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4X4 Front Drive Shaft - Lubrication point?

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Has anyone heard of someone breaking the Cardan/ball joint when lubing it? I purchased my 2013 used a couple of weeks ago. Apparently, the previous owner DID NOT believe this zerk grease point existed. I believe that it has never been lubricated and the truck has over 40K miles. Once I understood I was lubing the Cardan/ball joint I found it quickly after picking out the cement-like-clay from the zerk. I made a mess of the area with the overflow grease and was not 100% the joint was getting any so I removed the driveshaft. I laid the driveshaft on a piece of cardboard on the garage floor and cleaned off all the rogue grease. I was then able to insert the needle into the zerk and grease it really well so I thought. The grease gun was extremely difficult to squeeze and the joint finally made a popping noise and a bit of grease came out the other end of the ball joint however...it is like the Cardan/ball is now dislocated...I finally got it to move again but CV joint assembly will not straighten out! I'm guessing something got dislodge in the Cardan/ball joint and is keeping it from seating, or maybe it is broke?

I have broken off injection needles greasing that joint. I don't know if i left some of the needle in there or not.
 
It has been my experience that CV joints (technically double cardan) do not straighten out. That is just how they are.
 
This is the gun and needle that I use. I bent the needle as shown and it just fits in past the trans cross member and wiring harness.

GreaseGun.jpg


GreaseGun.jpg
 
On my 2006 Mega Cab, i use a long Lincoln 5803 type needle (see post 67) on a regular grease gun and go right up through the hole in my crossmember after i line up the Cardan joint with the hole (straight down).....easy peasy. Just wondering if anyone else has tried it this way
Cheers
Wayne
 
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I have broken off injection needles greasing that joint. I don't know if i left some of the needle in there or not.

Newsa, are you using the Lincoln type needle??.....cant see how you can break them off or damage the Cardan joint with it.

(Lincoln Lubrication 5803 Grease Needle Nozzle on Amazon)
 
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I am using the Lincoln 5803 needle.Its actually more like a tapered tip that just fits in the tiny "saucer like" injection site of the Cardan joint. After i discovered that i could grease it through the hole in my crossmember,its been too easy .
 
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On my 2006 Mega Cab, i use a long Lincoln 5803 type needle (see post 67) on a regular grease gun and go right up through the hole in my crossmember after i line up the Cardan joint with the hole (straight down).....easy peasy. Just wondering if anyone else has tried it this way
Cheers
Wayne

Selection mistake
 
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Great thread - after removing the skid plate, I used a Lincoln 5803 needle nozzle on a mini grease gun. No problem with access and 5- 7 pumps pushed gease out the center hole. I used the LUCAS X-TRA heavy duty grease in lieu of the LUCUS RED since that is all I had. I know it was suggested that the RED be used but does it make a difference?????
 
Great thread - after removing the skid plate, I used a Lincoln 5803 needle nozzle on a mini grease gun. No problem with access and 5- 7 pumps pushed gease out the center hole. I used the LUCAS X-TRA heavy duty grease in lieu of the LUCUS RED since that is all I had. I know it was suggested that the RED be used but does it make a difference?????

The OEM grease recommended I think is lithium grease?

I use synthetic marine grease (green in color) because of road elements. As long as you do it once or twice a year (depending on mileage), you will likely be ok with HD grease.
 
A needle point adapter is not the right tool. You should have a tapered point adapter that seats in the button grease fitting. I made this one years ago. There are similar commercial ones available.

#ad


Here is a link to one.

https://locknlube.com/collections/greasing-accessories/products/narrow-needle-nose-dispenser

BTW poking at the little ball and spring check valve with a needle adapter gives you a chance of damaging the check valve in the button style grease fitting.

SnoKing
 
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A needle point adapter is not the right tool. You should have a tapered point adapter that seats in the button grease fitting. I made this one years ago. There are similar commercial ones available.

#ad


Here is a link to one.

https://locknlube.com/collections/greasing-accessories/products/narrow-needle-nose-dispenser

BTW poking at the little ball and spring check valve with a needle adapter gives you a chance of damaging the check valve in the button style grease fitting.

SnoKing


There is a cross member in the way... Good luck with that on the old frame
.... 2013 2500
 
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A needle point adapter is not the right tool. You should have a tapered point adapter that seats in the button grease fitting. I made this one years ago. There are similar commercial ones available.

#ad


Here is a link to one.

https://locknlube.com/collections/greasing-accessories/products/narrow-needle-nose-dispenser

BTW poking at the little ball and spring check valve with a needle adapter gives you a chance of damaging the check valve in the button style grease fitting.

SnoKing
I agree totally. My little ball is long gone. I had that tapered style, it didn't work well for me.
 
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Question: with the BW44-46 transfer case is the front drive shaft in constant motion when the transmission is engaged.

I watch a video with the 46 transfer case that the shaft only turned when the 4WD was engaged.
So for owners whom only use the 4WD system once or twice a year service might not be as often.
 
Question: with the BW44-46 transfer case is the front drive shaft in constant motion when the transmission is engaged.

I watch a video with the 46 transfer case that the shaft only turned when the 4WD was engaged.
So for owners whom only use the 4WD system once or twice a year service might not be as often.

yes that is correct. I think the requirement to grease every oil change is left over from the era where the front drive shaft turned all the time.
 
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