Anatomy of a Frantz toilet paper bypass oil filter

[PRout]

Good point. Kinda nice to know that with a frantz youre not only cleaning your oil, but keeping the additive package up as well.

 

[CFAR]

With due respect for you as well as any other person using a toilet paper by-pass system, anytime you add makeup oil to your system, you are putting back additives into the oil within your engine, and the oil analysis reports are going to be skewed to some degree. "One gallon in 15,000 miles" is quite a bit of oil to be adding! I have people running 20,000 miles with regular filtration (NO BY-PASS) that are getting good results back from oil analysis.





Respectfully,



Wayne

amsoilman

Is that dino or synthetic?

 

[walexa07]

With due respect for you as well as any other person using a toilet paper by-pass system, anytime you add makeup oil to your system, you are putting back additives into the oil within your engine, and the oil analysis reports are going to be skewed to some degree. "One gallon in 15,000 miles" is quite a bit of oil to be adding! I have people running 20,000 miles with regular filtration (NO BY-PASS) that are getting good results back from oil analysis.





Respectfully,



Wayne

amsoilman

Wayne, that 20,000 miles that you refer to should have makeup oil as well..... isn't amsoil's warranty policy only good if the full-flow filter is changed on some schedule, and that requires makeup oil?

 

[steved]

I thought the (Amsoil) endurance filters were a 20k change and the bypass filters were a 60k change (or something like that)... using their oil?? I'd have to look it up again...



steved

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

I thought the (Amsoil) endurance filters were a 20k change and the bypass filters were a 60k change (or something like that)... using their oil?? I'd have to look it up again...



steved

All my past reading of Amsoil's push for extended drains with their oil has included regular filter changes, and the inevitable makeup oil - which obviously also slews oil analysis readings - not that all customers DO change the oil filter at recommended intervals, or analyze their oil, for that matter.

 

[amsoilman]

Is that dino or synthetic?

This is the Amsoil (AME) Synthetic 15W-40,



Wayne

amsoilman

 

[amsoilman]

I thought the (Amsoil) endurance filters were a 20k change and the bypass filters were a 60k change (or something like that)... using their oil?? I'd have to look it up again...



steved

This is the recommendation of AMSoil Inc. regarding "Personal Light Truck Vehicles with Diesel Fueled Engines"

(HDD) 5W-30 Heavy Duty Diesel,(AME) 15W-40 Heavy Duty Diesel & Marine, (ACD) 10W-30/30 Heavy Duty Diesel oils... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... Using the "Donaldson" Endurance ELF-7349 oil filter.



NORMAL Service: 25,000 miles/one year, whichever occurs first, when used in conjunction with AMSOIL synthetics listed above.



SEVERE Service: 15,000 miles/one year whichever occurs first when using the above AMSOIL synthetic oils.



You can extend BEYOND this if using oil analysis to determine oil/Engine condition, but require the filters to be changed EVERY year.



My truck has now gone some 50,000 plus miles on the AME 15W-40 Heavy Duty Diesel & Marine, using the AMsoil By-pass, and "OIL ANALYSIS". I have changed the filters 2 times.





Hope this helps to clear this issue up.





Best regards,



Wayne

amsoilman

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

Just for clarification Wayne, do those Amsoil recommended oil/filter change intervals apply to ALL year diesels - or only the 3rd generation stuff?

 

[amsoilman]

Just for clarification Wayne, do those Amsoil recommended oil/filter change intervals apply to ALL year diesels - or only the 3rd generation stuff?

Gary,

As far as I know, the recommendation is for ALL "Personal light truck" Diesels.



They recommend "up to 2 X OEM recommendation in Commercial,Fleet, Marine RV's/Motor homes with Diesel Engines (Engines W/O EGR) Or with oil analysis (With EGR)



Wayne

amsoilman

 

[Nate]

Gary,



Did you sleeve the center post of your filter?



The one I bought came in today. Well it was NOS (new old stock), but I didn't think it was going to be as old as it is. The center post is the smaller diameter, the TP I bought for it has too large of a cardboard tube.



Got the Marine one for $118 shipped though, so not too bad.

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

Gary,



Did you sleeve the center post of your filter?

Yes, I use - and prefer to use - neoprene O-rings at the Frantz center post for reliable seal - you can actually see the imprint of the rings embossed into the inner core when TP cartridges get changed. It's back in the very beginning of this thread - pic and all.

 

[Nate]

Yeah I saw that, but I was wondering if that steel pipe for the center post was something you added. On my filter, it's a flat black tube, as is the rest of the base.



