Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) A/C Compressor change - How Hard??

[USMCBay]

I have been told by two places that my Compressor is gone... It worked when I bought it in CO. While driving back to Houston I lost my A/C - I believe gradually.



How can I know for sure the Compressor is shot?



Are their too many tools required?



I don't mind replacing it and then getting a shop to hook it back up - I just need to get it ready for the spring and summer months. All of which are hot in Houston!

 

[hsmith]

Have a qualified shop recover the R134a. You can replace the necessary parts, compressor, accumulator, & liquid line. If the condenser is contaminated, it will need to be flushed thoroughly. Be sure to add the required amount and type oil to compressor. Have the qualified shop evacuate and recharge system, if they will. You will be your own warranty on this job also.
BTW,if someone brings one to me they have already installed the parts on, I will not touch it.

 

[KHelfrich]

freon is cheap so are gauges hook up a set of gauges to your system and see if there is any freon if there is not any then you can just swap the compressor then hook the gauges up and use the vacuum pump on your truck to evacuate the system and then charge the system harbor freight has gauges for $50 and last i looked a 30lb cylinder of 134 was $60-70 at sams club

 

[USMCBay]

I know there is NO pressure at least on one side. The port was damaged and I've had it off completely looking for a replacement part. So there is no pressure on at least that side. I really don't see how the compressor is out - but hey it might be. I have a set of gauges and a shop made me a recharging hose that shuts off with a valve. I don't know anything about an accumulator or liquid lines... What all do you have to pull to change the compressor? Fan Shroud, Fan, Altenator...



How do I disconnect the lines from the Compressor? Aren't they special compression types?

 

[KHelfrich]

IIRC the back of the compressor has a bolt between where the two lines go in that is what is holding the lines on the compressor just pull the bolt and the lines will pull out they are sealed by and o ring and the bolt clamps a plate against the plate

 

[USMCBay]

That sounds do-able... So does the Low (or High) side still have a charge that needs to be vacuumed or can I assume it is clear for wrenching?

 

[B.G. Smith]

The system is a closed loop with the only check valves being the inlet and discharge valves in the compressor. The orifice tube in the liquid line from the condenser to the evaporator would be a restriction but would allow the charge to escape backwards through the line anyway. If one side of the system has zero pressure you can pretty much assume that the other side is empty too. I would think that the hoses are attached to the compressor with bolts but other connections are the spring slip joint type, you can get the release tools for these pretty reasonable now. bg

 

[ttbird]

Replaced mine when the compressor clutch bearing finally gave out last year. Bought replacement from Rock Auto. Four bolts hold it to engine. Both high and low side hoses bolt to compressor and use o-rings. When removing check orientation of clutch plug cause it makes putting the new one back in easier. If you put it in wrong the four bolts won't line up right. On mine I had to change the plug from the old one to the new one because the compressor came with a different plug than the truck harness had. No big deal, just check before installing cause it's alot easier to solder plug on bench than under truck. Evacuate system and then charge. You need to jumper plug on the dryer to get the compressor running to charge. Sensor is low charge switch which won't let the compressor run for lack of charge. Switch is located on passenger side of firewall where lines run through wall. Hope this helps.

 

[USMCBay]

Replaced mine when the compressor clutch bearing finally gave out last year. Bought replacement from Rock Auto. Four bolts hold it to engine. Both high and low side hoses bolt to compressor and use o-rings. When removing check orientation of clutch plug cause it makes putting the new one back in easier. If you put it in wrong the four bolts won't line up right. On mine I had to change the plug from the old one to the new one because the compressor came with a different plug than the truch harness had. No big deal, just check before installing cause it's alot easier to solder plug on bench than under truck. Evacuate system and then charge. You need to jumper plug on the dryer to get the compressor running to charge. Sensor is low charge switch which won't let the compressor run for lack of charge. Switch is located on passenger side of firewall where lines run through wall. Hope this helps.

You bet that helps... makes me feel a little more confident. Also I need to run some test to make sure I think... I still need to find a port for the charge side - mine was damaged. I will pick one up at the Auto Salvage.

If I can do this one step at a time I think I can save some money and learn something new to boot.



Thanks