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Anatomy of a Frantz toilet paper bypass oil filter

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In my mind, the issue of whether to feed the oil stream to the bypass filter from before, or after it passes thru the stock full flow filter is pretty much a non issue - you will get pretty much the SAME added and improved overall filtering from the bypass either way. The only potential issue - and a pretty small one, is any difference in oil pressure to the engine or the bypass filter from one pickoff point vs another - and that would seem pretty trivial as well, with the restriction to the bypass.



Question for you Gary, when you put the element(tp) in the can, do you unwrap enough so that it will slide in without wrinkling up at all? I just changed mine tonight and I took off about 60 wraps and when I pushed it down into the can, the sides kind of wrinkled up so that when I finally got it into the can, the edges were a little bit higher than the center. I hope that makes sense. I should have taken a picture.



I insert my TP replacement cartridges just about as tightly as I can get them in the canister - there will be a small concave surface at the base of the TP roll resulting from force of insertion and TP "creepage", with some minor "feathering" of several plies on the outer edge of the roll that is pushed down when the outer seal ring is installed and fully seated - I have a complete spare filter assembly, and usually preinstall a serviced canister on the spare base - lots easier than doing it on the truck, and I usually keep the serviced filter on that spare until it's ready to put on the truck.



I find it helps to apply a bit of a twising motion to the TP cartridge as it is inserted into the canister, in the direction that keeps the TP wraps most tightly wound on the roll - that minimizes any tendency to wrinkle the outer sheets.



Probably the hardest - and most important - single operation in servicing a canister with a new TP cartridge, is getting the replacement as TIGHTLY installed as possible, to minimize any tendency for the cartridge to "channel" during use due to looseness of the cartridge. Not a big deal overall, or unusually difficult, just a point where extra care will deliver significant benefit towards maximum filtration.



Here's a pic of one of my typical replacements - as you can see. I install mine tightly enough that sometimes the inner core will distort from the pressure - that will usually smooth out once the TP plys settle and trapped air escapes - not an issue unless you use O-rings on the inner core for better sealing like I do.



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Last edited by a moderator:
In my mind, the issue of whether to feed the oil stream to the bypass filter from before, or after it passes thru the stock full flow filter is pretty much a non issue - you will get pretty much the SAME added and improved overall filtering from the bypass either way. The only potential issue - and a pretty small one, is any difference in oil pressure to the engine or the bypass filter from one pickoff point vs another - and that would seem pretty trivial as well, with the restriction to the bypass.
You are correct, Gary. IT makes no significant difference as to which port you take the pressure source from. The older engines used the top of the filter mount for the turbo feed line. The newer engine use the side of the filter mount, so there are now two ports on the top that can be used for a pressure source.



Wayne

amsoilman
 
OK, one last question:



The Amsoil Filters, do they have an internal bypass?? If the media plugs, will they quit passing oil through the media (and hence have no flow through the return)?? Or is there an internal bypass, similar to a regular oil filter, that will still allow oil to pass once the filter media plugs??



Trying to figure this out... it would make it real easy to figure out when filters need changed (the filter would be cold)...



Comments?



Thanks,

steved
 
Thanks Gary, that's pretty much how I've been doing it. I was concerned with channeling but I was also concerned that by wrinkling the paper a little it might cause problems. So far I've been through several changes and not had any problems but just wanted to get some more feedback on this.



Jeff
 
amsoilman said:
In my mind, the issue of whether to feed the oil stream to the bypass filter from before, or after it passes thru the stock full flow filter is pretty much a non issue - you will get pretty much the SAME added and improved overall filtering from the bypass either way. The only potential issue - and a pretty small one, is any difference in oil pressure to the engine or the bypass filter from one pickoff point vs another - and that would seem pretty trivial as well, with the restriction to the bypass.
You are correct, Gary. IT makes no significant difference as to which port you take the pressure source from. The older engines used the top of the filter mount for the turbo feed line. The newer engine use the side of the filter mount, so there are now two ports on the top that can be used for a pressure source.



Wayne

amsoilman



If I'm using a filter designed for polishing oil, why would I want to subject it to dirt the main filter can handle and potentially plug it of quicker?????? Your comments don't really make sense, at least this is my take on using a "dirty" oil source.



steved
 
steved said:
OK, one last question:



The Amsoil Filters, do they have an internal bypass?? If the media plugs, will they quit passing oil through the media (and hence have no flow through the return)?? Or is there an internal bypass, similar to a regular oil filter, that will still allow oil to pass once the filter media plugs??



