500 dually for a donor with a P pump,. it has the 46? 47? RE trans, I have to get the brackets mounts etc,. from that place in montana,. but it will set me back over 1000 dollars,. It,s actually the next project in line, i also bought 3:42 gears for the rear of my dually, and i will buy a lower stall converter.
The hydroboost i think i have figured out.

Nick

 

[EWalshak]

I can let you in on a way to save money on custom motor mounts. I purchased a set of high dollar motor mounts. They are collecting dust on my work bench because they transfered so much vibration thru the frame and steering wheel. I was able to use the 1st gen mounts that were with my donor motor. They actually lined up with the holes on the frame of the burb. I can explain to you what I did to modify them to work if your interested. It might save you some $. Let me know.

 

[nar472]

The mileage figures right now are using a gps for the miles driven. 16. 5-18 around town 19-21 on thw highway. I will figure it again once I get the speedometer signal converter back and installed/working. Im glad the rad problem happened reletively close to home and also while I was driving and not my wife. The trans has not given me any heat issues that I know of. The mileage was also figured before I got the trans fluid level issue straighened out so I imagine it was slipping some. I also traded the cone style air filter for a stock airbox from a 95 CTD and reduced the interior noise a good deal.

That is very respectable mpg especially considering the torque converter isn't locking up. It will be interesting to see what kind of mpg it gets when you get all the "little" things ironed out, although I would be very happy with what you are getting right now.

And I am with you on things breaking down on me instead of the wife if it has to break down I would much rather it be on me instead of her.

 

[phantom 309]

I can let you in on a way to save money on custom motor mounts. I purchased a set of high dollar motor mounts. They are collecting dust on my work bench because they transfered so much vibration thru the frame and steering wheel. I was able to use the 1st gen mounts that were with my donor motor. They actually lined up with the holes on the frame of the burb. I can explain to you what I did to modify them to work if your interested. It might save you some $. Let me know.

yes i would like to know,. thankyou,.



Nick

 

[EWalshak]

Nick, it would be easier for me to explain this over the phone. PM me a number and I will call you and tell you what I came up with. Erik

 

[DVolk]

Id like to know the same thing as its looking like im going to have to build a diffrent burb either with a 4bt that i have or pull a part my 83 and use the parts on a newer one maybe strait axel swap unless a score a 3/4 ton burb , so what was the issue you ran across with those clam shell mounts you used was it the poor rubbers on the clamsell or just how it was mounted ? or am i better off to use the dodge style mounts like what Autowrld uses ? did you have any exhaust manifold issues ?

 

[EWalshak]

I used the mounts from a 1st gen CTD truck. The mounts consist of three parts. A piece that is cast and mounts to the engine block. A formed piece made from 1/4" material that connects the first piece I mentioned to the rubber isolater which mounts to the frame. I modified the formed piece by adding a piece to it which effectively raised it up in relation to the motor. I turned the rubber isolator 90deg and it all worked really well. I also made spacers out of 1/2 steel to go between the frame pad on the burb and the rubber isolator. It sounds like a lot of work but if I knew ahead of time how miserable it would be to drive the burb with all that vibration coming thru the steering wheel as well as the seat I never would have spent the $350 on them. The ones I purchase used the factory 6. 5 frame mounts which are pretty skimpy as far as the rubber goes. They were not designed to handle the weight or vibration of the CTD. Im sure a person can buy the two pieces on ebay and get the rubber isolator new from the auto parts store. For the exhaust I purchased a !st gen 4"downpipe and a second gen 4" full exhaust from Rip Rook at Source Automotive. I had to cut the down pipe in a few places and make a few changes to get it to fit. The rest of the exhaust fit pretty good. I will plan to post a sketch of how I modified the motor mount braket so you will know exactly what I did in order for it to work.

 

[EWalshak]

DVolk I see in your sig that you have a 83 burb in progress. How is that going? How far are you in the process of getting it together?

