Anatomy of a Frantz toilet paper bypass oil filter

[Nate]

I like the Frantz because it's cheap, simple, and it works.



What is the cost of the Amsoil filter? Let's say it's $20.





Now 1 roll of TP is ~$0. 50. At every 2500 miles.



That would be 40 rolls of TP = 1 Amsoil filter.



Figure 1 quart of oil as well at ~$2 (that's what it takes on my truck) So 1 filter change costs $2. 50.









I keep an extra gallon of oil in my truck for top offs if the oil is getting low. Also keep a roll of TP in there... for a filter, but also for those "emergencies" when your on the road, no where near a gas station or rest stop

 

[steved]

How about putting the TP filter in-line AFTER your amsoil filter? The Amsoil filter should catch the larger particles, leaving the TP to catch the smaller ones. I would think the TP might last 5,000 miles (or more) that way?



Just a thought, since you already have the Amsoil setup.



Bob

I have thought about this too... but then as you indicate, how often do you change it?



Seems like a waste to get rid of the Amsoil filter, but...



steved

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

NATE SEZ:

It all depends on your attitude toward maintenance. Myself, I enjoy doing it, so it's really not an issue.

I've come to realize that is pretty much the bottom line on this subject, and lots of others! My truck is lots more to me than mere transportation and an RV tow vehicle - it's my hotrod, custom, AND work vehicle...



It's my HOBBY! Oo.



Therefore, stuff other owners probably feel are overkill, unnecessary and boring, are the stuff that keeps ME actively interested in my truck, as well as this board.



Let's face it, for most of us over the age of 50, these trucks - especially the Cummins - will outlive us just with proper use of REGULAR products - and that extra stuff simply IS overkill.



Added to that, is the fact that the vast majority of owners - even the aggressive enthusiasts like me - will likely trade off their "jewel" long before any of the benefits of their longevity add-ons even BEGIN to take effect - and again, it will be the second and third owners who will benefit from all the extra $$$ and effort! :-laf

 

[amsoilman]

NATE SEZ:





I've come to realize that is pretty much the bottom line on this subject, and lots of others! My truck is lots more to me than mere transportation and an RV tow vehicle - it's my hotrod, custom, AND work vehicle...



It's my HOBBY! Oo.



Therefore, stuff other owners probably feel are overkill, unnecessary and boring, are the stuff that keeps ME actively interested in my truck, as well as this board.



Let's face it, for most of us over the age of 50, these trucks - especially the Cummins - will outlive us just with proper use of REGULAR products - and that extra stuff simply IS overkill.



Added to that, is the fact that the vast majority of owners - even the aggressive enthusiasts like me - will likely trade off their "jewel" long before any of the benefits of their longevity add-ons even BEGIN to take effect - and again, it will be the second and third owners who will benefit from all the extra $$$ and effort! :-laf

True story, Gary! I do like the fact that I am satisfied by doing what *I* do on my truck... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... plus it gives me piece of mind.



Wayne

amsoilman

 

[steved]

... ... plus it gives me piece of mind.



Wayne

amsoilman

I would have piece of mind to if I knew what I was doing was actually working... and that I was being supplied quality products doing what they claimed ...



steved

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

I would have piece of mind to if I knew what I was doing was actually working... and that I was being supplied quality products doing what they claimed ...



steved

Often we have to take claims of product excellence at face value, mixed in with LOTS of common sense and logic! Even then, there ARE ways most items CAN be analytically tested, then documented - perhaps not in a laboratory style, but one that is useful to all with decently open minds.



That has continually been my goal and the basis of many of the threads I have started on this board - many with as much applicable supporting data as I can provide, and lots of pictures as well.



Most of the time - and for many members here, my stuff has been welcomed, and sometimes, my efforts have ruffled the feathers of some of the boards "Sacred Cows" and their followers - as well as raising the blood pressure of some of the more ego-driven and abusive members here - but still, I enjoy having the time, pretty decent tools and equipment, and decent logic to lay out a test, then put the results in proper perspective.



Sometimes what I provide helps a few others - sometimes it only entertains - and for a few, it simply annoys!



That's life, and I wouldn't change my part of it for 'nothin! Oo. :-laf

 

[steved]

Often we have to take claims of product excellence at face value, mixed in with LOTS of common sense and logic! Even then, there ARE ways most items CAN be analytically tested, then documented - perhaps not in a laboratory style, but one that is useful to all with decently open minds.



That has continually been my goal and the basis of many of the threads I have started on this board - many with as much applicable supporting data as I can provide, and lots of pictures as well.