Trying to figure this out... it would make it real easy to figure out when filters need changed (the filter would be cold)...



Comments?



Thanks,

steved

The AMsoil By-Pass filters DO NOT have a internal by-pass valve, as the filter is connected as a by-pass! If the by-pass filter plugs, the filter just has no flow through it! For your information, I have seen so many of these in use, but I have never seen one completly pluged.





Wayne

amsoilman
 
steved said:
If I'm using a filter designed for polishing oil, why would I want to subject it to dirt the main filter can handle and potentially plug it of quicker?????? Your comments don't really make sense, at least this is my take on using a "dirty" oil source.



steved



I agree with you steved. However, I don't believe that the difference in cleanliness from upstream to downstream of the full flow filter is really all that much. Yes there is a difference and it will probably knock a little bit of life off of the bypass filters but I'm not sure that it would be that noticeable. I could be way off though.



I think that all of the ports on that filter head are filtered oil. I wouldn't think that they would send 'dirty' oil to the turbo and I am betting that they all tap into the same oil source.



Jeff
 
Turbo1Ton said:
I agree with you steved. However, I don't believe that the difference in cleanliness from upstream to downstream of the full flow filter is really all that much. Yes there is a difference and it will probably knock a little bit of life off of the bypass filters but I'm not sure that it would be that noticeable.

Jeff



EXACTLY!



I doubt many here really think the oil stream going into the stock oil filter is rank and filthy as compared to what goes out the "clean" side - if there WAS so great a difference in contamination levels, we'd certainly need a FAR larger filtering surface than what stock filters provide!



All the bypass is doing, is diverting a SMALL percentage of flow from the oil stream, and shunting it thru a far finer filter media than what the full flow filter provides.



That diverted oil can as easily - and effectively - originate from a totally independent pumping system that picks oil directly from the pan, or elsewhere in the oil stream - it's just simpler - and JUST as effective to do it from the flow that already exists in the stock lube system - regardless of where that supply stream comes from.



As to differences in contamination levels in/out of the stock filter, if they were as relatively dirty and polluted as suggested, there are far worse engine issues needing attention than a bypass filter is likely to correct! ;)



I suspect that if we could take all the various contaminents and wear particles from a typical Cummins trapped in a filter in a typical 5000 mile run, the resulting pile would be surprisingly small - after all, oil analysis reports give numbers down in parts per *million*... :D
 
OK, probably the wrong thing to ask, but has anyone found an alternative filter to the Amsoil units??? I'm not talking Frantz to Amsoil, but another manufacturer of a filter that will fit the Amsoil mount... I don't really care if there isn't another as I plan on running the Amsoil filter... just keeping my options open... hoping that if I needed a filter in a pinch I could get one locally.



steved
 
I've got all the pieces for my Frantz install including the amsoil swivel and I'm at about $130 right now. My brother is making me a custom bracket for the filter and then I'll be ready to install.



Went shopping of TP last night. The Scott 1000 in the 4 or larger packs has a center of 1. 65 inches or so. I checked out the Scott 1000 in single rolls wrapped in the paper instead of the plastic and it has the 1. 5 inch center roll. This fits perfect on my center column on the frantz. Found it at Wal-Mart... ...
 
DaveK98 said:
I've got all the pieces for my Frantz install including the amsoil swivel and I'm at about $130 right now. My brother is making me a custom bracket for the filter and then I'll be ready to install.



I'll have about $145 in mine with the hydraulic lines, oil cooler, hose fittings, oil cap swivel, filter head, and two filters... whole lot better than the amsoil cost... I was quoted $210 over the phone for a kit without filters. :eek:



IMHO, definately cheaper and easier to piece one together... you can custom mount it where YOU want it, not where the manufacturer thinks it fits.



steved
 
Amsoil "Preferred Customer" price including the $10. 00 Preferred Customer fee for 6 Months, for a BMK-11 as well as freight and BE-100 Filter element is $156. 50!



wayne

amsoilman
 
amsoilman said:
Amsoil "Preferred Customer" price including the $10. 00 Preferred Customer fee for 6 Months, for a BMK-11 as well as freight and BE-100 Filter element is $156. 50!



wayne

amsoilman



Just telling you what they told me over the phone... why I didn't buy direct from Amsoil. So instead of flailing around and telling me something that means nothing now, as them why I was quoted that price of $210!!



steved
 
Just ordered my filter from frantz this week... with the tdr discount, amsoil fitting, 8 filter elements and shipping to canada it cost 200 Oo.

