72 c10 12v cummins swap

[72chummins]

Hi, I've gotta 72 2wd long bed chevy c10 with the stock sbc 350 and 350 turbo trans. I just recently bought a running 97 dodge ram 2500 2wd with the 47re trans that I just pulled the powertrain out of to swap into the c10. I just have some questions that hopefully someone on here could help me with or maybe even find help for me:
-I've heard putting the 1993 cummins motor mounts on are best for this swap to set the motor back further on the frame. Does this sound right?
-Would I be able to build up the stock axel on the c10 for the power of the cummins? Which axel would be the best to swap?(I'd like to keep the stock 5x5.5 lug patter as I don't wanna deal with two different lug patterns)
-is there a link for the wire/sensor deletes and things you can do to the PCM for a conversion setup?(I'd really like to clean up the mess of all the wires everywhere that I don't need)
- would I only need to get stiffer front springs? ( was thinking about some airbags between the springs)
-how would I be able to get the tach and speedo to convert to the stocks gauges, if possible?

Would be great if I could find someone who has done this swap before and talk it over with them

Thanks in advance!
-

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[PDM]

Search over here:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=371452
The thread I linked is one of many discussions of your swap. I'm not so sure the half-ton differential will survive any kind of power additions, but if you aren't too hard on it with the stock Cummins it has a much better chance of survival. I like the looks of the '72, would make a nice rig!

 

[DVolk]

You should just need front springs only , the engines mount the same just some fuel filters are harder to get at
you can get a 1 wire alternator built for it or search online for wireing diagrams

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

The half ton frame is also marginal. Dodge started with the 3/4 and 1 ton frame in 1989 and beefed it up more by 1993 when the First Gen ended.

 

[DVolk]

The old half tons could haul a heck of a lot more than what the new 3/4 tons can haul now im shure it will handle it , if need be add some frame stiffners or box the frame

 

[72chummins]

Thanks for the replies! Could anyone find a link for boxing frames? I'm pretty new to this type of thing and I'm just trying to get the idea of it. I'm sure it's easy but I just want to get the right answers before I do anything

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[72chummins]

Do you have to buy an actual one wire alternator or does the oem one convert easily?

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[rscurtis]

JMHO, you're chopping up what is considered a collectible truck. In addition to what Joe said, that power plant will roast that small rear axle. Find a later 2500HD with the floater rear axle.

 

[AClayton]

I performed this swap on my 88' CrewCab 2wd. The steering box and frame where it mounts is notoriously weak. After some exhaustive research work, I ended up ditching the entire front-end of the 2wd and added a dana 60 up front. Offroad Design makes a steering box brace and steering linkage kit to effectively steer your truck the right way and also handle the weight of the Cummins. It utilizes the 2wd steering box and permits a cross-over steering system that is very tough and reliable. 5 lug wheels and 1/2 ton brakes will NOT prove reliable for you in the future. A 12 bolt rear will not handle the torque of a stock 12V Cummins. With a dana 60 you get 1 ton brakes and you can find a 14 bolt full-floater for cheap due to the fact that the market is flooded with them......they came in vans, 3/4 and 1 ton trucks and even MH chassis'. My truck is a Crew Cab so I sourced a Divorced NP 205 Xfer case.......but you may have too short of a driveshaft in the rear if you go that route. And because your truck is a 1/2 ton, you will also need to change from a vacuum assisted brake booster to a 1 ton set-up that is fed off the power steering pump. I agree above that the 67-72 trucks had a much stiffer frame than the 73-87's but the steering box mounting on the frame is almost the same and just as weak. Adding bigger tires with a lift always made it worse so if you double the weight in the engine bay by transplanting a Cummins it will basically be doing the same thing. I went through all of this already......just trying to save you the time. BTW, I made my own motor mounts but there are many companies that sell kits to do this.......just google Cummins transplant into Chevy. You will get all the info you need.

 

[DVolk]

On boxing the frame im shure there videos on it but its all not that bad you take card board and make a template
then transfer to plate or flat bar . Some thing to renember they have built camaros with 6 bts and s-10s with 6 bts id do some more re search on the subject .

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

IMO, you will save yourself a lot of cost and grief if you just find a Cummins powered Ram.

 

[EWalshak]

I like the idea of this build but I also have the mindset that the 1/2 ton frame, suspension, brakes are just not up to the task. You can probably box the frame enough to handle the weight but the brakes, springs, A arms are a different story. If you drive it like a grandma you might be able to use the half ton rear for a while. Once you start laying on the fuel pedal I dont think it will be long until the rear goes south. Maybe you can find a two wheel drive 3/4 or 1 ton frame to put you cab and bed on? After putting a CTD in a Suburban and driving it I am glad I used a 3/4 ton Suburban to do this to instead of a 1/2 ton. I could really feel the extra weight when going around turns and such. After upgrading to 1 ton springs and stabilaizer bars front and rear, it finally feels stable when driving.

 

[rscurtis]

Joe had the best idea, just buy a Dodge. If you want to build something, do it with a Silver 4-53T, a "baby 10" Roadranger, Jake brakes, and you might as well add an air starter, as you'll need air for the transmission anyway.

 

[DVolk]

A 4-53 would be intersting , but anouther thought there is dodge cummins race trucks useing ford 9inchers in the rear end and lets not for get the early GMs had a couple optional rearend in the half ton some had the dana 60 as well as the eaton rear end
how ever i do agree on the brakes a person would want to upgrade the brakes to aftermarket disk or some thing

 

[AClayton]

The 1/2tons in that vintage came with 12 bolt rears exclusively. And 12 bolt rears had a 8 7/8's ring gear but suffered with smallish u joints. A Ford 9 inch is very strong and cannot be compared to any 1/2 ton rear, even though they came in 1/2 ton Fords. In my opinion, no c-clip rear will withstand a Cummins' brutish torque curve.

 

[Fordpickupman]

It's a lot of work.
I've got 6 months into my swap.
Just look at the reality of it, double your budget.

 

[VanOverbeke]

I started with a 72 K20 for the project and just kept working through things one at a time. I used the motor mounts from a first gen on the motor side and then fabed my own to mount to the frame. by doing that it allowed me to put the motor down a few more inches. I also have a four inch lift and had the room to go down farther where you may not have that option.

Since mine is the 3/4 ton I have a solid front axle and I run air bags up front for the extra weight. The rear (Eaton) is also holding up so far for me. I just pulled it apart last spring and checked everything and the wear seemed normal.

I ditched most of the stock wire harness for the motor as I put everything as mechanical as possible. I have a mechanical fuel shut off, so that wire mess disappeared. I have mechanical gauges as I ran the speedo to the NP205 (no tach). I also put the glow plugs onto a switch that I do manually. I have it set up to where I only need power to turn the starter and after that my battery could die and I would still be going down the road. That is also one reason I went with a manual transmission.

Good luck to ya. Bryce

 

[DVolk]

All depends on how much a person is on the accelerator . A few aftermarket peices in the rearend and its fixed