5'er Hitch installation "issues"

[JThiessen]

I just had my Husky Slider installed in the '03 2500 by Tims Welding & Toys for Trucks. They dont normally carry the Husky brand name, but informed me that they install them all the time.

They weld the brackets on instead of bolting, which I checked out, and per the TSB, welding is "ok" by certified welders.

When I hooked up to my 5'er (2001 27ft Jayco) I noticed right away that there was a significant difference in the distance from my rear bumper and the trailer, in that it was much closer than it was with my short box. I attributed this to the difference between short/long box, and that DC moved the rear axle back...

But this afternoon I finally tracked down installation sheets for the '03 and they state that the rear rail should be installed 28 1/2" from the back of the box, thus putting the pin right over the axle. I measured mine, and its 34 1/2. This puts the center of the pin about 5" in front of the axle centerline (instead of right over the axle)

Is this an issue? I know that you want to avoid having it behind the axle, but is it really a problem having it 5" in front? What I really would like to avoid is having them grind off the brackets (leaving crud behind) and having more holes in the bed.



Thoughts????



Another issue is that my trailer still sits with its nose up 3 degrees (I lifted it using the additional holes in the Jake plates), but I guess I'm going to have to do an axle flip also to get it level...

 

[Casey Balvert]

I don't see that it is a problem having the pin five inches forward of the axle as long as there are no clearance problems between the truck and the trailer. I think the recommendation is 2 to 4 inches so you are pretty close. The three degree up angle needs to be addressed however as this puts too much of the trailer weight on the rear axle. The spring equalizers just cannot accommodate that much of a difference. My two cents Canadian.



Casey

 

[klenger]

You may have clearance problems with the tailgate down, so be carefull. I wouldn't move the hitch if you are not having any other problems. I think the more weight you can put on the front axle with a 5er the better off you are.

 

[CROW]

Weigh the truck and then weigh the truck and trailer together. If the weights are OK, go for a test pull and if it pulls OK, then go with it. One thing I noticed is that there is not a lot of excess front axle capacity due to the weight of the Cummins; this may be why they recommend mounting the hitch on the rear axle centerline rarther than in front of the axle.

 

[JThiessen]

More problems

Thanks for the input. I talked with the installer about it, and basically got a run around (buyer beware, huh?). They ended up offering to move it back, I told him I needed to think about it, and left. My gut feeling is that the 5 inches wont be an issue, especially since our 5'er only weighs 8K fully loaded.

When I got home and started really looking uderneath, I noticed that they didnt put the shims in between the bed channels and the supports, so there is about a half inch of exposed bolt between the frame bracket and the bottom of the bed. This part is where I get really concerned, its the primary load carrying connection, and EVERY manufacturer has these shims (at least all that I've seen).

So, tomorrow I'm skipping work and going down to Tork-Lift in Kent (they did my original installation in the '99). They are very good - everything professional down to a tee. But I know they are going to tell me that I should have them do the install the correct way, and its going to cost me plenty (probably another 400).

I feel that I should have something on Tims Welding legally, but my brain says it probably just another case of Buyer Beware. I have an appointment with them to flip my axles on Wednesday, but I really dont want them to touch anything else I own (even though the axel flip is very simple).

I dunno, maybe some of you guys could give me an outsider opinion... ... thanks... .

 

[RustyJC]

Definitely get the shims installed between the bed and brackets and retorque everything down solid. Otherwise, the pin load of the 5ver is being carried by the truck bed, not from the hitch through the rails, shims and directly to the frame as designed.



Rusty

 

[JThiessen]

Hitch is fixed

I bailed out of work this morning and went down to Torq-Lift in Kent WA, and they looked it over and decided the best thing to do was to put a bolt in each of the welded brackets on the frame (they didnt like the quality of the welds), and they put the shims in. Total 80 bucks.



I talked with the installer for a while and he nothing good to say about Dodge's new box frame, and the new layout of the bed. He said its the absolute worst fifth wheel installation they do. And he doesnt like the bracket kit that Valley (or Husky) came out with. He actually replaces the rear rail with a Reese rail, and custom fits his own bracket in there.



Thanks for the input guys...

 

[CFAR]

I'm not trying to flame you but I think you just taught everyone on the TDR a valuable lesson.



