In my mind, the issue of whether to feed the oil stream to the bypass filter from before, or after it passes thru the stock full flow filter is pretty much a non issue - you will get pretty much the SAME added and improved overall filtering from the bypass either way. The only potential issue - and a pretty small one, is any difference in oil pressure to the engine or the bypass filter from one pickoff point vs another - and that would seem pretty trivial as well, with the restriction to the bypass.
I insert my TP replacement cartridges just about as tightly as I can get them in the canister - there will be a small concave surface at the base of the TP roll resulting from force of insertion and TP "creepage", with some minor "feathering" of several plies on the outer edge of the roll that is pushed down when the outer seal ring is installed and fully seated - I have a complete spare filter assembly, and usually preinstall a serviced canister on the spare base - lots easier than doing it on the truck, and I usually keep the serviced filter on that spare until it's ready to put on the truck.
I find it helps to apply a bit of a twising motion to the TP cartridge as it is inserted into the canister, in the direction that keeps the TP wraps most tightly wound on the roll - that minimizes any tendency to wrinkle the outer sheets.
Probably the hardest - and most important - single operation in servicing a canister with a new TP cartridge, is getting the replacement as TIGHTLY installed as possible, to minimize any tendency for the cartridge to "channel" during use due to looseness of the cartridge. Not a big deal overall, or unusually difficult, just a point where extra care will deliver significant benefit towards maximum filtration.
Here's a pic of one of my typical replacements - as you can see. I install mine tightly enough that sometimes the inner core will distort from the pressure - that will usually smooth out once the TP plys settle and trapped air escapes - not an issue unless you use O-rings on the inner core for better sealing like I do.
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Question for you Gary, when you put the element(tp) in the can, do you unwrap enough so that it will slide in without wrinkling up at all? I just changed mine tonight and I took off about 60 wraps and when I pushed it down into the can, the sides kind of wrinkled up so that when I finally got it into the can, the edges were a little bit higher than the center. I hope that makes sense. I should have taken a picture.
I insert my TP replacement cartridges just about as tightly as I can get them in the canister - there will be a small concave surface at the base of the TP roll resulting from force of insertion and TP "creepage", with some minor "feathering" of several plies on the outer edge of the roll that is pushed down when the outer seal ring is installed and fully seated - I have a complete spare filter assembly, and usually preinstall a serviced canister on the spare base - lots easier than doing it on the truck, and I usually keep the serviced filter on that spare until it's ready to put on the truck.
I find it helps to apply a bit of a twising motion to the TP cartridge as it is inserted into the canister, in the direction that keeps the TP wraps most tightly wound on the roll - that minimizes any tendency to wrinkle the outer sheets.
Probably the hardest - and most important - single operation in servicing a canister with a new TP cartridge, is getting the replacement as TIGHTLY installed as possible, to minimize any tendency for the cartridge to "channel" during use due to looseness of the cartridge. Not a big deal overall, or unusually difficult, just a point where extra care will deliver significant benefit towards maximum filtration.
Here's a pic of one of my typical replacements - as you can see. I install mine tightly enough that sometimes the inner core will distort from the pressure - that will usually smooth out once the TP plys settle and trapped air escapes - not an issue unless you use O-rings on the inner core for better sealing like I do.
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