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2500 vs 3500

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overhead gauge install - dimmer wire?

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BobD said:
Yes it is the 3500 Single RW that I am considering.



What about the wheels on the Larmie Package they are Aluminum, are they good looking or should I Opt for the Steel chrome clad wheels and save $100. 00????



Just a thought. Take-off aluminum factory wheels are not hard to find. Get your truck with the chrome then purchase stock aluminum take-offs with tires on them for less than $1000. Then you have both sets to rotate as your mood changes (I use skinny tires/chrome in the winter, wide and tall on aluminum in the summer).
 
Tim said:
DOT doesn't care what the truck is rated, for, they only want to make sure it is plated for the weight you're running.



Either way I don't overload my truck, but the only way to get a ticket is to be over what your plates are for.



I think that varies from state to state. My registration and/or tags in Colorado and Arizona have never mentioned any weight limits (or I am blind).
 
When I purchased my 3500 srw, I test drove a 2500 1st. Seemed like there was something wrong with the it. It rattled like mad and was noisey. Don't ask why. Kinda weird. Anyhow test drove the 3500, what a difference. Solid, handled better, and suprisingly a smoother ride. As far as the wheels, I had the dealership take off the aluminum wheels and put on the steel crome ones. (no charge)Looks better in my opinion.

Anyway, my 2 cents
 
test drove 2500 & 3500 Today

JHardwick said:
yeah yeah, thats is :D we'll go with that :D



Honestly, I can't see a reason to go with a 2500 at all. The progrssive loading lets the 3500 ride as well as a 2500, but you have the extra load capacity when you need it!



Today was the first time I drove a 3500dealer just got it in.

I found the 3500 rode stiffer than the 2500 on the same test drive On the freeway both rode the same. But not on rough rural two lane. I will be driving my new truck with only a shell on it for 3/4 of the time. I had intended to only test drive the 3500 auto and a 2500 stick, but the salesman pulled out and 2500 auto for me instead of a 3500 auto as I had just driven the 3500 auto. I am glad I drove it.



I was figuring to buy a 3500 just in case I later on went with a bigger trailer etc. Now I am rethinking this



Would appreciate your thoughts



Bill
 
Removing the overloads

SNOKING said:
Get the 3500 and remove the overload stops or springs until you really need them. SNOKING



I don't think the truck every came close to the overload stops as I was only going 25 to 35 mpg on the road. but when I would cross railroad tracks or the refectors on the center line ( I forget there name) I could feel it. It was Just a stiffer ride than the 2500. Was it just this 3500? or do you guys find this same type of ride on and empty 3500. ?



I will check the tire pressure on the 2500 & 3500 next time before I test so all is equal. I think the non overload spring packs are different from memory I think there are 5 leaves on the and was it 4 on the 3500 but they were thicker.



Bill,
 
abdiver said:
I don't think the truck every came close to the overload stops as I was only going 25 to 35 mpg on the road. but when I would cross railroad tracks or the refectors on the center line ( I forget there name) I could feel it. It was Just a stiffer ride than the 2500. Was it just this 3500? or do you guys find this same type of ride on and empty 3500. ?



I will check the tire pressure on the 2500 & 3500 next time before I test so all is equal. I think the non overload spring packs are different from memory I think there are 5 leaves on the and was it 4 on the 3500 but they were thicker.



Bill,



Yeah, make sure the rear tires are around 44 lbs empty for a good ride. SNOKING
 
abdiver I got your pm just now, I've been away for two days.



After owning a 2500 and now the 3500, I can say there isn't any difference in ride quality between the two rigs. I should say until you hit the overloads though. It is rare to make contact with the overloads unless you are loaded heavy though.



I would say you have more air pressure in the 3500 tester.
 
aseigworth said:
I am a computer network engineer, not an auto engineer!

I was looking at Dodge SRW 3500's last fall, but new that it was not the complete answer to being over my GVWR, as the new trucks additional weight was going to eat up most of the 1100 lb increase in GVWR.

SNOKING



Is this why the 2200 lb increase in GVWR only shows up as an 1100 lb increase in your post??? There's not 1100 lbs of fenders and wheels on the dually![/QUOTE]



I was referring to the difference between my current 8800 lb GVWR and 3500 SRW 9900 lb GVWR, extra weight of the newer extended cab truck eats up a lot of the 1100 lb difference. SNOKING
 
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