Cheaper ain't always better.



Thanks for the info.

 

[JThiessen]

Good Buy, or a Cheap Deal....

CFAR, your exactly right. I always shop around for everything I get (drives my wife NUTS). 99% of the time, I get what I was looking for.



Just as a final note on this, I stopped by the place today to show them what they did wrong. The front desk guy was actually quite suprised about the shims. He offered to refund me the amount I paid (in discount dollars), and I told him "I now have every reason to not trust the quality of your work, so use that 80 bucks to educate some of your employees on quality control". His jaw dropped for a second, and he just replied, "fair enough, I guess"... . and I walked away.

But now I'm thinkin' - I could probably get that 80 bucks applied to that set of oval tube Westins that I want... ..... hmmmmm

 

[mbrolin]

You hit the nail on the head as far as education. When a tech mentions that Dodge installs are the hardest that told me he didnt know what he was doing or was just lazy. I installed my Reese hitch on my 01. As per instructions,it was a simple install and this put the hitch pin 4" in front of the rear end. From what Ive read on the 03s it shouldnt be any harder to install a hitch following the hitch and truck manufacturers recommendations. Something tells me that the hitches are supposed to be directly above the rearend on the 03's but I could be wrong. Having been doing bodywork for the past 30 yrs Ive seen a lot of hitch installs and a majority looked like they were installed by the washboy. Terrible welds,poor fit,etc.

 

[Dean Upson]

PullRite has no drill, no weld brackets for the '03 trucks. Casey Balvert, Fireman and I have them. They work fine and the hitch itself is very well engineered.



Dean

 

[JThiessen]

D. U. - If I wouldnt have already had my own hitch (and a fairly new one at that), I would have shopped around for one like the Pull Rite that wouldnt have needed drilling or welding.



Michael B: It was actually the installer that knew his stuff that said the NEW '03 Dodges are the hardest. They are much different from your '01 frame - The new hydroformed frame is actually thinner, and Dodge put a lot of restrictions on drilling holes (ie, none in the top or bottom surfaces, and in the side they must be a minimum 1. 6" from the edge, and they limited the size to just over a half inch I believe). They also moved the rear axle back (not sure how much), and the "hat sections" under the box fall right where the bed rail bolts should be.

I read through the Valley/Huskey instructions for the 03 2500 and it is much tougher than the instructions for my '99. I can see where these places are either going to have to start charging more, or they are going to have to get dodge to give them some assistance in engineering a better installation.

 

[Steve M]

I installed mine in my '98, '01 and '03. I didn't find the '03 to be any harder than the others. It was actually less worry than the others as the box steel frame won't let you drill into the tank or wires, brake lines or fuel lines. The holes for the spacer tubes are no brainers and fishing the rib necked bolts in wasn't a problem either. I hope the pro's don't use the new frame as an excuse to raise the installation cost for those that don't "do it yourself".

 

[M36]

Recently had my Reese 15K installed in my 03. The same person that did the install in my 01, did the 03 job. This time I didnt let him weld it like he did before. He told me that with Reese there were two places he could bolt onto the frame. One was behind the axle, the other was just in front of the axle, which is where he put it. The 5ER is a little closer to the truck now but not by that much. He has been working for a local RV place for a long time and I trust his judgement. I feel better about the bolting, intead of the welding.



I agree with better in front than behind.



Jim

 

[exfuzz01]

5er hitch

Seeing that you live in Edmonds. . I would call Ballews Welding in Tacoma and make an appt. to go see them. . they have been in the hitch business for many years... I have never heard a complaint about their work... nor do I have one.



Ballew's Hitch, truck and RV

253-531-3636



PS... I am only a customer.

 

[JThiessen]

Tacoma...long crappy drive...

Thanks for the input EXFuzz - you cant have too many reputable places on your list. I've heard of them before.



TorK-Lift in Kent is also very good, and not too far from you. Very professional, and high quality work. Just be sure to make the appointment well in advance - they are busy.



I just got my axles flipped this morning by Glenns Welding in Lynnwood. So far, I'm impressed by the work they did, and the whole place seemed professional. The trailer sure sits higher! I'm heading across the North Cascade Highway tonight (going to Lake Perrigen State Park for the weekend... . SUN!!!).