I noticed that although the tube doesn't fit tight on the center post... actually the smaller (old) one doesn't either, but there is a "cup" as the base that allows for a larger center cardboard. So I guess it's ok to use the new style tp without doing anything.



I wasn't paying attention to that last night. . long day at work and a couple beers will do that.

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

Yeah - looks like a lot of tube-to-core clearance on that one - but no problem if you choose to go the O-ring route to maximize core sealing as I have with mine. Looks like yours also already has the restriction built into the base like one of mine does - my other 2 had to have an external restriction added to control oil flow to the proper volume.



Good luck with yours.

 

[PRout]

I have several units that I got from various places, and one of them has the black inner tube. Think it came with the "Marine" version with the cad plated canister. Have long since mixed up the canisters. .

You can also buy your TP elements from Frantz. They fit the older 1-1/2" tube better. I tried using o-rings with standard paper like scotts, etc. and had a hard time finding orings that were big enough to seal well, but still thin enough to not roll down to the bottom of the tube when you slide the paper roll down on it. Ended up using #17 or #18 orings from Home Depot. Think it was the 17's that worked, 18's were a little big.

Maybe Gary can add a suggestion on what o-rings work best for him.

Also usually add some more winds of paper to the roll to make it fit tighter in the canister. Get them started in the canister by hand, and final seat them in with a coffee can. Found that you can seat them too deep in the canister and then they dont seal quite as well around the ring that controls inner tube leakage.

Thats why I used 2 filters in series, because I havent always put them back together just right, and every once in a while there will be a filter change where there will be a small leak bypassing the inner tube seal, or if its not packed tight enough there might be some channeling. Having 2 in series means what debris the first one misses, the second should catch.

 

[Nate]

I was thinking of just wrapping some duct tape around the post.



Yeah mine is a Marine. It was only a few $$s more than the standard one.

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

I was thinking of just wrapping some duct tape around the post.



Yeah mine is a Marine. It was only a few $$s more than the standard one.

Hopefully, the "duct tape" was just a joke.



I'd be afraid the oil and adhesive in the tape might not play well together - if you want a shim other than 0-rings, a few tight turns around the center post with some #10, 12 or 14 single strand wire might work.



As to the specific size 0-ring, dunno, I just casually select them at the hardware store, usually get several of each type, and use what fits best at filter change.



It helps to give a twisting motion to the TP cartridge/canister as you replace it on the base to prevent the inner core from sliding the 0-ring down the post - I've even thought about shimming the entire length of the post with o-rings too...

 

[Nate]

About got it installed yesterday. I painted it last night, so I need to install it today.



I mounted it kind of like you did Gary, only I put it lower and right between the battery and the antifreeze catch can.



I got a piece of 5/16" brake line and welded it to the inside of the bracket after I modified it a bit.

I thought about mounting it lower, on the inner fender, but it would have been a bit harder to change the TP I think.





To use the biger tubed TP, I made some sleeves. I found some exhaust pipe in the garage, no idea where it came from, but it fit the ID of the Frantz perfect and the OD of the TP perfect. I cut 2 pieces, about 2. 5" each. Slide 1 down, slide an o ring down, slide the other sleeve on and another o ring. O rings don't go anywhere that way.



I couldn't get the ends cut on the tube perfectly square, so I'm going to send them to my brother and have him through it on the lathe to clean it up. (Works for Smith and Wesson as a product engineer)

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

Sounds good Nate - great idea on the exhaust pipe "retainer" to hold the 0-ring in place - I recently started doing something similar, but didn't want to comment on it until I had a chance to see how effective it is. I'll know more today, after I change the TP cartridge in mine before we leave tuesday on our RV trip.

 

[PRout]

To use the bigger tubed TP, I made some sleeves. I found some exhaust pipe in the garage, no idea where it came from, but it fit the ID of the Frantz perfect and the OD of the TP perfect. I cut 2 pieces, about 2. 5" each. Slide 1 down, slide an o ring down, slide the other sleeve on and another o ring. O rings don't go anywhere that way.

Excellent!

 

[Nate]

Got it all buttoned up today. I ended up leaving the stock TP in for this time. It's probably 20 years old, but it there was nothing wrong with it, so no reason to pull it out.



I didn't realize that it would flow that much oil. I pulled the oil fill cap off and it's a fairly steady stream that comes out. I was expecting more of a trickle.



I guess compared to the full flow filter though it isn't much flow.



I'm curious if it will clean up the oil. The truck dirtys the oil by the time I pour clean oil in it! Once I had poured a gallon in and I realize the drain plug was still leaking, so I had to drain it back out. What came out was just as black as the oil with 5k on it.