Anatomy of a Frantz toilet paper bypass oil filter

[Gary - K7GLD]

My memory's getting poor - but I think in the Frantz flow test I did a month or so back, mine with what looks like the same flow orifice as yours put out 1 quart per minute...

 

[Nate]

Well I put about 250 miles on it since the weekend. I just checked the oil and it's pretty clean on the dipstick. It's a dark golden brown... where before it was black as coal.

 

[Nate]

Well I'm getting ready to change the TP out and I was wondering if there is a reason for teh metal ring that pushes against the side of can and on the TP?



Reason I ask is because the roll swelled right up against the screen, except the first couple layers that the ring is against. So I was wondering if it serves a purpose?





Also for the guys using the old sytle housing with the 1. 5" center post, my brother is going to make me a sleeve to adapt to the 1. 625" rolls (new rolls). (He does CNC machining work for Smith and Wesson) If anyone in interested in one, let me know as he said he could make a couple for other people, he was thinking around $10, but he will need to figure out the materials cost and time involved before he commits on a price.



Nate

 

[DaveK98]

Nate, before you go through the trouble of changing out your tube you can get the scott tp in the single roll wrapped in paper that will fit.



The local Walmart has them by me... .

 

[Nate]

I'll have to check that out. I bought a 12pk of Scott 1000 figuring I could use it as normal TP... hahaha. I may as well use wax paper that has some sand glued to it.

 

[steved]

Just as a follow up to my Amsoil Bypass install... so far so good...



Couple things I noticed:



First, the BE-series filters (the discontinued ones) kept the oil visibly cleaner... even though they were "rated" at 3 micron. They actually kept the oil "clear", even though it would get dark.



While the EaBPs don't seem to keep the oil as visibly clean, I currently have 9500 miles on this oil change... even though the oil is black, it isn't "sludge-like". I can still take it between fingers and it feels just like new oil (I know, not very scientific)... and that's comparing old to new (one in each hand)...



I have noticed a slight drop in oil pressure at an idle with this many miles... it normally idles around 25-30psi... now it idles around 20-25psi... but that might also be my guage/sending unit (it does act flakey sometimes... ).



Don't bother with an oil cooler on the line, while it does drop the temp of the oil returning to the engine, there isn't enough volume to do any good probably... I might remove the cooler and put it to use elsewhere (on one of my cars)...



I also decided to run 10k oil and filter changes... cost will be the same overall... no savings... but no increase in costs either...



steved

 

[Nate]

Just an FYI, my brother is working on a sleeve for my filter. He sorta laughed at my attempt with the exahust pipe and came up with a better design.



He's fairly busy at work, but he mentioned that he could make a few more if it works out for TDR members. Would basically be the cost of materials and a bit to cover his time and shipping. Was thinking around $10... but he's not sure on that price just yet.



I'll wait until he gets mine (the proto type) done next week and I'll post up more info.



I know a few people mentioned the Scott TP in the single roll fits, but I haven't been able to find any. Walmart doesn't carry it, either does the BX.

 

[PRout]

Nate, I would definitely be interested in a couple of 2-1/2" sleeves as you used to keep the o-rings from moving down the center tube. I tried your idea, but had a hard time getting the sleeves cut square enough. Would be great to have decent sleeves made.

Will see how your prototype works out for you - Thanks

 

[steved]

Nate, I would definitely be interested in a couple of 2-1/2" sleeves as you used to keep the o-rings from moving down the center tube. I tried your idea, but had a hard time getting the sleeves cut square enough. Would be great to have decent sleeves made.



Will see how your prototype works out for you - Thanks

I'm sure there would be several people interested in this as well... with the Frantz being as popular as it is...



I was wondering about Gary's setup... could you not take a piece of 1. 5" PVC pipe, and put grooves in it to hold the orings in place? Seems like this wouldn't take very long to do... and one setup in a lathe could net several adapters... you would need an oring with a "thicker" ring, but that should not be hard to find.



Or am I way behind on the development? :-laf



steved

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

One of the guys further up - at least I think it was this thread - used a short sleeve that then provided a shallow "ledge" that then provided a stop and "seat" to hold the O-ring in place - easy to do and works quite well. I'm using something similar, and will post a pic when I next change the TP cartridge.



Personally, I prefer the O-ring to trying for a tight fit at the center post with a full length tube or adapter. The O-rings in my setup leave a point of contact sealing imprint on the inner core when the cartridge is remove, which tells me it is getting a very positive and effective seal at that point. My oil analysis seem to agree...

 

[Nate]

Yes that was me Gary.



Just I wasnted able to get the exhaust pipe cut square enough, so I asked my brother if he could (he's a machinist)... well instead he asked me for measurements and he'd make something.





The prototype is a solid piece, no provisions for O rings, but it wouldn't be hard to make a 2 piece design.



PVC pipe would work, but the sleeve is only 1/16" thick. My brother felt that steel was a better choice.