Not cheap but I don't think toilet paper will be hard to find when I move down to

Central America :-laf



Does Amsoil exist down there??? How much do replacement filters cost on the amsoil system and how often do you replace... . would be good if some other more widespread brand of filter worked instead??



Thanks for such a great thread!! Long live my 12v!! :D
 
Well got it installed tonight... it works pretty good...



Got everything plumbed in... just like I said: supply, "tee" fitting (for a future pressure sensor/guage), filter, cooler, return... the oil flows out pretty slow... slower than you would expect. I mounted the filter to a bed crossmember and not a bed frame support... the filter is about even with the front spring hangar.



One thing is the cooler does make a difference... must flow slow enough that it really transfers heat as the oil going out of the engine is HOT and returning lukewarm... pretty cool! I only drove it for about 15 minutes, but it seemed pretty good. And it isn't even a big cooler...



It just dribbles out, just got to remember it is 6 quarts per 5 minutes...



After I go through these two BE-90s, I'm going to upgrade to the EaBP-110s...



steved
 
Well, looks like I need to drill the orifice out... I'm getting 2 ounces per minute at the return... 10 ounces every 5 minutes... that's just a little short of 5 quarts!



I read somewhere on TDR that the early Amsoil heads used a 0. 032" opening while the later ones used a 0. 046" opening... mine is the 0. 032" because I have a 0. 030" drill and it barely fits... going to see if I can get a drill that's close... might need to "drill by hand" since I don't think most drills can chuck a drill that small...



steved
 
steved said:
Well, looks like I need to drill the orifice out... I'm getting 2 ounces per minute at the return... 10 ounces every 5 minutes... that's just a little short of 5 quarts!



steved



Sure seems to be pretty slow flow - was that with the orifice the setup came with? I guess the "5 quarts in 5 minutes" is what you were told it should be doing?



Nothing wrong with the flow being a LITTLE less than the quart per minute or so rate - but yours seems excessively slow. I'm probably the other extreme - the 1/8 inch restriction in mine is probably too large for best overall filtration - never have measured the flow, will give it a try tomorrow if I don't forget...
 
Gary - K7GLD said:
Sure seems to be pretty slow flow - was that with the orifice the setup came with? I guess the "5 quarts in 5 minutes" is what you were told it should be doing?



Nothing wrong with the flow being a LITTLE less than the quart per minute or so rate - but yours seems excessively slow. I'm probably the other extreme - the 1/8 inch restriction in mine is probably too large for best overall filtration - never have measured the flow, will give it a try tomorrow if I don't forget...



Yeah, I figure it might be 4 ounces a minute when it's hot... or two gallons an hour. I believe the Amsoil flow rate is either supposed to be 5 or 6 quarts every 5 minutes... that is an amsoil flow rate.



If you're an 1/8th, I might try to go a 16th (or the smallest drill I can find locally)... let me know what your flow rate...



steved
 
steved said:
Yeah, I figure it might be 4 ounces a minute when it's hot... or two gallons an hour. I believe the Amsoil flow rate is either supposed to be 5 or 6 quarts every 5 minutes... that is an amsoil flow rate.



If you're an 1/8th, I might try to go a 16th (or the smallest drill I can find locally)... let me know what your flow rate...



steved

Amsoil's claim is 6 Qts/5 minutes@40 PSI



Wayne
 
steved said:
Yeah, I figure it might be 4 ounces a minute when it's hot... or two gallons an hour. I believe the Amsoil flow rate is either supposed to be 5 or 6 quarts every 5 minutes... that is an amsoil flow rate.



If you're an 1/8th, I might try to go a 16th (or the smallest drill I can find locally)... let me know what your flow rate...



steved



OK, hot engine, at an idle - 1/8 inch orifice = almost EXACTLY 1 quart per minute.



Dunno how much difference the filter media will make with your setup vs my Frantz - but there ya go! :D
 
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