Most of the time - and for many members here, my stuff has been welcomed, and sometimes, my efforts have ruffled the feathers of some of the boards "Sacred Cows" and their followers - as well as raising the blood pressure of some of the more ego-driven and abusive members here - but still, I enjoy having the time, pretty decent tools and equipment, and decent logic to lay out a test, then put the results in proper perspective.



Sometimes what I provide helps a few others - sometimes it only entertains - and for a few, it simply annoys!



That's life, and I wouldn't change my part of it for 'nothin! Oo. :-laf

I appreciate what you add to every conversation Gary, my comment wasn't pointed at "bypass filters", but at "amsoil bypass filters"... and my personal experience with those filters...



I have no doubt that bypass filters work... just that some work better than others as seen in this thread alone. I guess my thoughts/feelings are that I didn't get what I paid for and that Amsoil's "improvement" in their bypass filter has actually lead to a consumer's opinion that it is inferior to the original...



I should have held out for that larger gulf coast canister... :{



steved

 

[amsoilman]

I appreciate what you add to every conversation Gary, my comment wasn't pointed at "bypass filters", but at "amsoil bypass filters"... and my personal experience with those filters...



I have no doubt that bypass filters work... just that some work better than others as seen in this thread alone. I guess my thoughts/feelings are that I didn't get what I paid for and that Amsoil's "improvement" in their bypass filter has actually lead to a consumer's opinion that it is inferior to the original...



I should have held out for that larger gulf coast canister... :{



steved

Steved,

NO matter what color the oil is, you can not tell its condition by the color!



I have actually seen NEW OIL taken from the shelf and LAB tested for Viscosity, and the Vicosity was NOT THE SAME AS WHAT WAS LABELD ON THE BOTTLE! It tested as a 10W-30 oil, and was made by LUCAS. It was labeled as a 10W-40 High Performance Motorcycle oil.





Wayne

amsoilman

 

[steved]

Steved,

NO matter what color the oil is, you can not tell its condition by the color!



I have actually seen NEW OIL taken from the shelf and LAB tested for Viscosity, and the Vicosity was NOT THE SAME AS WHAT WAS LABELD ON THE BOTTLE! It tested as a 10W-30 oil, and was made by LUCAS. It was labeled as a 10W-40 High Performance Motorcycle oil.





Wayne

amsoilman

While you cannot tell things like viscosity and chemical makeup based upon color, the human eye is very good at detecting clarity. And while not "calibrated", it can easily detect differences between two samples.



And not to beat a dead horse, but the BEs kept my oil VISUALLY cleaner than the EaBPs. I don't need analysis to tell me one is cleaner than the other as it was readily apparent IME. This isn't like splitting hairs... one was clear but dark in color and the other is black. End of story.



steved

 

[CumminsPower98]

I completely agree with this. Even though I sit in my truck day after day I still like the thing and love to tinker and make things better and do overkill type things. I also know it's my money maker right now so I like to do what I can to make sure it goes the distance. Since I live in this truck much of the time space is a premium so that's one reason I was concerned about carrying a lot of TP since I'm away from home 3 weeks to a month at a time many times. I know I could find room though if I end up doing this. I too was concerned about how loose paper towels are and all the other points about remote mounting and all that are also valid. I doubt I will go that rout. There is a strong chance that some time down the road I will go with a TP unit. Thanks for the input guys.

NATE SEZ:





I've come to realize that is pretty much the bottom line on this subject, and lots of others! My truck is lots more to me than mere transportation and an RV tow vehicle - it's my hotrod, custom, AND work vehicle...



It's my HOBBY! Oo.



Therefore, stuff other owners probably feel are overkill, unnecessary and boring, are the stuff that keeps ME actively interested in my truck, as well as this board.



Let's face it, for most of us over the age of 50, these trucks - especially the Cummins - will outlive us just with proper use of REGULAR products - and that extra stuff simply IS overkill.



Added to that, is the fact that the vast majority of owners - even the aggressive enthusiasts like me - will likely trade off their "jewel" long before any of the benefits of their longevity add-ons even BEGIN to take effect - and again, it will be the second and third owners who will benefit from all the extra $$$ and effort! :-laf

 

[Nate]

So I decided to change the filter/Frantz filter tonight. In the dark... cause I don't have a garage my truck can fit in.



Anyway, I pull the Frantz canister off and I realize the TP roll is stuck to the post, not in the canister. Of course by then, probably 1/2 quart of oil is all over the engine bay and ground. I got the roll off with some pliers... but I wasn't too happy about the mess.



I'm not sure why it stayed on the post. I'm guessing I didn't have the TP tight enough in the canister? It was the first roll I loaded in myself, so that's the only thing I can think of.



The one I put in, I had it tight enough that I had to twist the roll while pushing to get it in place.