 

[DVolk]

I need to figure out to change my signature the 83 is done now when i can find some to to get back on it a 85 dodge crew cab . but my wife wants a newer burb and my 83 has some rust issues and is too tall and like you i bought the mounts from Scott ,i used poly mounts though on everything , i do have the first gen mounts avalible , im just trying to figure out the best fastest was to do a newer burb eith a 4bt and stock auto or do my 6bt and 5 speed etc just need to know the best mounts , i see that auto world uses what looks like first gen mounts of which the other guy says are not good ??????????

 

[EWalshak]

Im not familiar with the autoworld mounts so I cant comment on them. I think a 1/2 ton burb with a 4bt is a swell idea though. The straight front axle swap sounds good as well. Keep me posted. if there is anything I can do to help let me know. If I can help with mounts or anything let me know.

 

[RHestand]

EWalshak,
That seems like great mileage for a non-lockup. What rear gears do you have and what does your rig weigh?
With my 98 P-pump here in Santa Cruz, CA my TC is almost never locked up (Mostly stop and go, 25-35 mph, 8000lbs, and 4. 11 gears. ) I get 10-11 mpg.
Now when I'm living in WI, My house is several miles out of town and I drive mostly on rural roads (45-60 mph with TC locked. ) I get 17-18 mpg.
I hate driving it here in Santa Cruz, not only because of the poor mileage, but it's also very seldom that it gets up to and sustains operating temperatures. Consequently, I don't drive it here any more than I have to.
TIA, Ray

 

[EWalshak]

I dont know the weight for sure. 373's in the rear. From what Ive read the 1st gen rotary pump motors will get better fuel mileage than the p-pump motors. Although I did get 24. 12mpg out of my 98 12v. That was hand calculated. On the highway driving like a grandma. The mileage that I figured for the burb was using the gps for the miles driven. Ive figured it a few times and my bro in law figured it when he used the burb the week we were away on vacation. 17-18 is very respectable for your truck considering you have 4. 10's in your truck. From what I understand 4. 10's will kill mpg's. When I bought my 98 it had 4. 10's. After a week they were out and replaced with 3. 55's.

 

[DVolk]

Did you get any instructions or a manual with those 6. 5 mounts ?, id like to see them

did you have any install pics are you intercooled or not ?along with the ac how is that hooked up and the throttel etc

 

[EWalshak]

No manual or instructions with the mounts. It is intercooled. AC works. Fuel pedal came from the donor truck. Had to do some retrofitting for it to work. Id be happy to get you pics of anything. Let me know what you want. Id be happy to sell you those if you want them. It was easier to make mine with the motor already in the burb in the right location with those mounts.

 

[DVolk]

Id any or all pics you have i think a person can never have too much info what had to be removed with those mounts ? . I have one stupid question ? Why did you need to replace the fuel pedal ? unless that stock 6. 5 was a drive by wire it seams strange .

I looked at a 94 it had a cabel and a 99 today that had a cabel the 94 was a big POS and the 99 they were firm when it needed 1500 in interior /body work not to mention leaking front axel seals what do you want for those mounts ?

 

[EWalshak]

Nothing had to be removed for the mounts they slipped over the stock 6. 5 frame mounts. Make me an offer on them. I paid 325 or 350 for them. Dont expect that much but they are collecting dust so whatever you think they are worth to you. My burb was drive by wire. Keep in mind when shopping for a burb that anything 96 and newer you will have OBD2 to think about. If you shop aroud you should be able to find a good candidate that is relatively clean for a good price. Have you decided on a 4bt or a 6bt yet. I would like to do a 4bt is something myself. In a burb or blazer or maybe even a Tahoe.

 

[DVolk]

I dont want to insult you on a price , im thinking cheap , how does that transmission hold up im not shure if the 6. 5 one is any thing more special other than the converter stall speed , im not shure on the obII issue as my engines are all older ones , if i use the 4bt id use the engine harness and idot warning system it has , or mechanicle guages .

Im told by one guy that the 4bt hits why is beyond me but one place says its a go ?

al i know it needs to be a fast job or im going to have to get a rolling frame then a body swap