Here I am

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) 97... no start, no crank... nothin!

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) 5th wheel towing ?'s

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Clockspring Connectors

Status
Not open for further replies.
the starter hasn't sounded quite as fast lately as it used to be, until yesterday. when I started it to go to work, it spun like I remember it doing. got done with work at 4am, went out to start it, and it made about half of a real slow roll... now nothing but the clicks for the relay.



does this sound like the issue that Larry B's contacts fix, or needing a new starter? just put new batteries in it 2 months ago
 
gotta trouble shoot it and check for power at the starter when thek key is turned. if yes then its the starter if not you gotta start checking fuses (PDC) and (can't remember) relays
 
If you got power to the starter,not the main lug but the lug that goes hot when you turn the key to start, and it's a solid 12 volts then it must be the starter is bad, usually it is the contacts in the solenoid. try tapping on it with a hammer and then see if it starts that will confirm bad starter/solenoid without taking it out. This does not always work but if tapping it makes it start it is definetly the starter
 
Tapping with a hammer might wake up a worn commutator/brushes. Just tap it. Don't hit it with much force.

Do the Larry B dance and you won't look back.
 
I just experienced the same thing tonight. Got towed home (AAA Plus rocks) so now I have to do some trouble shooting. Batteries are new, cables/terminals all clean and in good shape. I already have the Larry B. contacts and diode, so I am guessing the starter is toast. I'll tear into it over the weekend, just to make sure.

I turn the key and can hear the the fuel solenoid pull up, then when I go the crank position I hear one big "click" and nothing. I think the start is dead. When I know more I'll post up. If its the starter? Do I go new (Larry B?), get a reman unit, or have mine rebuilt?

Thanks
Chris
 
How old are the contacts? If I can I stay with the original starter and alt. and rebuild them. There are some really bad "manufactured" parts out there.

Floyd
 
Check the damn Larry B diode! I had to be towed home after mine failed.



Ding Ding Ding..... we have a winner. The Larry B diode was broken, looked OK from the outside because of the shrink tubing, but it was broke once I cut open the shrink tubing.



Now a diode permits electrical flow in flow in one direction only? It is not a fuse or fusible link? I just want to make sure it broke and I don't have some other electrical gremlin with burnt it out or something.



I think the diode is a great idea because it protects the relay, but I am going to look into another style of diode that is possible more durable, even it it means I can't be mounted directly to the solenoid. I'm not sure if such a set up would be effective. I'll post up what i find.



I was really dreading the having to decide whether to go new, rebuilt or reman if the starter was the issue.



Thanks to all. I hope the OP gets his situation figured out.



Chris
 
Correct diode only allows flow in one direction you can cut it out and reconnect wires. it is only to save fuel solenoid if starter gets stuck on
 
FYI. If your stuck on a deserted road and it is needed as an emergency you can use a scredriver or any other piece of metal with an insulated handle and jump the two studs on the starter while being very careful to not touch anything else. This will by pass the diode it will also bypass the clutch interlock so dont run yourself over also the key must be in the on position. be exremely careful if you are unfamiliar with this emergency trick
 
Correct diode only allows flow in one direction you can cut it out and reconnect wires. it is only to save fuel solenoid if starter gets stuck on



That's what I thought the purpopse was.



FYI. If your stuck on a deserted road and it is needed as an emergency you can use a scredriver or any other piece of metal with an insulated handle and jump the two studs on the starter while being very careful to not touch anything else. This will by pass the diode it will also bypass the clutch interlock so dont run yourself over also the key must be in the on position. be exremely careful if you are unfamiliar with this emergency trick



I was gonna do this when it happened, but wasn't sure if this would do damage to the fuel relays? or the fuel solenoid? I've done it way too many times on numerous old chevy's.



Chris
 
I've never had a starter stick so I don't use the solenoid. Also you can always lift it by hand so it wont get you stuck. They are a little pricey but the diodes seem to act up. Diodes are a "personal" choice
 
I did alot of searching and found plenty of stud type diodes rated for 2amps/12volts all the way up to 70amps/200volts for $2-$10+/- , but nothing that looked like it would hold up any better. There are stud type diodes with a flexible pigtail that looked promising but they are rated much higher and become quite pricey (upwards of $50). I don't know what rating you would need so that was also a factor. So I think I'm gonna stick with the factory wiring for now.

I was kinda upset because I purposely installed this to prevent a roadside breakdown and just the opposite occurred, it created one.
 
I bought the Larry B diode too but broke it when installing it when I pushed up to get the wires out of the way. I also bought the $70 fuel gage that connect directly to the fuel filter and its snubber would not damp the oscillating needle and after a few weeks it stopped working.
 
hey folks, it turned out to be the stud that the power cable attaches to... it was broken off clean inside the solenoid.



I put a new starter on from NAPA, because the contacts are on backorder. By looking at the internals on the bad starter, it looks to be a very cheap reman job, kind surprised it lasted the 50k since I got the truck.



Next project is to remove the shutoff solenoid, to be replaced with a manual cable... that will be great, not having to open the hood and snake my arm down to do it by hand. The last few girls I've taken out seem to not like my redneck security system:rolleyes:
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top