Something I was wondering... I have the knob type clamp on mine. What is "tight" for this. I mean I can tighten it down until I about hit the end of the threads without trying too hard. I'm always worried I don't have it tight enough and it will start leaking doing down the road and I'll pump all the oil out of the engine. BUT, I don't want to overtighten is and ruin the rubber ring that the canister seals against.

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

So I decided to change the filter/Frantz filter tonight. In the dark... cause I don't have a garage my truck can fit in.



Anyway, I pull the Frantz canister off and I realize the TP roll is stuck to the post, not in the canister. Of course by then, probably 1/2 quart of oil is all over the engine bay and ground. I got the roll off with some pliers... but I wasn't too happy about the mess.

UMMMmmm - well, yeah - but try that same trick and change the STOCK oil or fuel filter outside in the dark, and see how it works out! :-laf :-laf



Yeah, I realize that was probably more an observation than a specific complaint at the Frantz, but ya gotta pick at least REASONABLY decent conditions to swap out the Frantz cartridge as you would any OTHER truck filter servicing...



YUP - sounds like either an unusual TP core fit to that center post, not the right choice of TP brand, or else a poor fit of TP into the canister. You also want to make sure the new TP cartridge isn't so tightly inserted into the canister that it crushes and deforms the inner core.



It's really not hard or complicated - and you'll get the hang of it - just choose the time and place a little more carefully next time. OH, and while the Frantz filter changes are USUALLY accomplished without mess - especially if the truck has been sitting for a while like overnight - it's still a good idea to place a shop rag around the base of the filter before removing a used canister for service.

 

[Nate]

Actually I changed the primary oil filter as well. Also did a chassis lube, brake adjustment, installed some new headlight bulbs, driver's side window trim (old one was rusted out), some new license plate bulbs... couple other things.



I'm guessing I didn't have the TP in the canister as tight as it needed to be. I guess I'll find out this next time I change it. I am using Scott 1000.



I wanted to wait overnight, or even when it was light out, but I was due a filter change about 400 miles ago, and I'm expecting to put another 700 miles this weekend, so I figured may as well do it now.

 

[Andersonville]

I just installed my Frantz a couple of days ago. I have the big black knob as well. USE THE THREAD SEALER GENEROUSLY AND RETIGHTEN EVERYTHING AFTER THE ENGINE/OIL IS WARM. I didn't have a major leak but I did have to retighten everything after it warmed up. With a 2006 I doubt my oil will ever be clear but it should be MUCH cleaner. Thanks Gary!! Grady/ WE4UT

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

Actually I changed the primary oil filter as well. Also did a chassis lube, brake adjustment, installed some new headlight bulbs, driver's side window trim (old one was rusted out), some new license plate bulbs... couple other things.

AH, the enthusiasm of youth! :-laf :-laf



I used to do that sort of thing too, but old age and better surroundings (a decent HEATED garage!) have made things lots easier - plus, being retired, I can more easily pick my times for doing the dirtier stuff!



Yeah, I dislike that dern knob setup too - on both of my filters, I'm using the older lever type - very repeatable in lockdown, and no wrestling matches or swearing sessions getting it all together!

 

[Nate]

Used to have a nice heated shop in Alaska, but Uncle Sam sent me to @$#@$@R@#$#@$ Idaho



The knob setup works fine, but it doesn't really tighten up enough to make me feel warm and fuzzy, yet from the looks of it, I've been overtightening it.



I am just so afraid of anything in the system letting loose and the engine pump itself dry before I notice.

 

[CFAR]

Just a note, don't remember if someone else posted it or not, but the round fuel filter o-ring is about the right size to replace the square one in an emergency.



Curious if someone has done this.

 

[Nate]

Well I changed the Frantz filter again this morning and once AGAIN the toilet paper stayed on the holder and not in the canister like it should have.



It didn't make a huge mess since it was about 20* and the oil was pretty thick, but it did make enough of a mess.



I have no idea what I'm doing wrong, but I was pretty angry and came darn close to ripping that thing out and throwing it in the trash can!



I know I put the TP tight. I had to twist it to get it in even.



I was trying to figure out a way to retain the TP in the canister, but nothing came to mind.

 

[MLee]

It sounds like the retaining spring might be loose, and not holding the roll in the cover. Have you tried putting a bit of a twist on the cover as you start to pull it up?? to help break it loose? Just a thought.

Marv.



Has anyone run across the single Scotts 1000 rolls??? Scotts is introducing a new and improved, softer tissue, and the stores here in SLC are not stocking the single rolls any more. Just a heads up, if you use the Scotts, you might want to stock up.

 

[Nate]

Which retaining spring would that be? There's a thick wire that I thought was to pull the TP out of the canister, that the one?



I haven't seen Scotts in the single rolls. I just buy the 12 pack.