 

[steved]

Yes that was me Gary.



Just I wasnted able to get the exhaust pipe cut square enough, so I asked my brother if he could (he's a machinist)... well instead he asked me for measurements and he'd make something.





The prototype is a solid piece, no provisions for O rings, but it wouldn't be hard to make a 2 piece design.



PVC pipe would work, but the sleeve is only 1/16" thick. My brother felt that steel was a better choice.

I guess I just don't have a "feel" on how thick the adapter is... I was thinking it was almost 1/8"?... I guess not since you need 1. 5" and you have 1. 625"... 1/8"... yeah, guess that would be pretty hard to machine a grove into something 1/16"! :-laf



Other than cost, I'd probably go with stainless, but since it is drowned in oil, it's not like regular steel would ever rust... and over the long haul, PVC might get brittle (that thin) after being exposed to that heat and the oil... it is only so "inert"...



steved

 

[R C Cola]

Oil Return

Jim... I used the fill tube for my return about 2 or 3 inches down from the top w/self tapping fitting. I really like it because I can remove the fill cap and look into the tube and see the oil flow coming out of the filter. Reassuring for a worry wart like me. I do believe it would drain a little better from the canister if I had put it close to the bottom of the fill tube. I am able to change elements without spilling any on the fender well so haven't changed it. ( It started to plug up and dribble at about 10,000 miles and still analysized good) I do now try to change elements at about 2000 miles or less and can see the improvement on the dipstick. R C

 

[DaveK98]

Guys I'm about to install my frantz and showed it to a few of my engineer friends. Both of them laughed and told me I'm going to have some tp come off and go into vital oil passages. My frantz has the screen on the the bottom (stock stuff about the size of a window screen).



I'm not really worried but still there in the back of my mind... .

 

[steved]

Guys I'm about to install my frantz and showed it to a few of my engineer friends. Both of them laughed and told me I'm going to have some tp come off and go into vital oil passages. My frantz has the screen on the the bottom (stock stuff about the size of a window screen).



I'm not really worried but still there in the back of my mind... .

How many in this thread alone were installed and are in use... if it was a problem, do you think you would hear about it? If it was an issue, do you think they would sell them? I'm not badgering, just ask yourself these questions...



And think of the "passages". Follow my logic... in a worst case scenario, the TP disentigrates... it is pumped into the oil fill cap, the oil pan, or turbo drain depending on your return setup (either way, it ends up in the oil pan). And then it gets sucked into the oil screen, into the pump, and finally into the filter... not to mention that if the filter is like my Amsoil, the media would need to pass a very small 1/16" orifice to escape the filter housing... hopefully if it was bad enough to plug the oil filter, you would see it in your oil pressure...



That's just my thoughts on their comments...



steved

 

[walexa07]

Guys I'm about to install my frantz and showed it to a few of my engineer friends. Both of them laughed and told me I'm going to have some tp come off and go into vital oil passages. My frantz has the screen on the the bottom (stock stuff about the size of a window screen).



I'm not really worried but still there in the back of my mind... .

Don't sweat it... ..... they're just giving you a hard time. Ask them what makes toilet paper any different than the paper in their stock oil filter. Besides, if small pieces did come off, it would be taken out by the full flow oil filter before it had a chance to make it to any small passages.



Waylan

 

[amsoilman]

Don't sweat it... ..... they're just giving you a hard time. Ask them what makes toilet paper any different than the paper in their stock oil filter. Besides, if small pieces did come off, it would be taken out by the full flow oil filter before it had a chance to make it to any small passages.



Waylan

Well there is a difference between the toilet paper and the paper used in Oil filters! Toilet tissue is designed to dissolve when it gets in water, paper (CELLULOSE) used in Oil filters is treated so it will not dissolve when it gets in water.



Wayne

amsoilman

 

[CFAR]

Well there is a difference between the toilet paper and the paper used in Oil filters! Toilet tissue is designed to dissolve when it gets in water, paper (CELLULOSE) used in Oil filters is treated so it will not dissolve when it gets in water.

And this is one of the main reasons I don't run water in my oil!

 

[steved]

And this is one of the main reasons I don't run water in my oil!

In Wayne's defense, I think what he was getting at, besides the differences, is the fact there are traces of water in your oil system.



Whether you put them there or not... it's there...



However, I feel that most likely the paper fiber absorbs the water... the adhesive used to bond the fibers is water soluble, but having been exposed to oil, the adhesive becomes "water repellent"... that is just my thoughts... nothing scientific.



I mean, what is paper? Nothing more than bleached wood pulp or cellulose. Granted the paper in a oil filter might be treated, but I would suspect the adhesives bonding the oil filter fibers together is most likely a little better than that in your TP... since TP is designed to desintegrate in water...



Does this mean TP will desintegrate in oil with traces of water... obviously it doesn't seem to...



steved

 

[DaveK98]

Where is the correct place to put my 1/16 restrictor? Engine take off or Filter inlet?